Tiger SPY Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 as i bought the car from the guy that built her and did the webpage. regards stan. Jesus! Is he in prison now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartMackay Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Right direction for what?It'll sit quite happily on Westfield Pinto mounts, the gearbox will fit, and you won't have any clearance issues. How wide is your gearbox tunnel at the engine bay? If you have a 14" wide tunnel you may be able to move the engine rearwards a bit moe than usual which may halp with weight distribution issues, although mine's pretty good with the engine in the "standard" position. Moving the engine around may also require a shorter prop so it's not as simple as it sounds... For the exhaust, IMHO you need to have a bespoke bonnet exit manifold made. Stuart will tell you what a god idea this is, won't you Stuart Perhaps Stuart could tell us what he's done for a rad 'cos I have a bespoke (IE expensive) ally rad in mine which I bought from another club member. I suspect the thicker of the Polo rads would work well, but I wouldn't like to say for definite 'cos I've never tried one.... The rest should be pretty straight forward... Sorry for delay, wasnt paying attention, Blatters!! My engine sits on the standard pinto mounts, although we did raise the engine slightly at the front to get it all level. Brian Hill made me a bespoke remote utilising an extended standard type 9 remote, and this has transformed the shift quality compared to the original equipment westfield remote. The heavy duty, CR type 9 he made for me is nothing short of superb. My Rad is standard westfield OHC rad, I thought (bought all the bits) about replacing with polo cos I was getting high indicated temperatures which turned out to be an incompatible, non VDO temp sender, replaced original Ford sender with VDO one and it now runs at around 85 ish degrees indicated. Havent had a chance to RR it yet, although planned in Spring when I re tax it. On the Scholar engine dyno it was producing around 200 bhp @ 7000, 170 ft/lbs at 5000 when first built, although the jetting was not correct and I am running a relatively low (road) CR of 10:1. I would expect this figure to improve by 5-10 % after running in and optimising jetting/ignition on the rollers. As Blatters says, I am most pleased with the exhaust system made by Concept Engineering of Wymondham...It is so quiet.... A through the side affair would be most complicated to miss alternator and steering column, and the bonnet exit not only looks good IMO, but is excellent from the accessibilty, decent/consistent primary exhaust lengths and maintenance/removal standpoints. Here are some pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I've gotta say, I *love* that exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scruffythefirst Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Concept engineering eh? Thats marginaly closer to me than hayward and scott and in the right direction for emerald. Any webpage available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartMackay Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Thanks Blatters, Steve Harris is an artist in metal, No website I believe, Scruffy (and TBH he doesnt need it, he is so busy with work from the racing crowd) ...Steve is ex Lotus F1 fabricator and now produces the Global GT Light chassis for Dr Palmer, certainly knows his onions when it comes to impeccable fabrication, really helpful guy too. Concept Engineering & Fabrication 01953 601954 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Elworthy Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Had planned on running without verniers. Cosworth just used to remove the cam keyways and time up, with no problems. Not on production engines we didn't. For info, no need to run with oil squirt jets on a non-turbo car, they're only there for cooling not lube. No problem, no wear, no skirt scuffing. Mine is dry sumped so only way I could ever run oil squirt is to use a YBP (MY94 Escort) Block and scollop the pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markboyce Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Another plug for Steve at Concept. Top bloke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juansolo Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 2.1 Pintworth here: L1/L1 at the top, solid lifters, usual stuff, twin 45DCOE with Alpha 3D ignition. Pinto block, V6 pocketed pistons, Pinto rods and crank. Should have really fitted steel rods to bullet proof it, but they it's been running for over two years of pure track use with no issues... *touches wood* Pace dry sump and pump, hardmounted to the chassis of an SE and it's an incredibly tight fit in all directions. Mated to a Type9 5 speed SCCR Quaife clubman box. All fitting and rebuild work carried out by Paul and Plays-Kool, jetting by carb god Dave Bogg and Alpha mapping by Dennis Vassey. I had initially thought that all Cossies have a flat spot around 3-4krpm as mine had had it pre and post rebuild and I'd heard of others with it. Boggy however managed to get rid of it and now it just pulls like a train, period. It's not even that cammy as low down it's pretty good, over 4k though it's ballistic and it tears up to the redline (set at 7k due to the Pinto bits in the bottom). FWIW it's around around 180bhp at the wheels which should equate to a realistic 200bhp (I wasn't really bothered about the actual figures as long as it was running right so no proper coast down tests were done). The cars all up weight is 565kgs full of fluids. FWIW if I was doing it from scratch, I wouldn't bother. It's an incredibly expensive engine to get this sort of power from these days. However, for me it came with the car, and though it needed some serious work to realise it's potential (prompted by me blowing it up) it's been well worth it and the engine adds so much to the character of the car. Also because all the expensive head work had already been done and the head was undamaged (bottom end didn't fare quite so well), for me it was actually cheaper to rebuild it than transplant an XE. Today, starting from scratch I'd do a Donkey and drop an S2k in one. 240bhp from a stock engine that can be picked up for peanuts in £ per bhp terms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juansolo Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Additionally any cooling issues? Mine's got a biiig rad, but you should be ok with a golf rad. Temps on mine are absolutely solid at 90 degrees. Once it's up to temperature it doesn't move. Probably runs a little cooler on the road. I've got some pictures at home. I'll post them up tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Hello Juan. Long time no see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godsy1969 Posted March 7, 2006 Author Share Posted March 7, 2006 Had planned on running without verniers. Cosworth just used to remove the cam keyways and time up, with no problems. Not on production engines we didn't. For info, no need to run with oil squirt jets on a non-turbo car, they're only there for cooling not lube. No problem, no wear, no skirt scuffing. Mine is dry sumped so only way I could ever run oil squirt is to use a YBP (MY94 Escort) Block and scollop the pistons. You may not of on production engines but on development engines it was left out and run fine on numerous occassions . The addition of squirt jets on an N/A engine does always draw some conflict with arguments for and against. Against is that the jets increase the demands on the oil pump thus increasing engine friction slightly. For, reduces piston temp and reduces the risk of detonation on high performance engines. I had my 205 block machined to YBP drawings to accept the standard YBP jets. My Accralites only needed a little fettle to not clash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juansolo Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Hello Juan. Long time no see. Hail! I still pop in from time to time, just not so active on the postage these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Keene Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Had planned on running without verniers. Cosworth just used to remove the cam keyways and time up, with no problems. Not on production engines we didn't. For info, no need to run with oil squirt jets on a non-turbo car, they're only there for cooling not lube. No problem, no wear, no skirt scuffing. Mine is dry sumped so only way I could ever run oil squirt is to use a YBP (MY94 Escort) Block and scollop the pistons. You may not of on production engines but on development engines it was left out and run fine on numerous occassions . Chris may know something you don't. I'm not saying because he amy not want it common knowledge, but he knows a *lot* of the YB and all its variants... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juansolo Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Piccage: Engine 1 Engine 2 Zorst No rad 1 No rad 2 Just to give you an idea how tight it all is in here... (bear in mind that the bell housing is as far back as it will go without hacking the chassis up, and the bits cut out of the chassis rail have metal welded into them. Also that it's hard mounted so it can't move, which brings it's own problems...) Clearances 1 Clearances 2 Clearances 3 My favourite picture of the car: Sans lights and avec ickle mirrors Finally a pic of my baby as it is now: Avec ickle lights and big mirrors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 You *need* a Charade alternator on that... Always nice to see the PPE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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