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Cossie power


godsy1969

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Chokes are 42mm.  Where did you get your sump from, is it original kit or modified RS.  I have a flywheel and clutch, RS ally bellhousing setup awaiting a type 9, i went this route mainly down to cost.  I know the speed kills the box, so I'm not to sure where to put the rev limiter settings, the engine is built for 9000 rpm but I could do with knowing the limits of the box as it'll no doubt disintegrate at this kind of speed.
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In my SEiW, I am using westfield pinto alloy sump, had an RS2 one,but got fed up rewelding it due to hitting the ground. BGH supplied me with an alloy bellhousing (£200) and a heavy duty close ratio type 9 with modified remote and this has proven absolutely faultless  :t-up:  :t-up:

Dont worry about the tractability with your cams...they are not that wild, you will have bags more torque if you time them correctly over a standard road engine. As I said previously mine pulls like a train and for normal road driving (2-3500) its absolutely fine, they have a nice sound from the webers at 2-2500 rpm which gets you noticed and its only from 4000-7500 when all hell breaks loose and it becomes a theme park ride.

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What pistons are you using?

With L1/BD3, I expect to see power running out at 7000/7500rpm so no point in revving above that, and it's revs that will kill a type 9. I think you should just about be OK, but do try to avoid rushing the synchros, and make sure you fit the correct grade of oil. I use Red Line MTL from Fluke Motorsport.

42mm chokes will see you with pretty slow airspeeds through the carbs, so you will need to play with cam timing to get the power band as wide as possible. Verniers for the cams are a must. You may find you need to set the tickover to 1000rpm to avoid stalling when coming to a stop.

My sump is a genuine ex RS500 rally car works sump. When I bought my engine, my then girlfriend was P.A to Stuart Turner, head of Ford Motorsport, so I was able to source some proper works bits :cool:

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I think he said accralites, Blatters...
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*Checks page 1*

:oops:

I'd expect to see 240bhp or thereabouts from that set up then.

You had yours on the rollers yet Stuart?

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Had planned on running without verniers.  Cosworth just used to remove the cam keyways and time up, with no problems.  Sounds a bit dicy initially but the keyway is not meant to be in shear it is just to locate the correct cam timing. The clamping force provided by the sprocket bolt holds the sprocket to the cam, the keyway is not needed - it just allows the correct timing to be found easily during build.  After all, vernier pulleys have bolts holding the outer sprocket to the inner, so there is no greater risk - unless you don't tighten the single bolt enough on the std. arrangement.  Benefits are the pulley is steel and is free with the engine!  Maybe not quite as pretty or easy to adjust, but functionally the way to go?  Anyone got got timing figures available, how does 106/106 sound.
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IIRC, they're 108/108...

Do check though 'cos I've been known to make mistakes :0

I kept the keyway 'cos I'd prefer to clamp up on a taper. But as you say, the verniers are held purely by clamping, so maybe I'm just being a p**f...

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Guys any chance of any install photos during build to point me in the right direction.

Additionally any cooling issues????

you've been a great help already Its nice to chat with someone who's running the same engine.  I go through phases of project gloom but finding this forum has re-installed some motivation in me.  Anyone know where I can find a money tree? :)

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Right direction for what?

It'll sit quite happily on Westfield Pinto mounts, the gearbox will fit, and you won't have any clearance issues. How wide is your gearbox tunnel at the engine bay? If you have a 14" wide tunnel you may be able to move the engine rearwards a bit moe than usual which may halp with weight distribution issues, although mine's pretty good with the engine in the "standard" position. Moving the engine around may also require a shorter prop so it's not as simple as it sounds...

For the exhaust, IMHO you need to have a bespoke bonnet exit manifold made. Stuart will tell you what a god idea this is, won't you Stuart ;)

Perhaps Stuart could tell us what he's done for a rad 'cos I have a bespoke (IE expensive) ally rad in mine which I bought from another club member. I suspect the thicker of the Polo rads would work well, but I wouldn't like to say for definite 'cos I've never tried one....

The rest should be pretty straight forward...

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ive got some new un-used westy/pinto engine mountings if it helps

Sounds tempting, need those, how much do you want for them?

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Just to clarify , the webpage does not belong to me as i bought the car from the guy that built her and did the webpage. regards stan.
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