Dash board fixing

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Yeah, it’s from the Sport Turbo, not a great image, but you can just see it here from the back, where it wraps around the rad and the inter cooler pipes. (I also spotted once Bug Mans other photos downloaded that it seems to have a moulded recess in it to clear the Sport Turbos tow hook, on the rear lower edge, to one side).

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

This is one of those “debates” I’ve often had with the factory in the past. There internal parts lists are full of handy little “extras”, just like this, and even the old Aerorace ducting, that unless you happen to see them in a car while visiting the factory, most people have no idea about. 

The Sport Turbo especially, has all sorts of little detail parts that I’m sure would be handy in other builds, they just don’t seem to be listed or shown any ware publicly!

[BugMan]

Have to say in my experience of WF, there are so many areas where they could vastly improve, and I'm sure I'm not alone in this.

Not pointing any fingers of blame at anybody individually inside of WF, but I'm now 3 weeks waiting pipework for my 250 and missing bits, have no diagrams on how its now suppose to be connected officially as mine seems to be a new lay-out (filter at the front of the engine bay), and if it was not for this forum I just can't see how any new comer would stand any chance of assembly.

Having to rely on other builders on many issues seems to be a shotsited business model from WF

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

1 hour ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

I’ve not tried Evostick for trim, so this might be irrelevant!

Of you use a good upholstery type contact adhesive, (from Car Builder Solutions, or wherever) and get the high temperature  version, it won’t peel away in the summer sun the way regular stuff does. But more importantly, it can be cleaned off either when applying or (on a solid substrate, like GRP or metal), years later, by use of WD40!

The more dried out and set it is, the more you need to soak old contact adhesive deposits in WD40, but it will eventually remove all traces.

That's really useful to know. Yet more of my pension to spend on the car. Sure that adhesive will be useful in the house as well though, "honest dear" 

1 hour ago, BugMan said:

Ok, no mounting holes in the dash - Ug

That's a bit of a b----r! Try seeing if you've got predrilled holes for the Aim dash, or is that going to be DIY as well? I expect you know, but be careful drilling through the padded leather cloth, the foam padding wraps around the drill bit, and before you know it all the padding is around your bit, rather than on the dash! Don't ask how I know 

Not sure if you're aware, but there are (on mine anyway, but who knows!) some upstands Screwed into the M4 mounting holes on the rear of the Aim dash. These need to be removed to allow the Aim dash to sit back against the front face of the main dash.

This is them

The character building continues 

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

That rad ducting looks interesting! Sure you're up to it, but could be interesting lining that lot up 

Probably me being a pessimist, but yet more weight on the poor little rad/intercooler mounts, or have they been beefed up accordingly I wonder?

[Thrustyjust]

12 minutes ago, BugMan said:

Have to say in my experience of WF, there are so many areas where they could vastly improve, and I'm sure I'm not alone in this.

Not pointing any fingers of blame at anybody individually inside of WF, but I'm now 3 weeks waiting pipework for my 250 and missing bits, have no diagrams on how its now suppose to be connected officially as mine seems to be a new lay-out (filter at the front of the engine bay), and if it was not for this forum I just can't see how any new comer would stand any chance of assembly.

Having to rely on other builders on many issues seems to be a shotsited business model from WF

Thats a problem thats been around for a long time. I dont believe the upper management show any interest in making that change either. The basics are a comprehensive build manual for every part , so it can be built with the minimum of factory time. There is a logic there and a glimmer of common sense. 

You have paid a lot of money for the kit and the time you have waited in the same way I have the diff brackets is unacceptable. I dont think this kit car building seems to be a business priority in recent years for them. 

[BugMan]

I suspect they have changed the panel used for the dash now on the Sport 250, as it looks to me like this is destined for the AIM digital dash.

Had to trim out the vinyl padding around the hole  as its an exact fit for the AIM.  Yep AdgeC I spotted the pre-drilled holes in the dash, and removed the spacing out mountings from the AIM. 

I used a scalpel with a long thin narrow blade, pushed through from the back into a sanding sponge to cut out the 4 mounting holes and then mounted the AIM with some flared m4 plated bolts.

 

When this is then offered up to the scuttle and its crash pad it looks like it might clear, but I don't know until I get my fixing bits from Amazon, as I'm not drilling anything until I can work out if what I have ordered will work

[SootySport]

I used the M4 machine screws and spire clips to fix my carbon dash to the scuttle.  One thing I did find out, is the screws did unscrew themselves over a period of months due to vibration.   This was cured by buying a packet of M4 black plastic washers from Ebay, a simple and effective cure.

Something like this.    Hope you 250 is soon on the road, it's a fabulous Westfield

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

Dash Looking good. Respectful suggestion, try slipping the steering wheel on, just to be sure everything clears, you're probably ahead of me though.

Wise to get all your fixings before drilling everything IMHO.

[BugMan]

Have noticed the steering wheel, when on is NOT parallel with the dash ATM any other builders seen this?

So have decided to work on the heater and windscreen wiper fixings for now.

I may have to move the hole in the dash sideways a little, but have decided that i'll wait to get the dash mounted before I look at that again.  Think it's the bottom steering column mount that needs to move as well, which might help a bit with UJ clearance on the exhaust.

Thanks for looking everybody

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

My wheels not square with the car either. Feature of the design????

Keep up the good progress.

[Thrustyjust]

Think of the angle the column goes from the rack to the dash. Its a foible of design.

[BugMan]

OMG, so its not just me

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

It’s supposed to be offset. It’s part of the throwback to two piece steering columns; the offset is then to try and ensure the upper column doesn’t come straight at you, but pushes sideways in the event of a major frontal impact. 

Now many of us have three piece steering columns, it’s not really relevant anymore. But there you go.