Garage DIY help needed

[Steve (sdh2903)]

Interested to see what you go with flooring wise. I'd like to tile mine with the interlocking tiles at some point.

[Rory's Dad]

What's wrong with up 'n over doors chaps? I have 2 to replace and it just seems a simple fix to put the new ones onto the timber frame. Are the sectional or roller doors more secure, better insulated or what?

Looking forward to your replies.

[Steve (sdh2903)]

I just have an irrational dislike of up and over doors. Probably stems from one of the springs on my old door trying to take my fingers off. I also have a full wall of storage cupboards which I wouldn't have been able to have with an up and over door.

Not just for the posing but it's great to open the door with the remote and just drive straight in.

The cost wise. I could either have a good quality up and over supplied and fitted or get the electric roller and fit myself for less than £100 more.

[Thrustyjust]

My up and overs are 32 years old. The Chamberlain electric kits are tiring, the frame posts are rotten and the doors dont fit well from build. I have tweaked them to fit better, but the doors are splitting on the pivot points and to be honest 'up and over' is ' over and out' these days. It will free up more space for shelving with a roller , it will seal the garage better for the winter, as although I have rubber on the edges, we still get rain coming in. We use our garage door more than the front door and we are in and out about 20 times a day. 

[Man On The Clapham Omnibus]

I had two up and overs with one electric and one manual. The uprights were rotten near the bottom where the springs attached. I was afraid they could break free and do some serious injury so I had a couple of Secureoglide Compacts fitted for £1,500 each. They claim to be insulated but they're thin like any roller shutter so the insulation value is negligible. They are pretty draught proof though if you set them to shut just so with the top of the curtain touching the draught strip on the outer fascia. I had to have rollers rather than the superior (IMO) sectional ones due to lack of headroom and a beam across where the sections would have been when open. If you have the ability I would definitely look at sectional: they're much thicker and likely to be warmer and more secure. This was about three years ago and the only problem I have had is a failed safety edge module which was replaced under warranty. 

The top picture is the finished doors, and the lower one shows the problem I had with headroom and the beam.

[Northwarks]

My up and over was a hardwood door and after 25years or so broke a number of times but when the coil spring broke I decided to go for a roller shutter, mines a challenge as I don't have an internal door. I'm pretty good at DIY but decided after watching someone in the street doing his own then looked at the amount of hassle he had I decided to pay for someone else to do it and take all the rubbish away. In reality buying direct from the supplier and paying a company to supply and fit was £270 extra which I thought wasn't bad for doing it an afternoon and taking all the rubbish away.

I miss 3 things having a roller shutter:

1 - Hitting my head  

2 - Having a  bit of cover when its raining

3 - The wind blowing the door down on my car

 

[Man On The Clapham Omnibus]

I agree about the weather shield effect of an up and over - if it's the Westland/Garador type. Other types such as I had disappear inside entirely so don't offer anything in the way of a canopy. Headbanging is an important part of owning and maintaining a Westfield surely? Along with knuckle barking, finger lacerating, hand burning, and brain frying.

[Thrustyjust]

The shower cover of the up and over is the only real loss. I said to the latest wife, I can cure it, but extending the garage another 3 ft forward !! I cant type her answer to that !

[Man On The Clapham Omnibus]

[neptune]

On 26/07/2017 at 23:26, Thrustyjust said:

So, time to do some DIY . I have flattened the garage ceiling today and am painting tomorrow with Polycell Crack free ceiling paint, which leaves a matt white finish, but what is the best paint for the walls ? I have painted them previously with cheapo emulsion and they have started to yellow weirdly for a non oil paint. Think I may have glossed them even longer ago and thats creeping through. So, do I paint it again with white emulsion or something else ? 

Also, am looking at a pair of roller shutter doors,so can anyone recommend anyone to supply and install in the south ? 

Want to be warmer in the garage Westie tinkering this winter and less rain and wind coming in to e garage !! 

Roller shutter doors are not good for heat retention as they can only seal on 3 sides . The roll at the top cannot seal to the aperture. I fitted garage doors for years and insulated sectional doors are by far the best choice for heat retention. We could take hats & coats off after only a few minutes of fitting the panels in the depth of winter  as the seal around all 4 edges is so good.  Buy Hormann or garadoor ( english brand owned by Hormann).  Visit www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.uk. 

[pistonbroke]

Built my garage 40 years ago , Can't remember the manufacturers name of up & over doors fitted but the company was part owned by none other than ex footy player and TV personality Jimmy Greaves .  

Still going strong , they have outlasted the "boss" by a good few years 

[Thrustyjust]

50 minutes ago, neptune said:

Roller shutter doors are not good for heat retention as they can only seal on 3 sides . The roll at the top cannot seal to the aperture. I fitted garage doors for years and insulated sectional doors are by far the best choice for heat retention. We could take hats & coats off after only a few minutes of fitting the panels in the depth of winter  as the seal around all 4 edges is so good.  Buy Hormann or garadoor ( english brand owned by Hormann).  Visit www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.uk. 

Cheers Neptune for your advice. I have looked at your link and I need to call them to get a cost. I did find a place on line that was local and costing a Hormann S ribbed sectional door with electrics ( not stated what I get with that though !) was £1697 each . I will have a look at my neighbours roller door this weekend and see what you mean about sealing. My only thought about the sectional is the frame that is required in the ceiling to support it and space it may take up.

[Andy (Sycho)]

My frame does take a bit of space but I still use the space above it, I don't have any drafts & from what I've seen far superior security wise than a roller shutter.

 

 

[neptune]

14 hours ago, Thrustyjust said:

Cheers Neptune for your advice. I have looked at your link and I need to call them to get a cost. I did find a place on line that was local and costing a Hormann S ribbed sectional door with electrics ( not stated what I get with that though !) was £1697 each . I will have a look at my neighbours roller door this weekend and see what you mean about sealing. My only thought about the sectional is the frame that is required in the ceiling to support it and space it may take up.

When the roller is up look up between the lintel and the door roll the gap is then more obvious. It does decrease as the door closes but thrre's still a big enough gap to let a howling gale through. If you have bedrooms above your garage sectionals will make the rooms much warmer too.

 

As far as cost,  You built a westfield , so diy fit is well within your capabilities. They really are very straight forward. 

 

Great pic from sycho and as he rightly says sectional doors are way more secure than most rollers, 

[Kit Car Electronics]

I would have liked a sectional door to replace an up-and-over, but didn't want to keep room for the tracks. I went for an insulated roller with a box, and still find it a massive improvement in terms of sealing, since the top slat pushes out flat when the door fully closed. Maybe I got lucky?