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MX-5 Newbie


lewis

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You've possibly already stumbled across a few of these threads but just in case you haven't here's a few links you may find helpful :)

First up, a quick guide to a few of the minor errors and omissions in the build manual that could help save you from running into a few problems.

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/98062-updating-the-mazda-sdv-build-manual/?p=1000978

I'd personally recommend not fitting the carbon canister from the MX5 and this will explain what changes are needed.

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/101650-mazda-sdv-q6-evap-canister-problem/?p=1051032

Gary has already mentioned about the coolant re-route which is a good idea as it helps achieve more even cylinder temperatures

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/76140-coolant-re-route-problems-mx5-engine/?p=758815

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/105177-another-mx5-coolant-reroute-question/?p=1095407

And finally a quick guide on fitting an induction filter rather to replace the standard airbox

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/105258-mazda-sdv-induction-kit/?p=1096350

If you decide you like the idea of the flat dash rather than the moulded dashboard with the MX5 clocks, drop me a PM with you email address and I'll forward you a copy of the latest wiring guide :)

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Looks like a new ECU is a good start. Is there much difference between the Omex and the Megasquirt one that BLiNK supply in the 160 package? And a new oil pump is only £168 so could be something to investigate.

 

 

I have been following that thread with interest, the 160 package option looks very tempting  :)

I'm sure the MS and omex are pretty much the same inside. The MS will be relatively plug and play with the mazda loom. Omex will be custom but does mean you can make a tidier job of the wiring. Many tuners are very familiar will omex but I would ask your local tuner what they specialise in.

The 160 is very very good value for money. The extra circa 30 bhp makes a massive difference. You could do the standalone ecu during the build and then do the head and cams at a later date. Blink will split the package. That's what I did but I did end up ordering the head between iva and getting my plates :d

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There is talk of an OMEX/TB upgrade for 1.6 and 1.8 cars through Westfield - I've offered mine up as a prototype but I'm still waiting to hear from the factory if/when this is happening. I think there will be a number of power upgrade options in the future.

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Are you planning on re-using the Mazda clocks, or fitting a flat dash?

 

I have just upgraded my flat dash from vinyl to carbon fibre. I prefer the look of the flat dash although others have succesfully used the mazda clocks. We can help you with changing the wiring if you go flat dash route as smokeymow has written an excellent guide for this

 

 

I really love the look of your new dash, especially the light up buttons. Is all of that IVA compliant? At the moment I am planning on fitting the curvy dash and was going to upgrade to flat later on. Or is it something that's better to do from the start?

 

Absolutely, definitely follow this advice. My donor car already had the interior stripped for racing and now I have to slllloooly figure out what the various bits were for. Unlabeled headrest speaker connectors take far too much time to figure out.

Dan

 

That's the problem I have. I got the donor car for £300 (MOT failed because of rusting) but to get it for that price I gave him the list of what I needed and told him to take whats not on it so there was a lot of random connectors inside the car. I've labeled up their location but that's the best I can do. If it gets hard then I have another 1995 MX-5 that my dad has so can always go poking around that to see what goes where. 

 

I'm sure the MS and omex are pretty much the same inside. The MS will be relatively plug and play with the mazda loom. Omex will be custom but does mean you can make a tidier job of the wiring. Many tuners are very familiar will omex but I would ask your local tuner what they specialise in.

The 160 is very very good value for money. The extra circa 30 bhp makes a massive difference. You could do the standalone ecu during the build and then do the head and cams at a later date. Blink will split the package. That's what I did but I did end up ordering the head between iva and getting my plates :d

 

Splitting the package is a good idea. My friends are trying to get me to fit an Eaton M45 supercharger to it like some of the guys on MX5Nutz (some of the "kits" people sell with all parts needed are as low as £650!)

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I really love the look of your new dash, especially the light up buttons. Is all of that IVA compliant? At the moment I am planning on fitting the curvy dash and was going to upgrade to flat later on. Or is it something that's better to do from the start?

 

 

That's the problem I have. I got the donor car for £300 (MOT failed because of rusting) but to get it for that price I gave him the list of what I needed and told him to take whats not on it so there was a lot of random connectors inside the car. I've labeled up their location but that's the best I can do. If it gets hard then I have another 1995 MX-5 that my dad has so can always go poking around that to see what goes where. 

 

 

Splitting the package is a good idea. My friends are trying to get me to fit an Eaton M45 supercharger to it like some of the guys on MX5Nutz (some of the "kits" people sell with all parts needed are as low as £650!)

 

My new dash would still be IVA compliant as far as I can see.

Re-using the Mazda clocks means cutting a big hole in your scuttle, and if you are planning on going flat dash later you would need to buy a new scuttle as well. Personally I would go flat dash from the start if that is what you want later on anyway.

 

I spent a bit of time researching the M45 charger before taking the BLiNK package and staying N/A. You will not get a M45 under the bonnet on the exhaust side (usual MX5 position) without a cut out in the bonnet, which IMO looks unsightly. £650 might get you the bits, but you still need management and mapping on top of that

You can get a coldside kit that replaces the existing inlet manifold, but you are looking at $4000 imported from USA for that

 

This is a 1.6 engine (slightly smaller dimension wise than ours)

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/90534-kugawesties-mx5-sdv-build-thread-now-an-upgrade-thread/?p=983400

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Absolutely, definitely follow this advice. My donor car already had the interior stripped for racing and now I have to slllloooly figure out what the various bits were for. Unlabeled headrest speaker connectors take far too much time to figure out.

Dan

 

Have you got wiring diagrams for the Mazda loom? It helps immensely when stripping down

 

If you know the manufactured year for the car, you can obtain these easily  ;)

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Hello and welcome! I've just collected my Madza kit this week so if there is anything you need to know just ask!

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Welcome Lewis, it seems the MX5 kit is the most is the most popular at the mo.

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I have those wiring diagrams too, but most of the time I refer to the Mazda factory diagrams published for the dealership mechanics. It's the one with the orange cover. Got mine for $20. on eBay. Like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-MAZDA-MX-5-MIATA-1997-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-5387-10-96G-9999-95-026G-97-/190980882591?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item2c7759009f

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Hello and welcome! I've just collected my Madza kit this week so if there is anything you need to know just ask!

 

It's good to know someone will be a few steps ahead of me. What options have you gone for?

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Just a quick question... does the Westfield use the MX-5 engine mounts or do Westfield supply new ones?

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Just a quick question... does the Westfield use the MX-5 engine mounts or do Westfield supply new ones?

Westfield supply new mounting brackets and rubbers and rubber mounts for the gearbox. Some have chosen to fit stiffer gearbox rubbers to minimise lateral movement and the potential for the propshaft to hit the handbrake bolts. It's a tight squeeze!

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You will also probably have to redrill the chassis for the engine mounts, especially on the 1.8 engine

SAM_0266.jpg

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