darve Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 yes good idea. pete and I spoke about that earlierin the week. just dont take off im putting the carpets and seats back in and will look at the rear brakes tomorrow at some point. all a bit dimoralising so time to walk away and come back to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westford Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 I may be talking total cr*p as I know nothing about the Mazda SDV, but are you sure that you haven't run out of adjustment on the rear calipers? I would assume that the handbrake mechanism has some sort of self adjusters to allow for brake wear, if so, are they adjusting correctly? I can imagine a senerio where the levers are at full pull and bottomed so that they can't put any more force on the pads. As I say maybe total nonsense, but we need you to get that certificate! Westford Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 That's what I'm thinking. Just an aside, the bright bracket in front of the lever has only one screw, is this not flexing. Dave, when you pull the lever full on is the cable very tight or does it still have some movement? It's very difficult to diagnose the problem from a distance but I get a feeling (!) that the handbrake is full on but the cable isn't at full tension. If you tighten the adjuster just behind the lever can you get the rear brakes to come on? If so what happens if you take all the slack out of the cable (with lever fully down) until the rear brakes start to bind. Then slacken of a turn or two to stop the binding. I know I may be stating the obvious but, as I say, it's difficult without being there. If you can get the handbrake lever to pull up as tight as you can pull it up and it is about half way it's full travel then change the rear pads. However if the lever is coming all the way up then there is something wrong with the mechanism or adjusters. Again, sorry if I'm teaching granny, only trying to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 the lever where the handbrake cable joins the caliper has loads of free movement to go unfortunately. norm - there is absolutely no flex in the brackets and now none in the mechanism. the lever its as far up as it will go after three clicks and that's pulling it really hard. no flex at that point. literally rock solid. the pads start to bind after 1 click but when at 3 I can just about push the car forward therefore it must be the pads/discs or calipers. will have to have them apart to take a look. is it 140 hours Westfield quote to build the whole car. I reckon I'll spend that just sorting out the iva fail points the guru is coming over in the morning so I'll pick his brains Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Dave, my advice it to fit OEM Mazda rear pads. Give them a light rub with the sandpaper to take the manufacturing glaze off. Also clean the disc with alcohol or acetate, just in case there's a residue of oil on them. I cannot see how the caliper can be at fault if the pads are making contact with the disk when handbrake is applied. It must be the face of the pad at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 It must be the face of the pad at fault. agreed have shut up the garage for tonight as was getting hacked off. early finish for me. normally out there til midnight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 I bet I never cleaned the protective grease off the discs and that's fudged all the brake related stuff up ho hum live and learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 In that case just clean disc and pads with acetate and rub down the surface of the pad with sandpaper. However, I'm not sure. If that was the case the fronts would have better stopping than the rears and, if I got this correct, they were the same. You should be able to tell, look at the surface of the pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westford Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 I've just been thinking about this and I have come to the conclusion it has to be somewhere in the handbrake mechanism. If it where down to the friction and you can push the car with the handbrake on, then the fronts must have been non existent to be worse than the rears. As I type this I see that Norm has said something very similar......! Westford Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 fronts were better than the rears but not enough. overall the whole system appeared less effective than expected due to the pedal pressure required on the test to lock the fonts and also lock the rears. much higher for mine than Mark's. as pistol pete pointed out earlier, i reckon I never cleaned the discs and have contaminated all the pads will have them out by tomorrow evening to take a look. watch this space Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Westford, Dave has said that the new pads have made a huge difference. So it is possible that both were very poor. If the front EBC pads were so bad the rears will be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westford Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 I get it, but if you can lock the rears under braking then I would have thought that there can't be too much wrong with the friction faces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XTR2Turbo Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 If you get oil in the pads it does take a lot of heat to burn it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Dave, thinking about this overnight, I'm not sure you do have oil on the pads. The photo of the front pad doesn't look contaminated. As above, clean the disks and fit mazda pads to the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 is it 140 hours Westfield quote to build the whole car. I reckon I'll spend that just sorting out the iva fail points That build time is a joke! I was told by the factory 120 hrs and I reckon I was about 400, but I am a bit of a slowcoach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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