Westford Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 not really worried about that fail as he said I can adjust at the retest if needed. Just be careful with that statement! Alot of headlamps have their lenses locked into a certain position and therefore "Just adjusting it at the retest" may or may not be a straightforward task. I would personally check this out before the retest! Westford Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 About yer headlights Dave, are they sided? If so make sure you have the 2 lamp units the right way round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 both have the kick up in the wrong direction. both sides are the same. Tester said they are set up for the EU. I had the lens off at the centre and you can turn it be however many degrees you like. tester said i need to rotate the lense 5 degrees (can't remember which way but have noted it down). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 dave I dug out my 4 gas analyser but its coming up with low flow filter blocked. I need to sort it out before I can lend it to you sorry. im not sure if I can fix it yet .trying to find a spare parts supplier. regards pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 No worries Pete - hopefully the MOT station will go fine on Saturday Thanks for looking for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonjh1964 Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Darve, I had a similar problem with one of my headlights and it was the bulb details at http://2js-westfield-build.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/13-september-2012-head-lights-problem.html . Quick to check once you've taken out the bulb. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 thanks Jon - I'll have a look at that when I have them apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 so spent some time on the front brakes this evening - only done the passenger side - drivers side tomorrow took the caliper off to first check the piston is moving freely. push down on the pedal and the piston comes out. can then push the piston back in with a couple of squeezes with one of those clamps where you squeeze the handle together. Norm - piston OK? pic for the hell of it - before pushing the piston back in whipped the pads out to take a look at them - was a fair bit of dust on them - is that to be expected? Bedding surface does appear to be worn off The pads and the clips were a little tight so the pads were a little tight to move freely. determined this was because of the layer of paint on the bracket so filed that off. bit of copper slip on the metal clips and the end of the pad tabs and they now slide around very easily put the spring clip on after putting the pads on and the pad wants to slide out so am confident they can now move freely spot of grease on the sliding pin and the lower caliper bolt and torqued it all back up also cleaned the disc with brake cleaner After pressing on the pedal a few times to reset the caliper the disc brushes on the pads slightly. I know this is a complete noob question but I take it they're suppose to do that? Only other observation is that the disc make such an ever so slightly different amount of brushing contact as you turn the hub which I assume is because the disc isn't completely 100% flush with the hub face. I'm talking about a very slight difference in sound but the wheel isn't bolted up yet so it could of course change. Sorry for the complete nooby questions - but I'm paranoid about not getting things 100% right so would appreciate some feedback on the above Drivers side tomorrow night. There will also be the layer of paint on the rear pad brackets which will of course make the pads a bit tighter than they should be but would you agree I should leave the rears alone given the issue for IVA is the fronts aren't effective enough? Once the drivers side is done - will then rebleed the whole system. Oh and an OEM clutch slave cylinder will be delivered tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Pads look OK but it's difficult to tell from a photo. I think you can improve them by a gentle rub with emery cloth or sandpaper on a flat surface. If you haven't got a flat bed then a mirror will do. The pads will rub on the disc and the disc will never be 100% true so will push the pad back a few thousands of an inch. It's not the hub, it's run out on the disc. The very expensive ones are machined to much higher tolerances. I think you have it, cleaning all the moving bits will help increase the effectiveness. Be careful when pushing the piston back in. If the master cylinder is full you may get a squirt of fluid come out of the cap and go over the paint. Take the m/cylinder cap off. The piston doesn't seem to be very far out. May be worth leaving the caliper bolted on and remove the pad. Insert two long screwdrivers to lever against the piston (mind the rubber dust seal). Get someone to push the pedal down slowly so the piston comes out. Don't come out too far, about 3/4 of the thickness of the pad material (not the whole pad). Then release the brake pedal and using the two screwdrivers to keep the piston "square" lever it back. Do this with the master cylinder cap off. Your doing this to free of the piston in case it's sticking. I doubt it is as it should have shown up on the brake test but it's a good thing to do.You can do this 2 or 3 times if you think it is getting freer until it feels the same. Won't do any harm bleeding again but I don't think you need to as you, or the tester, hasn't said the pedal is spongy. Hope that helps. I'm out tomorrow until mid afternoon. I'll watch out for any update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 thanks norm - comments taken on board. no uodates until tomorrow evening as I'm at work during the day any thoughts on the dust residue on the pad - normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Yes, normal. That's what makes alloy wheels go black. OK, I'm off to Angers to see the Prefecture. I've every piece of paper I can think of and more than the guide recommends. Bet they want something else. Like my passports which are in the UK for renewal and will be returned by a squadron of armed guards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistol Pete Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Hi David I'm off to a friendly MOT station next Saturday and have asked them to do a brakes test as well. Good idea about systematically testing the improvement on brake load. I'll put that to them and I'm sure they'll be accommodating. No I didn't - didn't realise needed to. Another rookie mistake Another good idea re the water, will do that on the Friday night before Saturday and also when I arrive at the MOT station if I have to wait around for a bit. Thanks New discs usually come coated in a grease to stop them rusting while there are on the shelf, if yours were and you didnt clean off with meths/white spirit prior to fitting you could have comtaninated the pads. this may be the reason for both the lack of braking at the front and lack of balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Pete, from the photo they don't look like they have oil on them, I'm sure Dave would have noticed.... I hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 yes no oil on the pads. the more I think about it the more I have an inclin I cleaned the discs. this would have been nearly 12 months ago so naturally I can't really remember drivers side taken apart and cleaned up tonight. very much the same as the passenger side. norm - piston also moves freely on that side. can lever both back with a couple of big flat bladed screwdrivers. have spoken to Mark and he has suggested there may be a partial blockage, possibly from debris or non uniform flare that could have compressed when tightening up, in the line from the m/c to the front t piece. therefore effectively acting as a bias on the front brakes. job for tomorrow night to check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 That may have happened, best remove the pipe from the m/cylinder to the front brakes. However, it would be most unusual. Did you make the pipes and, if so, have you used a decent flaring tool and did you ensure the flares were OK. The more I look at those pads the more I feel they could do with a good rub with emery cloth or sandpaper to remove that "glaze". This is the problem working off a picture and not holding the pad in your own hand. Check the pipe, rub down the pads and just try it up the road and see if you can lock the front wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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