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Yep. One only.. its matches my current pair... I only plan to damage one side in any future 'events'

we have a lot of eagle eyed members on here - if you upload photos from all around and underneath the car and engine, you'll get plenty of advice on ways to lighten your wallet next 🙂

Yes, we try to hold an annual weigh-in/ BBQ for the Essex & N Kent area - the cars tend to get lighter as the owners get heavier 🙂

One tyre related note; if you’re not used to cars as comparatively light weight as Westfields, it’s easy to get caught out on the tyre pressures. Typically, most owners end up running somewhere around 18psi, sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less - they’re quite sensitive to it, especially on track. 18 is a good starting point while getting used to the car though. Using the quick fit tyre fitters default of around 32 psi will feel horrible, like you’re on ice, and may even have you sliding around

Welcome! Lots of good points above! (Especially the fuel lines). But do check all the perishable rubber and silicon etc parts too, rad hoses, bellows and gaiters on suspension joints, the steering rack, drive shafts etc. Even if the car had been fresh from the factory, they're still quite an old fashioned car in so many ways. So while checking fluid levels and replacing obvious stuff like oil (engine, gearbox - possibly, diff - possibly) those last two kind of depend what state there in and/or if you want to replace just for peace of mind. BUT, don't forget to check if the prop shaft and/or drive shafts need greasing - many Westfields have grease nipples on the universal joints, into which you inject fresh grease with a grease gun - this also pushes out any old stuff at the same time. It's not a frequent job, but does need checking. Having an MoT already is a great start though! As far as tools go, the vast majority of servicing jobs on a Westfield really only need a fairly basic tool kit, the common metric spanners from 8mm through to 19mm will cover much of it. Be aware there are some imperial nuts and bolts too - but on the chassis most of them are in the "cross over" sizes. ie you can use the equivalent sized metric spanner. As well as screwdrivers, etc. A decent low level trolley jack pays dividends to get the car in the air, and decent axle stands to keep it up there, will help keep you safe!

Hi, I'd start by taking a close look at all of the fuel lines, as any original ones likely won't be ethanol proof and could be hiding splits and potential leaks... Recommend replacing all with Gates Barricade which is 100% ethanol proof (pricey but not crazily so). Also check you have a wiring diagram to match as there could be tired/corroded connectors waiting to strand you 🙂 Fibreglass quality was good in the 90s so it should polish up nicely 👌

Hi, Totally new to owning a Westfield but really excited as been wanting to find the perfect car to start my classic car journey for years and should be picking up my Westfield next week. I wanted to ask for any bits of advice that maybe you wish you knew back when you were first starting out and were new to it all. I'm getting a 1997 SE. It's got a Burton Power kent crossflow engine with stage 3 cylinder head. When i looked it over it think the rev timing is too slow and the carbs need tuning but apart from that seems all pretty good. What are those good tips and tricks for a new owner? Best starter tools to invest in? Most important maintenance jobs to learn first? Very much a beginner but really keen to learn everything so any help and guidance is appreciated

Check your handy list of expletives and learn when and where to use them, and at appropriate volume levels. Stock up on beer as it’s an essential lubricant during maintenance. Just because your missus says it’s okay to store spares and rebuild your carbs in the dining room doesn’t mean she’s happy about it.

Thanks for sorting the directions out Dave 👍 I have booked us all in for lunch, so no more entries please as there will be nowhere for you to eat. Thank you for understanding on a busy Easter Sunday (I had to negotiate a table booking without a £10 a head deposit, trade concessions as my sales manager used to teach me 😉)

Hi and welcome. Sounds like you have found yourself a similar car to mine. Mine had been sat for around 14 years so it's taken quite a bit to get it back to a useable state. As others have suggested anything rubber might have deteriorated and anything exposed to fuel will have suffered. It sounds like the previous owners have already done quite a bit so it might not be that bad. I had some issues with the brake master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders (if you have drums on the back) and had to replace everything. Another unexpected problem was the fuel tank. Mine was foam filled and the foam had started to break down. The fix for now was to pull it all out. There is lots to read up on here, my resurrection thread covers a lot of what I have done and others have written similar. If you don't have manuals you can download some from the club and at least a haynes manual to cover the engine and mechanicals will help.

Don’t use the post code - it takes you to the wrong place, here’s Quackers instructions: Access by car is via the A6020, Hassop to Ashford Road just off the A6. Follow our Parkland Drive to our brand new car park. There is a drop off zone outside the café and 5 disabled parking bays next to the café. Use what3words///gather.mango.tank to find us (our postcode doesn’t take you to the correct location). Here’s the turning on the map. When you turn left off the A6020, through the gates, follow the estate road round, then take the right hand fork and head up, past the ponds, the car park is at the end of this road.

Might be teaching you to suck eggs, but take earplugs and full waterproofs when you collect it - they're very loud and normally wet when you least expect it 🙂

I will do thank you 😊 holding off actually buying anything extra for it until I've actually got it here and can have a proper look over it so will make sure to get lots of pictures and see what people think! Just hoping the weather lightens up as just my luck it's raining all week around the time I'm getting it!

Welcome to Westy ownership & the WSCC - I’m assuming the car is MOT’d and you’re ready to hit the road. For me I took it easy for the first 3 months but drive it every time I could - fetching shopping (1 x max) & dropping round the outlaws - if it’s your first Westy you’ll be very mindful of not being cosseted all round my metal - but you overcome that in the first couple of drives - most of us drive with dipped head light all times as a lot of numpty drivers can’t see us - also I swapped from inertia reel belts to harnesses as I feel better protected. as for maintenance - check your tyres - low mileage cars can have 20 year old tyres & it’s the only thing that touches the road (hopefully) from your car & make a decision on the suitability change them if you need too - unless you have written evidence of a recent service I’d give it a full service as it’s a great way of learning about the car & gives peace of mind - also consider replacing the coolant & if you do flush it out and replenish with good quality coolant as it’s not expensive when you have no labour costs. Also agree with KCE above on fuel lines, I found mine looked ok until careful inspection & being 24 yrs old were desperate to be replaced. Apart from that I’d just get in & drive it with the biggest grin you will have ever had when being behind a wheel & you retain the stupid grin when thinking about it or for at least 1 hr before/after your driven it. Most of all just enjoy it knowing you made a fantastic decision. 🫶🏼🤞👍

I suspect your 645 is closer to the mark than the council scales - here's a little summary of a spread of Essex cars:

I took mine on the track the other day, impressed how fast it was…. 🤪🤣🤣

I've upgraded to J K Seats and some 3" harnesses, hence I've got these available. 3D printed clips are included to prevent you being slapped by your own straps! 4 point black harness Note not all the mounting hardware will be provided as shown, you'll need to buy the 4 lower waist belts strap bolts to fasten to the chassis. I will provide the top hat washers though. You may also need some spacers-spacers I will included these though- Buckle covers & these-Eye bolt The new price is currently- £100 for the pair. Either collection from Stoke-on-Trent (or a Peak meet) or I'll post at your cost. Alternatively I'm generally in my office in Manchester (M20 2UR) on a Tuesday. My seats are identical to these-Sport Turbo- Black with white piping and includes the adjustable runners fitted too- runners They're certainly not as new as they've served me well for 9 years and have been used in all weathers. Hence they may need refurbishment and there are signs of rust as shown on the pictures below. There is a small tear in the driver’s seat from my IVA tester’s keys which were clipped to his belt. I’ve had quotes to repair it and have ignored it so far as you don’t see it when your driving 😄 Driver's Seat- New they would cost- Passenger seat I'll take £800 for them as they are. They will pass IVA. I'd prefer not to post due to size/weight and difficulty packing them. Hence collection only from Stoke-on-Trent or I'm generally in my office in Manchester (M20 2UR) on a Tuesday.

FW rear diffuser (new) £250 SOLD Zetec tunnel sides approx height dimensions are 340, 240, and 300mm, has been in storage and wrapped in cling film so will need a polish £125 Tunnel top approx dimensions 190 height 525 to bend and 300 to end, has been in storage and wrapped in cling film so will need a polish £40 Clutch foot rest £35 SOLD All collection or post extra or can take to Blyton next month

Good point. Mine had 28 in when I bought it. I now run 18 front 16 rear.

Tyres that old are almost 100% definitely not safe, so good move getting decent tyres first. Find solid jacking points even if you don't need them just yet, it pays to know how to get it up in the air without damaging anything underneath. I have a rear diffuser for example, makes it a bit of a pain when it comes to jacking it up tbh. Put it in for its next MOT as far ahead of the renewal date as you are allowed, gives you time to sort anything unexpected that may be a fail or just iffy advisories and make any improvements (being as it's a new car to you) When driving always assume other road users can't see you. It's amazing how many times that becomes truth! You would think a bright orange car coming at you like an exocet with its lights on would be visible, but apparently not to everyone 😂 Stay safe and welcome to the WSCC 👍

This is the one

Haha that is a good point actually 😂 Hopefully I may be getting it dropped to me as it's about a 40 minute / 20 mile drive and I don't really want to drive it that distance if the tyres are 25ish years old and be fearing for my life whether I'll get a blowout the whole time

Great stuff thanks, and yep already got a smile just thinking about it in anticipation haha. Yes tyres I've already looked into and will be getting them changed as soon as I get it as I'm pretty sure they are the original ones from the 90s so they look perfect but absolutely won't be taking the risk. Found a local garage that I can get some good ones from and fitted. It's got an MOT until July so at least don't have to think about that straight away, but will definitely get a service just for that peace of mind. I want to learn how to do as much as I can myself but at least if it's done professionally the first time I know I've got the right starting point to go from. It's already got harnesses which is nice, but I may have to find a solution for the seats as I don't know how my bony back is going to fare with the plastic seats haha.

This is just the kind of advice I was hoping for aha, thank you very much. There is a folder with a lot of receipts in it, one for petrol pipe bought in 2000, and another for oil hose bought in 2014. So will definitely get the fuel lines replaced. I was told that someone did some bits to it a year or so ago to get it running again but not 100% sure exactly what they did. I think it's story is a couple people had hold of it, did a lot of work to it over time but never actually got it out on the road so it's sat for a long time

Yes mate, Dave did mine. It hadn’t been done at all since the build and I know the front in particular was all over the place, so felt very different afterwards, very pleased. I haven’t spun on track since….😂

Yes. Car is 647kg without me.

@Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO - you are saving me so much time and guesswork for when I replace my seats. Can't thank you enough mate for all the work you very obviously put into everything you do WSCC-wise! 👌 If there was a club vote for 'member of the year' you'd get my vote. I now await all the member jokes........

Enjoy the racing 👍 @Paul Hurdsfield - Joint Manchester AO

Hi Ian, thanks for the offer, I’m looking to get a set ready to drop in when I’ve finished the rear end refurb & have an option on refurb of my original leathers with head rest - so a little torn in which way to go. If I change my mind I’ll come back to you. BR Phil 👍

Sorry I can't join you today @Paul Hurdsfield - Joint Manchester AO Have a great day.

@ianaliare you sure it’s not ‘your’ dog because you feed and walk it more than your daughter 🤣

Further to discussion with Tony ( @DamperMan) and @Maurici- CleaR Motorsport I wound the perches down two full turns on both sides and stiffened the shocks up to 9 clicks. I drove it 30 or so miles to the Cheshire meet on Thu night like this. The banging was reduced in frequency and intensity over some of our poor quality roads but the ride stiffness was harder and I'd not want to run like this normally. It would be fine on track. I dropped the shocks to 0 clicks on the carpark at the Golden Pheasant and demonstrated the knocking to @Greenstreak-Andy D who agreed it was likely the dampers in full extension. I wound the clicks up to 5 for the journey hold and it was crash and bang city all the way. Yesterday morning, I've reset my front to 140mm and rear to 165mm (chassis rail not lowered floor) with my weight in the car and set the rear shocks to 6 clicks up (front are at 5 clicks up). This is how I've ran since originally fitting the Spax in Nov 2022. A short 15 mile test drive confirmed all the be wonderful and no more knocking. clearly I've undone all @Maurici- CleaR Motorsport good work with the corner weighting, however it was always an experiment for me with my mobile laboratory. I enjoy it. Some experiments work, some don't. I'm just home from a great 100 mile trip round the peaks with approx 50 of those with a 12 stone passenger and the car has ran fine. no knocks, no bottoming out handled great. @Maurici- CleaR Motorsport has kindly offered to take a look at my corner weights free of charge, so I will revisit in the next few weeks, but I'll not be adjusting the ride height at the rear much higher!

The sounds are very much like the dampers coming to the end of there stroke…. To control the suspension bringing it to a controlled stop in 10mm vs 50mm requires a lot more damping, which would be detriment to the ride quality previously enjoyed. Also if the damper is topping out the wheel will be unloading from the road, not following the road’s profile.. The dampers supplied are standard length for the rear. I have come across cars needing shorter dampers on the rear but non longer needing longer. I try not to stay awake at night thinking about these things. These are kit cars and sometimes they are as special and unique as we are. There are other things which sometimes make noises too which get blamed on the dampers or happen change when ride hight changes…. Handbrake cables now taping something, drive shafts not being fairly horizontal and bouncing between the joints as the wheels go up and down. These are just a few fairly random things I’ve some across on various cars. Even an intermittent rattle which turned out to be a fuel float… As said we can extend the damper tops to increase the open length of the damper if required. as regards to coating the threads.. There is always a compromise of grease/copperslip/waxoil attracting dirt or keeping them dry. People have very absolute views on what to do. But if it’s a dry use car it largely does not matter. Ians car is used in al weathers. I prefer the grease the threads with copperslip. Once the hight has been set cleaning the exposed thread just to make it look clean. If the body’s are aluminium or steel and plating it’s important not to damage the coating on the damper as it leads to damper damage.. grit will.. so will turning the collars if loaded dry damage the coating. On the Spax dampers the thread is stainless steel. But the anodized spring seats are aluminium so there is potential for corrosion between the two if not protected. The spring seat is sacrificial not the damper. The seats can be cut and split, the stainless cleaned up as it’s not at all compromised and new seats fitted.

Yes, but, you are mixing concepts here. Unless you do oval racing, or you like braking locking front wheels, there is no real reason of having positive or negative wedge. You are mixing static weight distribution (construction) and dynamic weight transfer. Cross weight its never been misleading, is a tool to mitigate the inherent unbalance due the non symmetrical construction of a car. Particularly important in a very light and small two seater.

50% is only desirable if that's what you want from the car, ie it says the centre of mass is in the middle of the 4 tyre patches, however it's a misleading number because 1) you might not want that it depends what you are doing with the car and your personal handling preferences and 2) you can have a number close to 50% and yet still have a big diagonal tyre load inbalance, see Ian's car has 16kg across one diagonal (very close) but 62kg across the other. Sadly because of the way the car pivots across the evenly load-spread diagonal the only way to address that is to move weight in the car, you won't sort it on spring platform height changes alone.

Good read on the geo set up session @Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO - I had a similar day last year with our local guy and it was a real education for me, really enjoyed it. Was curious to see the weight of your car though. Mine weighed in a few kilos lighter and I’ve got windscreen, full cage, heater, carpets etc so I was surprised at the weight of Bagpuss. Is the Honda a heavier set up or something compared to mine (Zetec)? That said, the Honda has more power and it’s a long time since I was a svelte 70kgs!