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The amount and depth of information Dave has been posting in the Tech section helping people with issues is quite simply amazing. The forum would be quite a different place without his input I feel. Good stuff Dave, worthy of a mention I feel.

So close to finishing that it almost hurts! Need to balance the throttle bodies once my synchrometer arrives. Fit the nosecone, plus a few other little jobs....

There is 3 ways of register a Westfield in France : - Buy it new or already registered in France. - Buy one overseas which is less than 30 years Old : You have to make it road registered with a lot of test (they will consider you build it and check everything.. takes years and a lot of money). - Last way (and easiest) is to buy a 30 years old Westfield, correctly registered as a westfield (not the donor car ID) and to ask the FFVE (French féderation of Classic cars) a receipt to prove it is old enough to be registered a classic car. You need an MOT, a FFVE certificate, proof of bought. The precious certificate needs : picture of the car (engine, chassis number, front , rear etc...) , full details (make, model, date of first registration...) . Once received, you can ask for the french v5 . it took 3 months for mine. Can make a more developped article to show document etc on this last way.

I've just popped this on my blog but thought it might be better served here to generate some well mannered lock down debate. Or name calling, any kind of interaction will do nowadays! It will possibly be a bit patronising in places as we already know what Westfields are like, so apologies for that. My thoughts on owning a ‘big power’ Westfield With a few years of a 340bhp Westfield under my belt, I’ve found myself more and more hinting others against such levels of power. I did have the word “advising” rather than hinting in there, but that’s not fair as I don’t think a big power Westfield is a bad thing. Quite the opposite, in fact. It’s just a very different thing to when it was a middling power Westfield. Given that I’m strongly considering a rather dramatic change of direction for my car, I thought it best to write down my thoughts on what it’s meant, even if just for my own benefit. I’ll approach a few of the more popular themes when someone mentions a rather silly bhp for a Westfield “It’s a handful on the road” Well, I suppose if it’s a track only car, which mine has been for a couple of years, that doesn’t really matter. However, when it had an MOT, it was a fantastic road car. I never had to change gear to find a higher speed, just ride the massively flat torque curve. It’s a ridiculously docile car which, aside from a slightly grabby clutch (more OEM feeling ones that handle the power are available), could probably be driven by just about anyone. It’s about the furthest from a handful that you can get. What you can’t do, however, is work it on the road. It is far too quick for us mere mortals to be aware of hazards, correct the car over any bumps, change gear, process what’s going on around you, have to change gear again and even by the time you’ve read this, you’re significantly above any speed limits or indeed speeds where you’d survive and accident. To that end, it does stop being a Westfield, and become the world’s smallest GT car. Great and smoothing out the corners and cruising up to the next one with the gentlest of squeezes of the throttle. Thoroughly dangerous when deploying all of the horses. This is not a bad thing. In some ways it’s positive because you tend to drive slower and smoother, and you already know that you genuinely are the fastest thing on the road and have nothing to prove. The person with a 150bhp Westfield accelerating hard for 15 seconds between corners might be having more fun though. “You can’t keep it cool” More power, more heat. More revs, more heat. Can’t really escape that one. A Westfield also doesn’t have a lot of ways of getting rid of that heat. The bonnet opening is filled by a radiator originally specced to cool a 1.0 Polo. Now we’re trying to use the same area to cool a power output a comedy factor more than said Polo. This is where you spend your money. The radtec radiator/intercooler combo was the single biggest investment in the turbo projects and it’s fulfilled its role beautifully. These are the coolant and intake temps recorded over a track session that must have had 26 minutes of full speed work. That was on one of those rare summer days with actual sun as well, so mid 20s plus the sunshine baking the tarmac. Those peaks are within 1.5 degrees of each other – to handle that for all that length of time is particularly impressive. Though of course, I deserve more praise for staying out there that long. I’d say one of the benefits of having a large amount of power is also that you can afford to lose some. My engine runs a tiny bit rich precisely to provide a little bit of cooling assistance. “Turbo engines are laggy, peaky and difficult to drive” You tend to see these comments from the older generation, and that’s fair enough… they’ve driven 80’s turbos and, frankly, they’ve earned that opinion! None of it holds true nowadays though. The very modern turbo engines are impressively responsive. I think the only criticism you can throw at them nowadays is they don’t tend to rev that high anymore. My car sits in the middle of those two extremes. It’s not laggy, it’s not peaky and it’s easy to drive. It also revs to 7.4k and makes power all the way there. But it’s not as responsive as something like an EcoBoost when lower in the rev range. Fine on track, but I do think it would be a bit frustrating on the road. Then I suppose, we’ve already decided that the throttle is to be used sparingly on the road. Also, is it any worse than an N/A engine with cams aimed for top end power? Back to throttle response on track, it’s fine. You don’t wait for the power to come in. You don’t wait for the boost to build. It’s all there if you ask for it. Take the following graph of throttle position (blue), boost (red) and RPM (beige?): This shows the entry into a chicane, balancing the throttle through it and powering out of it. The throttle has been off for 4 seconds before this, suggesting I’ve caught a car up and it let me past on the exit. You can see the first input into the throttle produces an instant response from the turbo, and this is from 3.3k rpm so reasonably low for track work. This tracks the throttle position until the second application, where by the turbo responds again but is held back once it reaches the actuator level. Here, because the RPMs are in the mid range, the boost level is reduced to manage that massive lump of torque turbos like to give. Perhaps the reason they’re often described as peaky. The boost is now following a rising limit to keep the torque curve as flat as possible. At the gear change, the throttle is off 100% for 0.5 seconds. The boost follows this, taking 0.6s to achieve 21psi again. Which yes, is higher than it was originally set but crucially, not higher than it has been mapped for. Either way, I think that’s plenty responsive enough. So what do I think? Big power doesn’t ruin a Westfield. I’m 100% confident in that. What it does do though, at least for mere mortals, is change it. I’ve found that corners on track are mere obstacles to be cleared ready for the next application of power. Get the car slowed down (no mean feat!), turn in, get it roughly near the apex, balance the throttle, wait for it to straighten out, then deploy the power down the straight ready for the next corner. It’s made me lazy in many respects. On a sequence of close together corners or chicanes, I won’t be taking stabs of throttle between them. Just a gentle squeeze to smoothly get me to the next one without arriving too quickly and giving myself too much to do. Quite the difference to when I had 150-160bhp on throttle bodies. I suppose in that respect it’s ironically safer on track as you don’t tend to go hunting for those extra tenths. You don’t need to. It’s probably quite telling that since fitting a turbo, I’ve never spun on track. I’ve gone straight on at corners more than once! But never spun it. There is only ever one thing quicker than me on a track, and that’s a lighter, less powerful Westfield/Caterham. They’re usually on slicks, so a more serious effort than mine, but typically 100bhp or more down on me. And if they’re quick enough to catch me up despite the deficit on the straights, it shows how much I waste through the corners by not applying the throttle or pushing the car. Which isn’t speed I’m wasting, it’s fun and personal reward. I’ve had a lot of fun with my Westfield, and I don’t regret any of the options and even at my most modest I think I’ve done a really good job of breaking the 300bhp barrier in the right way. Even if I never actually meant to. But I’ve had my fun now, and it’s time for a change. For a long time now I’ve wanted to build another, knowing what I’ve learned over the last 7 years. So I’m going to rebuild this one, with less power, and more revs, and less weight, and more noise. Goodbye gentle beast. Hello bl**** idiot. That’s an RX-8 231 engine. It’s going to rev to 10k+, it’s going to breathe fire, it’s going to drink fuel like it's a water wheel and confine me to the noisy step on track days… and every now and again… it might even work!

He’s just trying to keep his post count up so he stays in the lead ahead of @Blatman 😄

And the answer is back pressure inmediatly behind the rad. (and this does not necesairly means actuall stuff behind it)... is basically a pressure balance. I found that with my former westfield. Behind the radiator was not many things... and in the sides, it was quite a lot of stuff... (Dry sump pump, massive manifolds...) so apparently there was not an obvious baypass route, and the air was still going trough my radiator quite nicelly. I had no ducting in the front, and I usually had overcooling problems... In my former MK, despite the engine bay was significantly emptier (r1 BEC engine) and I had ducted the nose to the rad to avoid air leaks, this was still not working very well, and didn´t work well untill I managed to lower the air pressure inside the engine bay ducting the radiator outlet somewere with obvious air escape. This is more an Aero thing than actual cooling. I find myself pretty often simulating (well... requesting simulations, I don´t run them) several times front end layouts with minimal ducting changes and minimal layout changes with a massive impact in drag and aero... and sometimes we do pretty big changes expecting massive improvements only to do nothing. In the case of a westfield... and taking in account all is budget build... it is difficult to predict. When I got my former XE car, with that much power and a not that big of a radiator I expected to work very poorly and I thought @AdamR was nuts when he did the setup, only to prove myself really really wrong. well, he is nuts but the car including the cooling system was spot on (is the only car I have never ever modified the cooling system). Trial error is the thing here. IF (really big IF....) you are sure the heat rejection of your rad is just good enough (because someone runs the same setup and works) but you are not cooling, chances are you have an airflow problem. Ducting, unducting, and allowing air out from the engine bay are solutions you can try, however, generally, a nicely ducted nose and an engine bay with flared sides, or slotted bonnet in the back, should work in most situations.

Hi All, I am arranging a Pub Quiz on Sunday at 8pm which I am happy to Host or pass over the hosting to others. The structure will be 10 rounds - 5 questions in each round. Round 1: Cars Round 2: Seven Cars Round 3: Geography Round 4: Sports Round 5: Music << Break for drinks>> >> Answers for Rounds 1-5 << Round 6: Picture Round Round 7: TBC - If a host wants to create their own. Round 8: TBC - If a host wants to create their own. Round 9: TBC - If a host wants to create their own. Round 10: TBC - If a host wants to create their own. >> Answers for Rounds 6-10 << If you want to host a round: No need to send anyone your questions/Answers, just let me Josh (jjhlawson) know that you want to host and you can take over the hosting for the round. If you don't want to host but just turn up: follow the instructions below: CLICK ON THE LINK: https://us02web.zoom.us/j/5340497145?pwd=WVVCd1R3cVRVL3AzMm8zSGFqb3VnQT09 Meeting ID: 534 049 7145 Password: Hellodear For use on mobiles; One tap mobile +442034815240,,5340497145#,,1#,470441# United Kingdom +441314601196,,5340497145#,,1#,470441# United Kingdom Dial by your location +44 203 481 5240 United Kingdom Meeting ID: 534 049 7145 Password: 470441 Find your local number: https://us02web.zoom.us/u/kcU0J6GjwY I look forward to seeing people on the weekend.

To drive in a sprint at anything less than the ability of the car/driver combination would be a nonsense. If you simply want to drive quickly on a track you might be better off doing trackdays where normally you get much more track time. The whole point of doing sprints (or hillclimbs) is to drive as quickly as you/your car are able to do, and try and beat your nearest competitiors. Like Terry says, without that where is the adrenaline rush? It would be pointless.

d 😄

Mine is on its way. Looking forward to it 😀

Please direct all complaints to @Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO - thank you.

What've I just said in the other thread

I blame you for this Ian... You know what happens when you poke him!

I think the thread title to be misleading, it implied that we would be supplied with daily puns of a similar quality. 'Get ya finger out Scott' @Captain Colonial

Auto windscreens did mine

Worth remembering that DonutMunchers can confiscate your camera and analyse the data should you get a tug with it on display too. In GoPro Quik (PC version) Click on the speedo symbol near the bottom of the screen You can then chose what you wish to overlay: You can drag them about too: This is the last time I drove Bagpuss, two months ago today 😂

A 9 mile drive today on backroads to take me to my walk.

Hello and thanks for this wonderful place where i can find a lot of Informations on my car. I am a french enthusiast. 42 years old and got a SE narrow body for 1 year now. quite a quiet example, with 1600 mexico inside, 4 gears but i love it

They are finally available! Standard (240mm) and XXL wide (305mm) ZK rear arches in real carbon fibre: https://www.facebook.com/groups/6231698041/permalink/10157363923083042/ Known good quality and priced at the same as factory GRP.

Uhm, yes, about that... On May the 24th it is the official National Drive Your Westfield to Work Day, which is a normally a week where we encourage you to leave the normal daily driver at home and experience driving the Westfield to your place of work, raising smiles on both your face, and those who join you in the daily drudge. But due to a certain pandemic, this may not be possible (my car is still SORNed due to wfh) so I would like everyone to get creative and get a picture of themselves with their Westfield! A selfie, a picture taken by a member of your family... as long as it is a fresh picture, everything is submittable! You have the week from 24th to the 30th to participate 👍 Have a look at previous years: 2019, 2018 and 2017.

Hi all, I joined a little while ago but have just picked-up my first Westfield. It’s a 1800i Zetec - and it’s a peach! I found the original builder via the forums - just to say hello and to compliment them on the great work! I’ve been grateful for the help and advice that I’ve already had via the forums - so thanks v m. I’m based in Somerset, in sunny Minehead, and looking forward to meeting up with anyone down in this neck of the woods once the madness is over! Look forward to the summer and catching up! Thanks! W

My Spats from my FW we’re showing their age and had a few stone chips and a couple of cracks ,I looked to see if anyone was making carbon ones but no one is ( Mick Cooper is on the case ) .Ive had a few bits hydro dipped ,but as the spats are up front I thought dipping wouldn’t be durable enough so I asked around on Facebook .I got talking to a guy living in Holland called Don Fulford on the Westfield site and he said he’d Carbon skin them for me .I sent them off and 2 weeks ish later they’re back .To say I’m impressed would be an understatement he’s done a great job I can’t wait to get them fitted ,👍

m

is this going to turn into the single letter never ending story I wonder...............................

could be good for export in France, belgium or so on registered November 1990 , will not stay in Uk i think . good luck with the sale.

🏅 Here you are @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

fixed that for you 👍

@Chris Broster - Bristol & Bath AO It's hard to advise for obsolete products that are no longer available for earlier models in the Westfield range, most of the parts are identified via email through the Technical Department. The range in previous years, was massive 10-15 different chassis, lots of engine types and other options. The parts would potentially go into the thousands. Unfortunately we just do not have the time to offer this service. Thankfully, we have such a great forum, where people own the earlier models in the range and have great knowledge and are able to advise. @Andy M We are limited with drop down options. Improving the parts descriptions would be a better option for the parts that may be suitable for early models in the range. Biggest challenge, I find on parts inquires for earlier vehicles, customers (not all) don't know what they have installed on the vehicles. This is down to a number of reasons. Biggest, these are hobbyist vehicles, designed to allow customers to build and change to different specifications, what was installed many years ago, you will find isn't what is installed now. Aftermarket parts are fitted, alternative engines, other manufacturers products. Also for the early vehicles, some suppliers are no longer here, products would have been superseded and changed. Not the answer, you both had hoped for but it gives you an insight as to why we cannot proceed with the particular ideas.

Start line marshalls with a chock work on up hill starts (e.g. Shelsley and Prescott). They do not work on level starts (e.g. sprints and Harewood) or down hill starts (e.g. Gurston, Loton).

I am okay with rolling it on. It is a valid point that even locally for bread, butcher meat we are sourcing a lot more from small local businesses to support them and whatever “new” arrangement they have put in place rather than just going to the supermarket. Even down to drinking the local brew although that is no hardship.😀

Indeed, hadn't actually considered that! I know for a fact that this particular camp site belongs to a college and as such, doesn't get the support and funding as you might expect of a purely holiday focused business modelled company, and as you said, 'Westfield friendly'!

The bit I find most impressive is how the radiator can ditch the heat after the intercooler has done its work. My intake temps are cooler than when I had throttle bodies, yet the air coming out of the turbo must be ridiculously hot at 21psi? I suppose one saving grace is you never make that much power for that long, plenty of time to dissipate heat whilst braking and cornering. The radiator/intercooler combo is a radtec unit, originally created for the Corsa engine'd Sport Turbo's Westfield sold as their type approved vehicle. Other than that it's a very simple coolant route with OEM waterpump and OEM thermostat. No ducting... also no front grill. That seems to make a difference to some cars (I've never run it since if fell off in 2013).

Thanks Rab. I’m happy to keep my booking for next year 👍

I can still do a search y'know...

It's an FW bonnet. Though I doubt it's that alone, (maybe the different top vents help somehow), FW noses have proven just as susceptible to the rad bypass issues as others. It's more likely to be something in the mapping I suspect.

@Dommo - We must compare the inlets to our nose cones, as I have been pondering why your cooling is so good with no ducting. Whereas mine ceases to function from 70-80mph onwards without the ducting. I forget name for the style of integrated nose and bonnet you have, I am just curious if your spot on cooling with stop being spot on if you have to move to a conventional nose and V8 bonnet to fit the rotary. One to consider

Mine arrived yesterday, (seem to have subscribed!) Cracking work.

It's available to buy from today (free postage)... https://www.performancepublishing.co.uk/latest-issue.html

Challenge accepted. Everything that happens from here onwards is @Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO’s fault. 😛

Ok..glad I have saved you buying another sender!

Brilliant...

You know what - I like that sentiment. 😁

I know I’m early! But by pure chance we’re in the Westie today😃 but I think we’ve been overshadowed. 🤔

Thanks all! i picked up a beaut of an 1800 SEIW on Tuesday! Had a 70 mile drive home and absolutely loved it. Sound track was as great as the drive! if you make it Porlock then give me a shout! Thx W

Finally got my Peak district fix today. Driving down Winnats Pass. Also we stopped off at Tagg Lane dairy which was open for take away.

Kit collected in 2010, and the first quick drive of it today. Only 10 miles, as wanted a quick shake down

Well I went out for a quick 60 mile spin today which was great but going though Cannock Chase a white van man flicked up a large stone and trashed my screen. Could of been worse if I would have had an aeroscreen and passenger in the car. Just emailed Adrian Flux to find out who I call to claim for a new screen but they just cut you off everytime.🤬 So I've emailed them fingers crossed they will answer that. Westfield parts told me there's at least a 2 week wait for a new screen. At least it's not blocking my view so I can still use the car.