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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/03/20 in all areas
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Hi everyone. By now you should be able to see the masthead at the top of the page calling for volunteers to help run the National Kit Car Show at Stoneleigh this year. I can’t emphasise enough what a great weekend this is. It’s a wonderful opportunity to meet and socialise with fellow club members, sponsors and such like. Volunteering is flexible and doesn’t need to be a whole weekend commitment. I’d encourage anyone who hasn’t done it before but fancies a go to ask any questions about what it entails and also have a read of the summer 2017 article in Westfield World about my first time volunteering which is available for download by members here. So rollup, rollup and ask away Cheers. Paul.5 points
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Yes and no. Yes, 3" is better, where the webbing thickness and strength per square inch is the same as a 2" - also three inch spreads the contact across the body. However, when you compare the cross section of a 2" ejection seat harness to a 3" racing harness, the jet harness is way stronger (I'm an ex-Airforce aircraft safety systems tech). So it's subjective. There are 2" QRF (Quick Release Fitting (the buckle is a 'fitting')) harnesses around, and I believe the 2" to be a better fitment in a small confined road-car than a bulky 3". https://www.purple-dot.com/performance-shop/uncategorized/luke-professional-4-point-harness/ Pull-up lap belts are better than pull-down lap belts, as the lap belts can be made snugger to the body. And I know I always bang on about this each time belts come up on the forum, but I see so many with the straps adjusted incorrectly, which would result (in an accident) the wearer slipping under the harness and cramming into the footwell...so, always have the shoulder straps slackened off when getting in, adjust the lap belts snug and low to the hip line, below the gut on the portly fellas, and only then adjust but not overtighten the shoulder straps. When you get out of the straps, slacken the shoulder straps before your bum leaves the seat.2 points
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Hi Scott, Most TRV's don't care if they are on the in or the out. I've tried this balancing game. It's slow, painful and noisy. If you have females in the house, my experience has been they will still not understand the the overall room stat which calls for heat doesn't know the temperature in other rooms and hence if the room with the room stat in has reached temp, the central heating will be off and no amount of TRV adjustment will bring on the rad in another room. Once you start throttling back the lock shield valves, you'll find they are noisy! Good luck! Ian2 points
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I have replaced mine but also changed dampers etc for longer ones as I bottomed out on a regular basis. @Julie Hall - Peak District AO would recommend @DamperMan as she installed progressive springs and is very pleased with results. Might be worth dropping him a note. 😀2 points
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Anyone want to buy some big heads? I'm thinking bolts don't look so bad after all!2 points
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As usual we hope to have some speed series cars on display at the show which has Set up on Friday 1st May with the show on 2nd and 3rd May 2020. We would like to have a good show of some of the speed series cars so that this will promote our series and get a few more people interested and supporting our popular series which accommodates all Westfield kit cars. Anybody who is available and able to support this great event should contact Ian Tolfree by sending him a PM for more details asap.1 point
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Thanks @Terry Everall - WSCC Competition Secretary Please also note that this year, the stand will be in Hall 1 next to the Westfield Factory stand and NOT tucked away in the back of hall 2! Well done @Gail Jones (Shows & Events Coordinator) for her excellent negotiation, to achieve this!1 point
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Can’t do any more in March just too busy. Might manage Croft on 30th though. But there’s a few to choose from in April at Cadwell and Blyton.1 point
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Very true. However, I caught a sale lucky. Normally Hive TRV heads are an eye-watering £54 each but British Gas had a sale and I got 5 for £20 each. They are all thermostats and each communicate individually via WiFi to the central hub so extra room stats aren’t required.1 point
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The engine is “in” but needs some fettling, dry sump needs plumbing, coolant hoses and oil cooler hoses need doing, needs a RR session, a geo then once that’s all done, I’ll lick it like a stamp and send it. Probably End of May / June depending on @syman84 free time!1 point
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Thanks Adam for your suggestion.. OK how many for a day at .. a race track? 😄 You've got to go back to Croft sometime to perfect Sunny in and out. 😉1 point
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The old valves on my system can now only be adjusted by using a spanner due to being so stiff to operate. The new ones will have Hive TRV heads which I can temperature control individually in each room via an app down to 0.5 of a degree at whatever time I like. Its also good for when I have guests over (three spare bedrooms) as they can set it for whatever temp they like during their stay... and if they outstay their welcome, I can override it via the app and boil or freeze them out. 😄1 point
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Surely the radiators should be balanced using the lockshield valves? Although TRV's are good too. To balance, open everything fully, turn on heating, then close the lockshields slightly on the rads which get hotter first, repeat until even ish. Our plumber fitted 'Danfoss RTW' units when we asked for a good quality trv, they appear as good as any other. They are a mix, but about 70% are on the outlet side, I guess cooler end gets better room-temp response? Daniel1 point
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I struggle to plan more than a month in advance, but count me in! Application form completed. Best finish the engine project... Daniel1 point
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My questions are why do you want to change the springs... The rear springs are likely to be ~200lbs/“ from the factory (SEWI) but it’s a kit car! And could be anything! If you have rubbing issues these would be better fixed with using spacers and longer bumpstops. If you feel the car bottoming out maybe stiffer springs or longer smoother operating bumpstops or stiffer compression damping or all of those would help. If you want the springs testing I can do that...1 point
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