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Hi Mike, welcome to the site. If you would like some advice from someone very new to Westfields, here’s mine.. I’m a tight arsed Yorkshireman so paying fees for anything really goes against the grain, if I can find a way of getting owt for nowt, without taking the p**s, I will. But I have to admit paying the full club membership has paid for itself more than a few times for me. I have bought and sold cars and parts on here, also been offered cars that weren’t advertised yet and been given loads of advice from more than helpful members that seem more than willing to bend over backwards for you. Stuff you won’t get on FB forums. I’ve been offered meets and runs out.. I’m not a people person so the club thing and meets etc. Is a tall ask for me, but I will one day.. My renewal has just come up and to be honest my first reaction was my default setting of “naa, don’t waste money” but then I thought about what I had gained from it over the past year and decided it is worth joining for another year. The magazine alone may be worth the fee if you like that sort of thing. I must admit, I’m a picture browser with a short attention span, so it doesn’t do that much for me, but my grandson likes it Personally I’d like some nice club stickers without a date on them.. out of date stickers upset my OCD . If you are serious about getting into Westfields then, although it pains me to say it, you could do a lot worse than join the owners club. You will find all you need to know and may, like myself, find the perfect car for you. You May find the forum a little frustrating at times because it doesn’t seem to be often used. But hey.. people have lives and don’t bob on and off forums like some do on FB for example but you will find the best advice and for sales etc. are here. Good luck.

Hi bugman My v8 car has been putting anything from 300 to 400 lbs ft of torque through the rear tyres since 2001. The chassis has held up well I started on toyo proxies, yes I meant to miss the r out. They are dangerous for high torque and light cars, simply too hard and setup for a heavier car for a Westfield to ever generate decent grip. I tried Yokohama 48 and toyo 888 with massive benefits. They work well in dry and even wet if you are careful. You should be aware they take a few miles to warm up before you can push them but only three miles or so. They also cool if you spend time in traffic too. They won't drive through the winter or flooded roads but I doubt you want your car for this. I have had really good experiences on a lower powered car with federal 595 rsr which are nearly a year round tyre that will also do track days and great road grip. They wouldn't work in my Westfield with the torque but not sure on your car? Just a qualifier though. Even with hot toyo 888 I can still spin the rear wheels at three figure speeds in 4th under acceleration. I have tried toyo sg and gg compounds. I favour sg which are even softer than gg. They are great on the roads better than gg and only get too hot on track days if you do more than 15 minutes which is often enough anyway. If choose another tyre always look at the tread wear rating as a rough guide. Anything of 100 or less is in the right direction for a soft tyre. If you see 250 or 400 it's for a big luxury car or rock hard economy tyres to last forever and never grip. Think 888 are 80 or less. A soft tyre will really enhance your car with good geo and make you enjoy it rather than be scared of it. Don't forget your turn in from the front end will make you forget understeer until you get back into your daily driver........ In the rain with an 888 or 48 they still grip and corner better as good as a normal car but obviously not as good as it does in the dry. Just drive as if you are in the daily driver and you will be ok.

I hope not, but my current colour scheme hides any future dribbles well

Here's how I did mine. Though I was moving the rad forward to allow a Siltech roll bar to be mounted to as the original location meant the bar would be passing through my fan! I've suffered several radiator leaks which are either due to poor manufacturing or vibration through the chassis, hence wanted to do something better. Note this is on an S2000/Sport 250 chassis with welded on steel top mounts. The bobbins are from RS: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/stud-mounts/1263950/?searchTerm=126-3950&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E285C647B362C377D5B4161426250705D297C285C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D5B4161426250705D3F292426706F3D3126736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3132362D33393530267374613D3132363339353026 I had the posts and spacers made by a friend with a lathe. I'll gladly send dimensions if required. I did have to fit longer hoses too, given how far I'd moved forwards.

Thats the joy of a club like this. It caters for as little or for as much as you want. A club is , as a whole, what you put in, you get out again and more. I found , even though been here longer than most, that my recent car build and advice from here, actually built my car and saved me more money than the annual premium. I fade away from here, when I sell my cars , but always seem to come back for more. It also is a good place to help others in exchange for others helping you.

I Bought my car less than a year ago but joined up here first ,I figured when I was looking at spending 10k plus for a car that the joining fee would be money well spent.and I could check a few things out ,meet a few members ,go to a couple of meets and see a few cars . Youll not get better advice than what’s on offer here ,I new very little just that I had wanted one for years ,I had been to loads of shows but new nothing about engines,suspension ,brakes etc if I hadn’t joined and asked a load of questions I wouldn’ be the proud owner of a 240 bhp Zetec engined FW car on throttle bodies ,that growls and spits flames and is such a rush to drive .

The dates are fixed in our calendar but may change if an organising club has a problem with the circuit etc. This rarely happens !

There is some on eBay at the moment, standing one bid of £25

Tbh, I thought it was spot on.. He's not telling you to go flat round Island, Cascades etc, he's just suggesting some cars can? My thoughts on Druids.. someone in the distant past, I forget who, suggested missing the first apex by a couple of feet, makes it easier to get to the second one. You really don't want to be wide there as you could end up on the grass at the exit. Not sure if that's what Maurici is referring to, as a safer line? (Using both apex's is possibly an aero line?) The fastest my car has been round Oulton is a 1-53.6, which I think is a fairly respectable time for the car's spec. 170bhp Pinto... somewhere near 600kg? The lines look similar to those explained in the tutoral 1-53 lap starts about 6 mins in:

No more embarrassing stains then Ian

Not quite. You will want to add some insulating bobbins to dampen vibrations as alloy rads are prone to the effects. This can push the rad forward a smidge and thus might mean a new hose or two. Although there’s probably enough leeway to cope in reality.

Friend of mine has a Lexus RC which has an interesting dash... As for the high cost of damage to high end cars like Bentleys and the like, surely that what insurance is for? Preferably someone elses... Service items like oil and filter changes, plugs, pollen filters and the like I would have thought anyone who has built a Westfield could undertake that sort of job. But there are bound to be some jobs that need specialist tools or equipment to complete and that's where a non franchise specialist could help, but they can still be costly.

Seven cars headlights were based on these

Yes agreed. Great video but definitely one for racers to trim 10ths of a second not for your first visit I think. If you listen to the narrative he does stress GT cars are different and how unforgiving oulton is, so do listen to this bit ! It's great to watch for the layout and lines but for experts only and even then, those with aero single seaters. I've never thought of island bend as flat out ! I must be miss daisy.......

What consists a service will also depend on what engine is fitted. A Pinto engine will need valve clearance checking, for example. One fitted with a timing belt might need changing even if mileage is low, etc Also on a Westfield I always go around every nut and bolt and check nothing is coming lose. And final tip is always move the damper adjusting screws, count the clicks out put a bit of good quality grease, mountain bike red grease is great, and screw back in. Many dampers have alloy bodies with a steel screw and they corrode. Make a note of every part number you use as motor factors are more and more relying on electronic cataloguing which is no use for our cars. With numbers you can cross reference easily

on the high side-- My car and my very agressive driving style are now famous, and I've apeared in the media and in the Westy calendar... On the low side-- My very agressive driving style... that makes me appear in the media and in the calendar OFF the track...

I've driven the 720s and found the rotating dash a bit of a gimmic to be honest. Yes, it does give you a great set off shift lights which maybe the standard dash can't give you, But given the likely extra weight/ possible unreliability I wasn't that taken by it. I'd much rather it was a head up display like I've now got on BMW which is great. As to what driving the car is like, just awesome, very very quick.

As WSCC members, we get a discount with Javelin. Details in the members area...