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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/03/16 in all areas
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I used the Norton uninstaller and reinstalled the new Norton that I had paid for and everything seems good. Thanks for the ideas gents.2 points
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I have a website now where all the documents are held - http://www.blinkstop.co.uk / http://www.kitcarelectronics.co.uk1 point
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It appears that I’ve owned my Westfield for 6 months! It needed re-taxing the end of last month. I’ve been on this forum almost as long. I have damper oil in my blood now and have worked for Dynamic Suspensions on very shinny stuff (part of Multimatic inc.) and Woodhead shock absorbers (now gone). I joined Spax back ~15 years ago, I became technical director about ~10 years ago and 9 months ago Managing Director. I’m primarily a straight engineer type and definitely not into the dark arts of sales and marketing. As some of you may know, Spax has manufacturer adjustable dampers for over 60 years now. We are an Original equipment supplier to the likes of Morgan Motor cars. Over the years we have made massive leaps forward in quality and performance, most of which has been my hard work. I know we don’t always have the best reputation often based on past experiences. But there are a hell of a lot of Westfield’s running about on 25 year old Spax dampers. Mine was one. Spax are now free from any supply agreements with Westfield or any of the Westfield Specialists. I have made a decision to deal direct with forum members offering trade prices and a more personal service. I have created new part numbers and mostly ignored the dampers of the past. These part numbers will not be available else ware. All dampers have 304 Stainless steel ride height threads on their bodies. They don’t corrode like plated steel or aluminium threads. “More” SVA friendly curved and radial drilled adjustable springs seats apposed to the traditional castellated ones. Main bodies are blasted, phosphated and powered coated. Fully synthetic damper oil. Dampers gas pressurised reducing cavitations, and increases the damper sensitivity. All dampers have tethlon banded pistons and shaft guides (low friction and very constant sealing). This is much better in every respect to tethlon banding. or steel piston rings. Dampers valved to suite a Westfield direct from the factory. No need for 3rd party re-valves or balancing. Front damper. Standard Track £99.99 inc VAT each · Open 325mm · Closed at bumpstop contact 270 (no packers) · Closed cell bumpstop, progressive rate, · 12 mm of removable packers to limit suspension travel for low sumps on the road, but still leaving the opportunity for much lower ride heights on the track · Rebuildable/ Revalvable Rear based on SEiW Sierra Diff £99.99 inc VAT each · Open 355 · Closed at bumpstop contact 280 · 40mm Closed cell bumpstop, progressive rate · Some trick valving in the piston to allow the wheel fast recovery after going over bumps, raised humps in the road · Rebuildable/ Revalvable Rather than rely on historical information I have based on fresh information. From your details I can also supply dampers for, live axle, wide track, other models… . I just need a little information from you which I would talk you though so there’s nothing to be scared about. Damping… The valving, supple enough for every day holy roads without over stressing the occupants and car, but still stiff enough for track days. The damping adjuster will be set on a guide setting from the factory these can be adjusted to your preference. I’m assuming most people will be using ~ using 250-350 lbs/inch springs on the front and 175-250 on the rear. Colour… By default all the dampers are SPAX yellow, we can also supply in BLACK, Post office Red, British Racing Green, Royal Blue and Silver. Additional cost £ 5 per damper If you have any Special requirements such as your using significantly different spring rates or Spherical bearings on the dampers, different lengths, these can be catered for. Contact me Direct any questions etc. Tony_Shakeshaft@Spaxperformance.com1 point
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Hi Tony, some of your responses to our posts (and Andy's) seem a little strange: BLiNK Motorsport can supply a range of dampers from different manufacturers and we have NO allegiances to any of them! At the price level you have chosen for your product we do particularly like the Protech product, not because we make a lot of money selling them but because we think the product offers extremely good value for money! We actually make very little profit selling the damper, especially since we dyno each one and provide damper plots with every unit sold. It seems strange that someone who is a director of a shock absorber company should accuse a reseller of having particular allegiances - surely you are more likely to have a strong bias towards YOUR OWN product? I think if you actually read the thread again you would see that at no point has anyone offered any resistance to your product - quite the contrary - if your product is good we would be more than happy to promote it - hence the earlier offer of providing an independent view point. As I said - we make very little profit on dampers so we are not tied to one company; we sell what products we believe are best at that price point and would more than happily recommend/sell your products if that was the case - name branding has no effect on our choice. The above quote was in response to Andy's post about the set-up we did on his car. We supplied the dampers/springs for Andy's car and we then carried out a Geo. From your response it would appear that you have assumed the car has been set 'quite stiff' You have provided some dyno plots for your dampers and I am sure you are well aware that damping rates have a large effect on 'ride comfort', far more than the spring rates do and the product you are selling is aimed at road use? The high speed compression damping rate of your damper is considerably higher than the Protech unit we supply and the compression damping forces are double - this would generally lead to a much harsher ride on the road than the Protech damper with the same springs fitted - do not assume that all race engineers set their cars up stiff! We are not here to 'bash' your product; we would love to promote it if it's better than the competition.1 point
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I am in Leicestershire burbage I am out for a drive tom if you want to meet up I will show the the cooling mod you need to do,done mine last year runs at 90 all the time warms up in about 5 mins1 point
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Can you post pictures of your cooling system as it doesn't sound quite right taking so long to come up to temperature, depending on how the car is plumbed in, mine takes about five minutes to get up to the 85/90 mark, it could be worth borrowing a infrared thermometer and checking the temp of the hoses, to determine if your gauge is reading correctly or if your car is overcooling. it was common for the plumbing layout to over cool on some cars, have a search of the forum as there are lots of good posts about it, I only mention it as if your gauge is reading incorrectly and your stopping the air flow then you could be running to hot, it's more likely your running overcooled and need to tweak your plumbing, but ether way worth checking out, hth Alan1 point
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Well we went today to mooch around the moors and watch the train from various locations. We will be going tomorrow to ride on the train itself. Here is a video I took. This was my first go to film something properly from my drone. I struggled to see the screen because of the sun and I also did not realise that there was some dew on my camera lens. I also need to play with the settings of the camera as the settings are straight out of the box. I will try again tomorrow but I hope you like the train anyway.1 point
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2x pro race 1.2 gloss black 15" et 23 used but good condition £140 free collection but will sent them plus postage cost 2X 195 50 15 toyo r888 4mm £150 plus postage 2X 205 50 15 toyo r888 3mm £150 plus postage1 point
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good evening, Back on after feeling the need to use the car again, haven't been here since 2007, So hello again to all. Simon (Cornwall)1 point
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Thanks Jeff. H&s is only a pain in the A*** when interpreted therefore implemented wrong or a jobsworth uses it as a stick to stop stuff. We have a wide and varied safety need over my departments so it keeps me on my toes. In my job description it was a simple one line "act as cluster safety coordinator" lol ... easy if your the maths dept. Most dangerous thing they have is a sharp pencil!1 point
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Interesting read........ This is my experience..... I previously ran factory Gaz shocks and no arb on my road focused Sei Westie. When geo'd using hunter alignment the outcome was very good but I had been in other Westie's which had sharper handling. So a new set of Protec's, (recommended by many Westie enthusiasts) and new Plays Kool ARB's were a winter upgrade. Having just had my Westie geo'd by Fraser only yesterday, on the same hunter alignment kit, the outcome was a revelation! Turn in was crisp, cornering confidence was much improved too, the Westie just felt more 'planted' to the road. I had more confidence in accelerating and braking too. (Camber and toe same setting, but ride height dropped 5mm) Remember Blink support mx5 race teams. Fraser and Richard have many years experience gained from road and track of both mx5 and Westfields. They know what works, hence my excitement with the step change I now have with my Westie. So my point is, for the average road Westie with an enthusiast driver, i would recommend the solution I have described on my Westie. Spax shocks may have given the same result, I will never know! What would convince the next enthusiast to choose Spax over Protec? Andy PS, I have no business interest or ties with Blink Motorsport, in Winsford, Cheshire. I am just your average road Westie owner!1 point
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I guess you have an Audi. I did say that if you own a Wessie it cancels it all out. I don't make te rules, honest.1 point
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Basically, whenever my car sees too much boost either a pipe will detach or a rod will bend. It's just inbuilt safety measures to prevent detonation...1 point
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Most of us don't bother anymore with Tyre warming Make sure you mount the strut at correct height to MSA blue book1 point