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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/01/16 in all areas
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Well spotted sir was returning from Northampton Motorsport after sort out & mapping of the new engine2 points
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Moderators note, have merged the two near identical threads on the new Sport 250 model, as you'll see if you've read this far, they were starting to get the same questions in both threads! At least the answers (such that we have) are all in one place now!2 points
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Westfield SE with injected 2.0L Zetec engine meticulously built by ex-Ford Competitions and Advanced Vehicle Operations Engineer to the highest standard with no expense spared. Registered August 2015. 2000 miles. Injected 2.0L Zetec engine - Jenvey 45 throttle bodies Raceline sump Limited Slip Diff. Wide track suspension 4 Pot front calipers Grooved disks Red Calipers, front and rear. Mintex 1144 pads 5 Speed Gearbox Quick Steering Rack Rose jointed steering column Works Bell Rapfix Racing Quick release boss Momo Team removable Steering wheel Contoured dash with Black instruments Sports Turbo Seats Carbon effect front wings Long Range fuel tank Lockable Boot box Carbon effect rear lights TRS 3” 4 point harness with TRS shoulder pads Spare wheel / carrier Heater Rear wing carbon effect stoneguard High mounted brake light Westfield Sports Turbo 3 Sidescreens – improved level over standard SE parts; mandates:- Westfield Sports Turbo3 (ST3) Roll bar and ST3 Windscreen Westfield Windscreen Wind deflectors 205 T1R Tyres 4” Headlamps Electrical looms fully encased in split sleeve cable protection. Power socket in Glovebox. Northampton Motor Sport Oil catch tank FW Front Bodywork with bonnet locks ZW Rear Bodywork with lockable boot lid Spare wheel and carrier Custom made Mohair Half hood by Softbits for Sevens with Mohair case. Hood has driver and passenger zips for easy entry. Softbits hood support bars Custom made Mohair Tonneau cover by Softbits Custom made Tunnel stowage by Softbits Custom made Car Cover by Softbits Mohair Bootbag by Softbits Chassis rivet holes all extensively impregnated with Dynax S50 and susceptible rivets Duralac dipped. All Aluminium panels protected with black powdercoat prior to build. Car is Black with Kawasaki Green nose band and 100mm wide central body stripe. Suspension setup, including corner weighting, just completed by Northampton Motorsport. Offered at way under cost for £16,800 ovno.1 point
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Not had much chance to get stuck in recently due to work being busy, but can't complain. Have had a lot of time to think about stuff though and work things through in my head, which helped when I did get a few hours at the weekend. Things will quieten down at work now after Xmas so hoping to make better progress... although I have just taken on two engine builds and (pretty much) a full MX-5 race car rebuild to be completed before early March so we shall see :lol: Anyway - bits I have done: Ended up with 3 steering racks. A de-powered MX-5 one, a 2.4 ratio Escort Mk2 one and another from a Mk1 Golf. There were a few considerations for each of these - mainly distance between tie rod ball joints (bump steer), weight / simplicity and amount of rack movement per 360 degree turn of the pinion. The standard Mazda rack gives 44mm per turn which is a 22.5 deg turn of the front wheels when the length of the steering arms on the uprights is worked through. I want something a little faster than this ideally, and it was too far between ball joints (about 640mm, I'm after 580-585mm) - could be chopped down to suit though. The Escort rack offers 52mm per turn (26 deg at the front wheels) which is pretty quick... maybe a touch too much when combined with a fairly small (300mm ish) steering wheel, but it is very light / simple and has a good ball joint distance of 583mm. I need to investigate these further but it looks like I may be able to slightly tweak bump steer by adjusting the position of the inner tie rods on the rack. They are locked off with collars at the moment but have a pin smashed in there to prevent loosening. I ended up with the Golf rack as a bit of a punt from eBay at £25 delivered. I'd read that the ball joint distance was about 550mm (chassis could be tweaked to compensate for that), but it turned out to be somewhere around 570-590mm due to the tie rods being adjustable and locked off with a lockring, result. The downside is that it only offers 36mm per turn... but I could chop the steering arms down to 80mm from 106mm to give 24deg of front wheel movement per turn. It was also designed to run with the rack behind the front hubs (Escort and MX-5 are in front), meaning I could flip the rack over and have the column to the left (rather than to the right like Mazda and Escort), which would give better clearance to the pedals. I decided on the Golf rack, so chopped / modified the tie rods ready to take some aluminium track rods with rod ends: Then found out that the input spline was a stupid size (40T spline) and all the UJs were megabucks So I've now gone back to plan B and the Escort rack... no big deal, it will still work fine! Thought I'd found the perfect wheels too - OZ Racing ones from a Formula student car, 13x7", 3.4kg each, forged, 4 with slicks, 4 with wets, advertised as the correct 4x100 fitment for Mazda - couldn't have envisaged a better setup all for £350! However... A***. Turns out they are actually something like 97-98 PCD. I've got a way around it though after some deliberation... just awaiting a 60 degree inverted dovetail cutter to arrive through the post then I can confirm it's good to go. An additional ballache I didn't really want, but worth going through for these wheels I think. Then I also found a bargain dry sump system (£400 for the lot) and couldn't resist... so much for a budget build, lol. But this does have a few benefits. 1) It will definitely not oil starve now, 2) the manifold clears the sump without modification (by less than 2mm), wooo: The oil pump goes in place of the standard water pump, meaning I need a separate electric pump now... Luckily the cooling requirements of the engine aren't huge, so only needs a tiny pump - in fact the one SBD recommend for their up-to-300bhp-turbo-nutter-Busa engine is a Bosch PAD one (15L/min), which turns out to be exactly the same pump Mercedes use to cool the gearbox on an E320... You can guess which option was cheaper I can also mount the pump almost anywhere, also really low down, so gives more options regarding radiator position. Need to sort out a way of controlling it now (sod paying £150 for a Craaaiiigg Daaaavid one) - have got thoughts about a heater fan resistor / switch from an MX-5 (just stick the pump on low for warm-up to keep things circulating and avoid hotspots - also as a manual controller for when back in the paddock to keep things moving around) plus a low temp (75-80 deg, ish) fan switch that kicks the pump in and out, running it at full beans when needed. Just need to get it all straight in my head... Anyway, had a gander inside while the sump was being swapped and it is absolutely spanking in there, can definitely believe this was a ~750 mile engine: Manifold hangs down from the sump by 75mm, so set up a 78mm tall platform and sat the engine on this in the rear part of the chassis - before I got stuck in with the welder I wanted to make sure the diff / half shafts would work and the engine cleared the chassis... Engine is about 8-10mm away from the chassis there, and lining the sprockets up puts the diff about 11-12mm from the centreline of the chassis - result. The 1.8 half shaft was 20mm shorter than the 1.6 one, so that almost perfectly puts everything back into line again. (Diff isn't going there, it was just to check the left-right spacing) It was then time to grow some balls and actually do some welding. Just tacked the rear part into place for now, in case of any severe oversights. My tacking is usually ****e, about 30% on one tube and 70% on the other or something, haha, so actually concentrated this time and it came out ok. Then re-situated the rear part to give space for the front part to get built up. Also chucked the seat in to give an idea of perspective. Yes, that is a high roll hoop, yes I did typo the dimension when I sent the drawing off, lol. Never mind, there's a couple of benefits from it being taller than planned, and at least it means even giants will be able to drive it, haha. Next up - more chassis work, then once the main outline for that is done I can move onto making wishbone jigs. Cheers! Adam1 point
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Here is a provisional list of runs, events and meetings that we will/might/could be attending during 2016. Along with our monthly meeting at the Fox and Grapes on the 1st Tuesday of the month. January, 10th, Oil Can Café, (tomorrow) April, 2nd, Emley Moor, Strines Inn, Carding Shed. May, 1st-2nd, Stoneleigh, 7th-8th, Harewood Hill Climb, Speed series. 7th, BBQ at the Carding Shed. 14th, Yorkshire 8, North, 15th, Yorkshire 8, South, June, 19th, Fathers day Classic Car Show, Harewood House, July, 1st, Car Show at Thornes Park, Wakefield, 9th-10th, Blyton Speed Series, 29th-31st, Silverstone Classic, September, 3rd, Coast to Coast, West, 4th, Coast to Coast, East. All will have it's own thread in the events section nearer the date. I hope we can get a good turn out for these, and I can remember the way for some of them.1 point
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Log book is not required if running 1c's aslong at its taxed, insured and mot'd. 1c's are still legal for use on the public highway just not to buy. GF had conformation of the msa the other day.1 point
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Yes, as mentioned earlier in the thread it's a turbo engine. It's also direct injection with variable valve control. The Ecoboost series is a pretty advanced (at time of launch) series of engines from Ford, BUT, it's also a complex series of engines. As I've said Ford US, really want the 2.0 Ecoboost to be the tuner/builders engine of choice when it comes to four pot engines, they also seem to be pushing it as a V6 replacement this means they've bent over backwards to make parts available so that it can fit into anything, in particular engine looms that are not car specific and ecu's, don't underestimate the complexity of them, controlling not just the variable cams, but variable fuel pressure etc for the direct injection (at 100's of psi!) Ford in this country did a few one offs with the 1.6 IIRC, but there's was no real Ford support for anything other than the 2.0, unless things have changed recently. However as the 1.6 Ecoboost does have appeal in Europe, there seem to be a few Independants working on it. The first hurdle is the ecu, a complicated/advanced ecu is required, we're a long way from budget ecu's at the moment! Life Racing have one and SBD have been very busy working on the engine using an MBE ecu. Other makers are starting to announce parts to - Titan are launching a dry sump kit at Autosport for instance. Several Westfield owners are working on their own 1.6 conversions. Will the factory offer a 1.6? Who knows, but unless it was significantly cheaper than the 2.0, then there's hard to see a benefit. The biggest appeal for someone like Westfield with the 2.0 currently is that they can buy off the peg Ford stuff that's tried and tested.1 point
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Evening all! So after a long talk with myself about my plans to start a new build at the same time as renovating / extending the house, common sense (Ha!) and laziness got the better of me and I bit the bullet and purchased the new car with all the hard work done for me. Unfortunately since it's arrived it hasn't stopped raining for more than a few hours to be able to take it out beyond the end of the driveway and back again! Looking forward to a long hot summer! Here she is being kindly delivered by the seller. I gather some of you on the forum around the Midlands might recognise it??1 point
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im back didn't get on with my mega bussa found it great on track but horrid on the road love old school hence gone for a crossflow this time that said this one goes very well looking forward to getting out for a few meets this year and some trackdays1 point
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You won't need a log book for a road legal car. You'll probably need proof of road tax, insurance and MOT though. Too slow again Story of my life.1 point
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MSA Log Book Barny Basically if you enter your car in Mod Prod in 100% road going condition ie as you would drive it on the road then a V5 is acceptable, if your running in Mod Prod and you take any of the road going elements away ( remember the MSA don't consider 1C tyres road legal ) then you'll need an MSA log book.1 point
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Cool news. I'm being promised around 330bhp and 380Nm with the 1.6 Ecoboost. Allegedly the internals will take 350bhp without modification. I did consider the 2.0, but it looked like it needed dry sumping and I also thought the 1.6 was more "seven-esque". Even with the 1.6 you need the V8 bonnet. I will be using the MBE 9A9 ecu for mine. Either way...washing machine on standby for the pants!!1 point
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1. KugaWestie (Gary Lucas) - Westfield SEiW 1.8 MX5 Rotrexed 2. Luke Reeves - Westfield SEiGHT 4.6 3. Chris Lowe - Westfield ST170 or if ready Westfield ST180 Ecoboost 4. Richard Betteridge - Westfield SEiW Busa 5. Lue Howard - Westfield SEiW 2.0 Zetec 6. Gerry H - Westfield SEiW C20XE1 point
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Welcome, and Ash's S2000 is a cracking example! (I was going to say Ash's old S2000, but he doesn't keep them long enough to be "old", and the word itself, just doesn't do the car justice!!!) Have fun with it, you will catch a break in the weather, we've had the odd nice day or two, even in the last fortnight of biblical floods etc. The key is to have the car ready to go, so that you can take advantage of the opportunities as they come up.1 point
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Well. Seems that after geting with the right person in spain, and after explain exactly what the situation Is... (simply that if I dont get a british national b I can't afford the international and they will get no cash anyway) there is some chance to get the msa autorized to give me a license. Anyway, will be long and complicated. If any progress, will keep you updated. Hope to write you in some weeks being able to say good things of my national federation. Thanks everybody, including all PM recieveds with support and ideas to progress!!1 point
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