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At a gnats under 170bhp in ours, the power to skill ratio is more than high enough to cause trouble if I forget myself.

IDIOTS GUIDE - I hope OK, from Jan 2016 you will need to have a Roll Bar which meets MSA Yearbook Specification K.1.6.1 or K.1.6.2 now where most people go wrong is to immediately start looking at the diagrams DONT. Instead read the wording in section K.1.6.1 or K.1.6.2 here https://www.msauk.org/assets/156-195commonregulationsforcompetitorssafetyk-1.pdf then as you are reading this it will refer you to the diagrams at the back of the section. It is also important to read section K.1.6.4 which gives you how high the bar needs to be together with other consideration that you should take into account. So that's the technical stuff and you really need to refer to that to decide, BUT FOR THOSE THAT JUST WANT A QUICK AND EASY SUMMARY ( this is just my opinion, so no liability implied or accepted) You want a bar to drawing no 1 on page 178. It should have the rear diagonals welded at the top, the bottom of the main hoop should be welded to plates which bolt onto the top of the chassis just behind the seats, it must be 5cm above the top of your helmet. The rear diagonals often need to be able to have a variable length due to slight differences in chassis manufacture from Westifeld, So often sliding tubes with reinforced mounting will be used and then bolted through each diagonal. The size and material is specified in K wording. So does a bar need to have a certificate NO, you can make one provided you are competent person, use the materials specified and meets the specification. My cage is FIA or MSA certified but doesn't meet the size specs in the wording ? This is NOT a problem, at the time of certification the cage design will have been submitted to the FIA or MSA and once approved can then continue to be manufactured to that design and material specifications. You should have either the Approval sticker on the cage or the paperwork to prove it, however the reality is that very few scrutineers will ask for this as they recognise the cages and know they are approved. But if you turn up with an obvious homemade one they may ask questions and check a bit more. Overall don't panic about this too much, however as has already been pointed out the factory RAC bar with rose joints at the top and bottom of the rear diagonals will NOT be acceptable due to the use of rose joints and smaller diameter tube. Hope that all helps, Nick

Loan and buying it as I am buying it as an investment is also a big part of the worry. Just seen my Westy again n still I stop to look, fiddle and just like it! I think i'm answering my own question - the Westy makes me happy so keep it!!

It's never going to be a show car, but just five months after posting for info on how to change the oil (I'm that much of a novice), I'm pretty chuffed to wheel this re-vamp out of my garage! Interior and seats will be a job for the winter and for those that don't know what she looked like 8 weeks ago...... Sorry to post so many pics, but I can't help myself. The bad news I will post in a couple of hours!

I've no runners on mine and have the seat well back as my lad shares my car, leaves me reaching for the peddles a bit but I changed the column for an extended one as my lads 6'5" we can both drive comfortably. No lowered floors either.

Graham, I've got some time off work tomorrow so should be there in time for the Fri night meal now.

I'm in the same boat Barny but I'm sure all will be fine

hi there - you didnt say if your building it or buying it? if you need any help - theres a lot of north east owners - not a lot of gatherings but were here somewhere

I've done 142/44 can't remember with 300+BHP. Even with 300 I think it's not enough. So it doesn't really matter how much power you have because it's never enough.

Stu, it's worth getting your local scrutineer to check as I know of other cages that use them and as it's a cage I personally don;t see a problem because like you I feel much safer with a cage on.

nice looking motor...

Well it seems to me that my cage wont comply unless I mod the rear braces which are rose jointed at present. Ironically I could remove the cage and fit a much leass safe ( imho) roll hoop and welded brace. Shame we dont go the same way as Autograss and Stuff the MSA with all their overpriced add ons. I dont see that its worth me bothering next year as the T0ssers have also deemed my 4 year old helmet U/S Anyone want to buy a sorted sprint car - albeit with a U/S cage - spose I could sell cage to track day warrior

The .gov website is easy enough to read

Why buy a 129,000 mile 964 with a targa roof when you could have one of these for the same money with 19,500 miles on it, and a better top down experience? http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/porsche/boxster-987-05-12/absolutely-stunning--porsche-boxster-s-sport-with-only-19000-miles/4630591

'Driving fun not outright speed' absolutely & even modest power gives good acceleration in such light cars. I recon around 150-180 is about right for an allround Westie.

I have some tooling that could be used to make a copy of the original Westfield Seat. In carbon of course.

I hit 124 mph with 270bhp

Thats a great help Nick Some guys have Roll over bars that have the rear struts welded at the top but use Rose joints at the bottom to assist with matching up the tolerances and fitting to the chassis brackets. Is this ok ?

A lot depends on the setup in my experience. I 'only' have 175bhp in mine but at sprints so far this year I have been quicker than a 220bhp westfield, 225bhp caterham an R500 and an arial atom. Granted the latter 2 were poorly driven but the former had a lot to do with gearing. Mine with 175bhp, MT75 box and 3.92 LSD seems to be a real sweet spot though in my opinion. Suspension has been well set up and I can drive it HARD right on the limit and it's not come back to bite me (yet!) Eventually, I will look to get it up to say 225bhp at which point you get seriously quick car if teamed up with a good all round setup. Dave

In my experience, anything other than the GT cars are not great to drive. I can't see the Porsche price bubble being a safe place to invest. At best you may have a cheap car where you have appreciation rather than depreciation. I would be amazed if it would deliver capital return against a loan after running costs. Buy it because you like it and see any appreciation or reduced running costs as a bonus

Good luck, and have a good day to all at Curborough and Loton this weekend. I'm baby sitting my youngest grand-daughter, with Mrs H. this weekend, so can't be at either meeting. See you all at Anglesey the following weekend!

A good start is ringing ACAS who will give you an unbiased view. Once you have their view then you can work out your next step.

Yup, I'm there, gonna kip over so I can watch you lot for a bit on Saturday too

Got the westy at work this morning as dropping it off to garage after work to look at misfire/fueling issue so first trip out with the half hood. Can't believe the difference it makes! Actually quite civilised (...ish) Noticeably more exhaust noise and restricts visibility a touch but really chuffed with it Support bars are a definite requirement as without them I feel it would have been bowing a fair bit in the middle. Roof bars held it just nicely and tested up to approx 70mph with little or no flapping Dave