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So I had to take the westfield roundell off the car today to get ready for a paint refurb and couldn't resist it.....

Good lines Lee and nice and committed over avon rise ... here's my run too been wanting to beat the target time for 4 years and finally did it

Car looks good and I'm sure its sounds great, hard to beat the V8 burble Hope you both enjoy it as much as we do…..and our car is nearly back on the road too Martyn

nice wheels and a top bird you have there Nem… Is that politically correct??? apologies if its not…..

Here you go on jacking points, Page 6 I think: http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/files/file/17-westfield-world-autumn-2012/

The top ball joint may not be the correct one, it should be Ford Transit '75 to '85 drag link, worth checking. They used to come with the oval locking nut but some now come with a Nyloc nut, the oval being not as thick so will go fully on the stud. The cycle wing stay mounting is only 1mm thick so should not be the problem.

Handy source of manuals here

Found the manual!. "To fit the mounts to the front upright you must cut away 3/16 from the underside of the upright...." I'm not entirely happy with Joe Public taking an angle grinder to suspension parts, so suspect this may have been changed (to a calliper bolt?) Mine were done by Westfield and have lasted. Also the top ball joint should have a "Metaloc" nut, well in 1996 anyway, and there's no spare thread. As for jacking, you need a jack with a flat pad, rather than a metal cup, or a piece of wood to fit. Your best jacking points are under the suspension mounts, but must be on the chassis tubes. If you jack on a floor panel, it will just bend. If anything slips, you'll have damage

Hello Mick, There is a FAQ on jacking points, which I am sure that someone will be along soon to locate for you. On the top ball joint question. Do you have Ford Cortina cast iron front uprights? With the Westfield cycle wing joints and the Cortina uprights they need some material machining off the surface where the ball joint nut goes to allow for the cycle wing bracket thickness and to ensure that there is enough thread protruding for safety. It sounds like this wasn't done on your car. Two options are: Get the uprights machined, removing 3/16" from the underside of the top mounting point. The build manual has details. The manual is available from several places on line, if you don't have a copy. My car had the machining done by the builder. or, Use Tiger wing stays. These locate on the three M8 holes that are in the upright and on the original car were used to hold a brake dust shield. Hope this helps. Jen

Well I went for the C63 in the end. Picked the car up yesterday and wow, what a car it is. I was rather wary of spending so much on a car, but the cost is almost verified once you get behind the wheel. A total contrast to the Mitsubishi evo it replaces. Thanks for everyone's contributions to the topic. I just wanted to make sure that I hadn't missed another possible car choice out!

Most of the towns in our area ( luckily all 10 miles away ) are expanding at an alarming rate with huge green field developments of up to 1,000 houses each. They all follow a similar pattern with a couple of 4/5 bed detached with a single garage and possibly a parking space and 4 terraced, the end two 3/4 bed with a parking space and the centre two 2/3 bed with no parking space. Our eldest with 3 cars and 4 children ( none driving yet) looked at a 5 bed and we estimated in this road of 12 houses accepting no one would park their day car in the garages there could be 30 or more cars with only 10 off road parking spaces. I would imagine this will cause the ultimate in parking rage evenings and week ends and surprised the local authority allow it, or is it what's now called " Planning Gain".

It's not Scotland road is it ? My car nearly fell off the trailer last time I followed the sat nav to Aintree !!!!!!!

Wahoo, well done Pete! Looking forward to seeing it.

Lol. Congrats my friend. Let the blatting commence.....