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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/01/13 in all areas

  1. I think you will find that polish is banned at speed series events unless you want the p*** taking etc
    1 point
  2. Looks great,my son Matthew hopes you will do instructions when its finished.
    1 point
  3. I love decent kit and would like this but it would not be used often enough to justify the space. I dread to think what a new instrument like this would cost. Good Luck with the sale.
    1 point
  4. The marlin one's identical, I looked at getting that one, but europa's a short drive from me. QRS is great, someone looks inside and there's no steering wheel. I have had people say "it's disgusting that you have to do that in today's age! When I was a boy we didn't even lock out cars!" Plus I'm thinking about getting a motorcycle chain and wearing it around my neck, like MC Hammer!
    1 point
  5. It's common, the body panels flex, you can't really prevent it. You just have to decide whether the car's for showing or driving. If it's the former be ready to fill gel coat cracks or touch up paintwork every year, if it's the latter just enjoy it and don't worry.
    1 point
  6. There isn't a lot of space between the cam cover and the bonnet/nosecone area on a Pinto engined car. Sounds like it is touching and the vibration will craze the gel coat. Might only happen on the move with air pressure on the bonnet. The engine on my car has no cam cover, or you could modify yours to be open at the top. I've seen people remove fibreglass from the nose cone where the bonnet overlaps over the cam sprocket too. My car also has crazing around the cycle wing screws. People here often epoxy their cycle wings to the wing stays, or glue them. Not done this myself. A search will show you methods. It removes the stress concentration you get around the bolt hole. Jen
    1 point
  7. http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/48731-repairing-and-painting-a-westfield/?hl=crack From the FAQ. I think there are a couple more thresds in there with bodywork info...
    1 point
  8. Progressed further with the Lego Westy. I have built a few Lego technic cars in years gone by, I started with the 8860 car chassis model. The westy is a mix of old and new style lego technic pieces. Here is a pic of the rear chassis complete with rear suspension and diff. The diff configuration is a fairly standard set up on large lego technic car models: After contemplating which engine to use for about 1 second I decided on a V8 This engine either V8 or V10 is fairly popular in a lot of current lego technic car models: The gearbox - biggest headache so far being restricted by space its limited to four speed. My first attempt had 2 forward and 2 reverse gears Finally got a configuration to work with 4 forward gears but unfortunately no reverse. The four upturned bushes to the right of the picture above the drive shaft are for the remote gear linkage: Trial assembly of parts so far. I need to do this to assemble the drive train and tweak gearbox ratios and also to position engine, gearbox and remote gear level assembly so the are all in the correct position: Once the drive train is fitted correctly I built the chassis around it connecting the rear section to the front, is this how real ones are built :
    1 point
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