Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 They went through a bad phase years ago with splits developing. But not heard any complaints of that for a long time. And no, they've no gel coat to develop star cracks in from impacts on the reverse. Having said that though, given how chewed up the surface of my rear arch protectors is, (which is AFAIK made of the same material - ABS rings a bell?), I'd still be tempted to apply the underseal protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XTR2Turbo Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 My cycle wings that WF supplied are just plastic with a carbon fibre look-a-like top surface. (Just in case anyone didn't know they were available) Hopefully they will not be as brittle as GRP and will not crack. My experience is that they are more brittle and crack very easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevip6 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 What exactly is the underseal protection? Do you have a link to a product anywhere on-line please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XTR2Turbo Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Used to be rubber coat. take a look at Kit Car Builder Solutions Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajpearson Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Great advice and write up, i shall be doing it this way when i get around to fixing my cycle wings. Might buy the stuff in preparation this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rab (bombero) Reid Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I too have the WF supplied 'carbon effect' cycle wings .. a little present to myself from Stoneleigh to replace my actual carbon ones as they don't sit quite right on my brackets and don't want to start faffing about with them. Anyway these, like the rear arch protectors are ABS plastic - they're more flexible and less prone to cracking/breaking. Commonly used material for car bumpers until around mid-late 90s .. now the **** just breaks on most cars! My question is, will Sikaflex 'bond' to the ABS?? I was seriously hoping to go down the smooth cycle wing route. Scoring the plastic will certainly provide the necessary adhesion surface but I'm unsure as to the best adhesive to use with ABS .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I tigersealed mine to the stays and they seem fine, although I've also fitted one flange headed M6 per stay too just in case. I fitted them one night with tigerseal on top of the stays and then after they were set on the secind night I added some more down the sides. I also removed powder coat and scuffed up the plastic. Admittedly they're only tested up to 50 mph so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2rrr Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Blimey Doug you must have a long drive. Any date yet. Bob :d :cry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rab (bombero) Reid Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I tigersealed mine to the stays and they seem fine, although I've also fitted one flange headed M6 per stay too just in case. I fitted them one night with tigerseal on top of the stays and then after they were set on the secind night I added some more down the sides. I also removed powder coat and scuffed up the plastic. Admittedly they're only tested up to 50 mph so far. Cheers Doug, but I'm hoping to be able to take mine off from time to time. I'd like to go down the Smokey Mow route and just need to confirm the best choice for the sticky stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirkyboy5 Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 All that was then left to do was bolt it all back into place. Washers and nyloc nuts are used on the studded fasteners, whist for the others I used M6x15 bolts with spring washers and thread locked What do you mean by thread locked?? Thanks Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Thread-lock is a special form of adhesive, some useful details on the link below. It's often used on bolts and screws where there is no lock nut, it helps prevent the fastenings slackening off due to vibration etc. It comes in a range of strengths from quite weak, for small size screws etc that will need to be removed frequently right the way through to "stud-lock" formulas that are intended to be permanently assembled. Used correctly, it also helps stop fluid leaking through bolted connections, (not uncommon to see on flywheel to crank joins for instance). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread-locking_fluid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirkyboy5 Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 So what strength would u suggest??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 This is what mine were thread locked with http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6807/HYLOMAR-4430-THREAD-LOCKER/product_info.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Yep, as Mark posted, or the blue medium strength Loctite Nut lock. (Don't use stud lock, you may well want to take the joint apart again sometime) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 here's my attempt. big heads stuck on over the weekend and fibreglass mating put on tonight top tip, dont accidentally get resin on your hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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