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Fitting Front Cycle Wings


Mark (smokey mow)

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They went through a bad phase years ago with splits developing. But not heard any complaints of that for a long time. And no, they've no gel coat to develop star cracks in from impacts on the reverse. Having said that though, given how chewed up the surface of my rear arch protectors is, (which is AFAIK made of the same material - ABS rings a bell?), I'd still be tempted to apply the underseal protection.

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My cycle wings that WF supplied are just plastic with a carbon fibre look-a-like top surface.

(Just in case anyone didn't know they were available)

Hopefully they will not be as brittle as GRP and will not crack.

My experience is that they are more brittle and crack very easily.

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What exactly is the underseal protection? Do you have a link to a product anywhere on-line please?

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Used to be rubber coat. take a look at Kit Car Builder Solutions Site

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Great advice and write up, i shall be doing it this way when i get around to fixing my cycle wings.

Might buy the stuff in preparation this weekend

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I too have the WF supplied 'carbon effect' cycle wings .. a little present to myself from Stoneleigh :d to replace my actual carbon ones as they don't sit quite right on my brackets and don't want to start faffing about with them.

Anyway these, like the rear arch protectors are ABS plastic - they're more flexible and less prone to cracking/breaking. Commonly used material for car bumpers until around mid-late 90s .. now the **** just breaks on most cars!

My question is, will Sikaflex 'bond' to the ABS?? I was seriously hoping to go down the smooth cycle wing route. Scoring the plastic will certainly provide the necessary adhesion surface but I'm unsure as to the best adhesive to use with ABS .. ???

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I tigersealed mine to the stays and they seem fine, although I've also fitted one flange headed M6 per stay too just in case.

I fitted them one night with tigerseal on top of the stays and then after they were set on the secind night I added some more down the sides. I also removed powder coat and scuffed up the plastic.

Admittedly they're only tested up to 50 mph so far.

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Blimey Doug you must have a long drive. Any date yet.

Bob :d :d :cry: :cry:

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I tigersealed mine to the stays and they seem fine, although I've also fitted one flange headed M6 per stay too just in case.

I fitted them one night with tigerseal on top of the stays and then after they were set on the secind night I added some more down the sides. I also removed powder coat and scuffed up the plastic.

Admittedly they're only tested up to 50 mph so far.

Cheers Doug, but I'm hoping to be able to take mine off from time to time. I'd like to go down the Smokey Mow route and just need to confirm the best choice for the sticky stuff! ;)

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  • 2 months later...

All that was then left to do was bolt it all back into place. Washers and nyloc nuts are used on the studded fasteners, whist for the others I used M6x15 bolts with spring washers and thread locked

What do you mean by thread locked??

Thanks

Dan

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Thread-lock is a special form of adhesive, some useful details on the link below. It's often used on bolts and screws where there is no lock nut, it helps prevent the fastenings slackening off due to vibration etc.

It comes in a range of strengths from quite weak, for small size screws etc that will need to be removed frequently right the way through to "stud-lock" formulas that are intended to be permanently assembled.

Used correctly, it also helps stop fluid leaking through bolted connections, (not uncommon to see on flywheel to crank joins for instance).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread-locking_fluid

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Yep, as Mark posted, or the blue medium strength Loctite Nut lock. (Don't use stud lock, you may well want to take the joint apart again sometime)

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  • 10 months later...

here's my attempt. big heads stuck on over the weekend and fibreglass mating put on tonight

20130610_214330_zpsfd5e329a.jpg

top tip, dont accidentally get resin on your hand :(:d

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