mak1 Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 anyone know if they are available from factory for narrow body or from anybody else? thanks mik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard M Green Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 I'm admitting my ignorance, but why would the Panhard rod need to be adjustable, or do you mean that it is no longer possible to get a new Panhard rod for a narrow bodied car? If the latter then I would suggest get one for a wide body and have it 'cut and shut' using a suitable diameter sleeve welded across the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunny Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 Try rally & competition on 01782 523664. they may be able to help. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mak1 Posted July 3, 2003 Author Share Posted July 3, 2003 the prop i'm using is wider than the last one. since the body is sitting slightly off centre i figure i will need an adjustable rod so the prop will clear the tunnel at all times. - will try rally and comp tomorrow - thanks mik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furtive Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 I'm admitting my ignorance And I'm admitting mine... What's one of them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu999 Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 the prop i'm using is wider than the last one. since the body is sitting slightly off centre i figure i will need an adjustable rod so the prop will clear the tunnel at all times. - will try rally and comp tomorrow - thanks *IF* I am understanding this correctly, I'm not sure that offsetting the rear axle with an adjustable panhard rod is the way forward to prevent the propshaft catching... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard M Green Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 For Furtive's benefit: the Panhard rod runs across the car horizontally just behind the rear (live) axle. It links a horizontal fore/aft pivot on the near-side of the chassis to a horizontal fore/aft pivot welded to the off-side of the axle casing. The vertical movement of the axle is controlled by the four trailing arms, but due to their rubber bushes they offer very little control of lateral movement of the axle. The Panhard rod is what provides that lateral control. However, an inherent weakness of the Panhard geometry is that the axle end of the rod describes an arc and as such causes the axle to move (ever so slightly) across the car as the suspension goes into bump or droop. There are some very clever designs, such as the late Major Mallock's 'woblink', that provide the required lateral control without lateral shift. Back to Mik's original point: I tend to agree with Stu999 that using the Panhard rod to set the quiescent axle position is not ideal since it puts an immediate, and undesirable, preload into the trailing arm bushes. It also means that the car will always be 'crabbing' i.e. the rear wheels will not be directly behind the front ones. That should make cornering interesting......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 Edited, 'cos Richards explaination is *much* better than mine was..... the prop i'm using is wider than the last one. since the body is sitting slightly off centre i figure i will need an adjustable rod so the prop will clear the tunnel at all times Er, I'd have though the biggest problem in the tunnel isn't prop width, but drive flange diameter. Are you sure you have the smallest drive flange in there? There are two sizes, and the largest of the two definitely won't fit. Small ones were available from the factory, and I'm sure the various rally spares vendors will have them too....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 Mornin' Mr Green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard M Green Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 Mornin' Blatman. YHM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mak1 Posted July 4, 2003 Author Share Posted July 4, 2003 ah...yes blatman it is the drive flange that i've got the problem with and not the prop. The one i've got does 'fit' but ive only got minimal clearance one side in the tunnel...i'll measure the diameter later and post here. I had a new prop made up when i put the vx engine/getrag gearbox in. The prop has to go in from the back as it's too wide(drive flange) to go in from under the tunnel. enlightened and slightly less ignorant mik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 YHM Not yet I wanted to talk to you about something anyway, so I'll be mailng back as soon as yours arrives........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard M Green Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 The problem with swapping live axle diff front drive flange is that you're supposed to fit a new crush washer and go through the correct preload setting procedure....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Albert Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 It also means that the car will always be 'crabbing' i.e. the rear wheels will not be directly behind the front ones. That should make cornering interesting......... Though not necessarily slower, I remember Syd Fox driving Mac's Hawke FF in the 70s for half a season with the chassis twisted after a shunt so that the rear wheels were aligned about 75mm to right of the fronts. Judging by his results (as he nearly always beat me, as well as everybody else, I got to look at the back of his car quite often) it didn't seem to slow him down much. When asked he said the're all pointing forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mak1 Posted July 4, 2003 Author Share Posted July 4, 2003 thanks for all the input folks. It is only mm's that i need to move it over so i think the adj. rod route might be the best...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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