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The Rebuild Diary...


devans414

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Chassis and paint. Unless the powder coating is done properly it will peel off and rust will re-appear.

Don't use Hammerite because it's too brittle and will crack with stone chips letting rust occur under the paint.

Best stuff is chassis paint which is very black and soft. It does not crack when stone chipped.

My recommendation would be sandblast to bare metal, red lead (modern equivilant) acid etching undercoat and chassis paint.

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Frosts are the people you need.  (Tried to insert a link but it didn't work - twice.  I guess it's too early in the morning)

Rory's Dad

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Another vote for Por 15 - Clicky from me; do heed the warnings about not getting it on your skin, it IS one of the hardest things to get off your hands once it's set. It even takes ages to wear off skin  :blush:  :(

One thing to note though, it's not UV stable, so they also do a top coat for it, intended for any visible areas. I'd just be tempted to get the whole chassis covered.  :t-up:

Have used the Por 15 to recoat the flakey/weathered areas arrant the front of the chassis and around the rear suspension and it's lasted really well. (Far better than the original powder coat)

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...oh yeah and I found this ruddy great big hole in the chassis and its not from rust!!!

DSC03525.jpg

You sure ? It looks like its rusty and  been painted over from here  :t-up:

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· Posted on Jul. 05 2010,07:36

Chassis and paint. Unless the powder coating is done properly it will peel off and rust will re-appear.

Don't use Hammerite because it's too brittle and will crack with stone chips letting rust occur under the paint.

Best stuff is chassis paint which is very black and soft. It does not crack when stone chipped.

My recommendation would be sandblast to bare metal, red lead (modern equivilant) acid etching undercoat and chassis paint.

:bangshead:  Learnt that the hard way!!! (Hammerite)

Thanks for the advice on chassis paint, will have a more detailed look later. Want I would like is for it to like it has been powder coated rather than be able to see brush marks  :bangshead:

I see the POR15 can be sprayed, is a spray gun something that could be hired to paint the chassis, if so where from?

Thinking that I am going to have a look at hiring a compressor to 'do' all the rivets and possibly the painting?

I have also now sourced build stands or rather build stand and its on castors which is a bit of a bonus!

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Blasting was £100 at a local place near Ramsey, pricey as the poeder is more difficult to blast off than paint.

The chassis was zinc phosphated and then powdered at Leamings in St Neots, it cost me £50.

Sorry for the late reply I kinda lost track of the thread.

Chaz.

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Dave

Have used POR 15 and its very good stuff

BUT as Dave says above it needs treating with caution

Don't spray it unless you have the proper gear

Applying by brush is safer

They recommend using their 'Metal Ready' first before top coasting with POR 15 and then with a final coat of chassis Black or similar

This is one we did earler...

(Sorry don't have a finished photo but this shows the 'Metal Ready' applied, it looked good when it was all finished)

PB270056.jpg

Feel free to give me a call Mate, you have the number    :t-up:

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remember welding up the rivet holes on my striker many moons ago although I would rather let the memory go TBH

have fun  :laugh:

my opinion on the chassis - get it properly sandblasted as this provides the best key and if you decide to use paint get it done immediately before the rust starts which is quicker than you may think - i will probably get my local blaster to spray some etch on

I seem to remember with POR15 they recommend you have a little rust before painting?

after investigation I probably wont be doing any powder coat on the chassis as I want the option to repair as needed - scratch powder coat when rebuilding or if you decide to weld an extra bracket on and your stuffed

keep going at it  :D

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  • 1 month later...

Goooooood Evnin!

Finally managed to get some garage time today, have been really busy with work of late and a baby in the house has made spare time impossible!

Mark Perks came round during the week and was a fantastic help! We started to strip the engine down to see what sort of condition it was in, thankfully it looked pretty good. Looks like a lot of work has recently been done with it, it was immaculate up top! Bottom end in good shape n'all so all the hard earnt pennies can be spent on goodies! Carbs are off and getting stripped down, cleaned and rebuilt. Manifold and Cam Cover have also gone on holiday to Perksy's and will be back with a bit of colour. Today I wire brushed the engine and painted it, looks so much better already :cool:  

DSC03561.jpg

I have also started to prep the chassis for welding and painting. Not found anything lurking under the paint so all good so far.

DSC03564.jpg

SOS : I need someone to help with a 'spot' of welding. (Engine Mounts, Harness Fixings etc)

Excellent rates

Apply within

If anyone could help or put me in touch with someone, I would be very grateful!

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looking really good - what paint did you use on the engine? I like the matt finish
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Cleggy,

I got the paint from HalFrauds today, a couple of people recommended it. Black matt enamal. Pretty pleased with the result.

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Update :

Cam Cover Finished

CamCover.jpg

Inlet Manifold Cleaned & Painted Ready for Assembly

InletManifold.jpg

Carb's Pre Cleaning

Carbs.jpg

Carb's Cleaned and Ready For Re-build

CarbsCleaned.jpg

There's a Type 9 Gearbox that's turned up in me garage aswell now     :oops:      :suspect:      :D

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