nikpro Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Surprising choice IMO you have compromised both road and track performance. and If you have gone for crossply slicks you've got to geo the car for every track day then re-set after as they won't like the same camber settings. Out of interest, what are the basic camber/geo changes required when moving from radials to cross-plys? Cross ply's require less camber (typically 0-1 deg negative camber) than a radial tyre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tango Squadon Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 I run r888s on the road (and track) and think they're great. I've had the tyres for a year now (2000 miles + 4 trackdays) and they've lasted remarkably well. However, just got some second hand slicks. Along with suitable rims and fitting, a set came to £100. As they're used tyres I would of been happy if they produced grip equivilent to 888s. However, they were much better and I was delighted with the cornering speed and how late I could brake. The tyres got much warmer than the road tyres (I guess that's normal?) especially the rears. I probably need to get wider tyres on the rear (Duratec engine, 16/53 all round). Circuit was pretty much all clockwise corners and I noticed only inside 2/3rds of offside tyres wearing so suggested camber changes may work. I have another trackday this weekend and, assuming it's dry, I'll be on the slicks again. Another good thing is the RAC rollbar on the car makes a perfect tyre rack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Everall Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 So you do have a dry sump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tango Squadon Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 So you do have a dry sump? Yep. Thankfully. I knew it would come in useful one day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 I dont know your car but if using slicks it needs a dry sump I'm not convinced, but when my engine goes BANG I'll come back and say "yep, you were right" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 if its a VX yes , if its a Zetec there are certain sumps which work well with slicks as thats what they were designed for ... only your oil pressure gauge can tell you ... And yet again it depends on so much , and most of it is down to driver ability levels . someone quick who knows how to drive on slicks properly will need a dry sump and uprate suspention bushes etc , and keep an eye on chassis stress points ,and properly spanner check the car after every outing ... you 4 or 5 trackday a year driver whos not had slicks before will think the grip is awsome , not really be stressing much on the car and have a blast and be happy . when running slicks properly everything works ALOT harder . brakes suspention chassis , and engine cooling system , oil system etc etc etc .... it may sound like teaching your gran but some people really don't see it . then they get quick , then things break or go bang ..... tis just the way of the world I just wish i didn't know how much 100 lap old slicks are to fresh ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Everall Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Harv is spot on. Potter round and you may be ok but if you can "drive a bit" even on old slicks you are taking a big risk without dry sump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brindle Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 I also dont have a dry sump (Zetec), but have a baffled modified sump. The slick thing was an issue - and for this reason, on the last track day I videoed my gauges on a couple of laps to see what was happening under braking. into the heaviest braking area I went from 100mph to 20mph at max braking and the oil pressure never dipped at all. But I guess that may beg the question, how quickly does a VDO oil pressure gauge update / read? Is it too simple to assume that if the pressure gauge always reads good - 4 bar+ in my case on the track, than you are going to be OK? Bear in mind that a dry sump kit might cost £750, I can get a new engine for that if I blow mine up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Everall Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Often front to rear surge is ok rather than lateral g force in cornering. Gerrards at Mallory or any high speed ,long corner can be disaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Bear in mind that a dry sump kit might cost £750, I can get a new engine for that if I blow mine up! Depends, most likely case, if you just spin a shell, no one but yourself to blame/take it on the chin. Alternatively, Rod through the block, spin on your own oil, feel a bit of a wally, maybe a bit of car damage as you hit the Armco. Worst case, loose your house after the car behind goes off, millionaire playboy driver killed at the wheel of his Fezza, family sue. OK, I know it's stretching a point to extremes, but it's not just yourself that might be affected. Not saying you absolutely have to have a dry sump by the way, but as an absolute minimum, a PROPERLY baffled and or gated type that's been designed for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 I also dont have a dry sump (Zetec), but have a baffled modified sump. The slick thing was an issue - and for this reason, on the last track day I videoed my gauges on a couple of laps to see what was happening under braking. into the heaviest braking area I went from 100mph to 20mph at max braking and the oil pressure never dipped at all. But I guess that may beg the question, how quickly does a VDO oil pressure gauge update / read? Is it too simple to assume that if the pressure gauge always reads good - 4 bar+ in my case on the track, than you are going to be OK? Bear in mind that a dry sump kit might cost £750, I can get a new engine for that if I blow mine up! who's sump do you have ? If its a dunnel/scholar sump then it was designed to be used with slicks in a series where they could only run a wet sump ... a few years back so if everything is running well its fine I never ran electrical gauges , capillary type water temp/oil temp ,and capillary oil pressure are a must as they give a true there and then reading that's not damped at all .... a vdo gauge with a sender is likely to have been far enough behind for you to have lunched an engine before it tells you. Also have a big oil pressure light . and kill switch if you seriously track , but being fair , if its a hose off or similar then i doubt you'll catch it in time .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B5234FT Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Anyone got any pictures inside a good baffled sump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 won't tell you much just looking , and at 200 quid , if you need one just buy one . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B5234FT Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 right, heres a picture of a sectioned sump from below: the white lines are the vertical baffles and then theres a mid plate and upper windage plate in steel too. Its being welded to shorten it, and fit some wings to give back the lost capacity. Where is the best plate toput the wings? (Oil filter is at the front of the engine) and will that baffling arrangement survive harsh cornering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
les Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Hi I have R888 on MX5 based westfield have done 2 heavy trackdays and 1200miles on the road miles hardly any wear on tyres.... very tail happy on a damp road sticks like ............ on warm dry roads / track. recomended yes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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