minisweeper Posted August 13, 2008 Author Share Posted August 13, 2008 Hi Rich - very useful thanks. The bolt hole is a bit further away on the dellortos but I'm sure I'll be able to put something together.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 Right. I think I'm all done and I've installed the software on my laptop and hooked up my USB to Serial port connector but the configurator software just says 'could not connect to port'. I've connected to it in hyperterm and i get random blurb from it so I'm pretty convinced it's working but for some reason the program's not picking it up. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westford Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 If it's anything like other USB to serial adapters then it will create a virtual serial port on your laptop using the next unused serial port number. In the software to the configurator you will have to select this port to use, as the laptop will use the standard serial port numbers by default. It's either this.........or something completely different Westford Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 Yeah - Mine sets itself to COM18 or COM19 depending which USB port I plug it into. I've tried setting that in the program but it refuses to work. What's more, I just grabbed the firmware updater and firmware off the autosportlabs website and I've managed to do a firmware update just fine. That pretty much guarantees that the COM port is working fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Not all the USB to serial adapters work with all uses. IIRC, somewhere on one of the Megasquirt sites is the name/spec of the chipset in the converter that you need to look for. Or you *could* try a PCMCIA RS232 card in yer lap top. That *should* work out the box, but I have never tried one so no promises, and it prob'ly ain't cheap either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 Alright I found an old desktop PC and moved it out to the garage. I'll try and find a laptop at work cause it'd be much easier but this will do for now. Does anyone have a map for a 1.7 crossflow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammy Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 There is a default map for x/flow on the megajolt site , but if you are stuck pm me with your email address and I'll send you mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 Which default map do you refer to? I downloaded the 'safexflow' and the 'xflowmap' which I think were designed for an engine with 150bhp whereas mine runs about 130. I put the 'safexflow' on to see what happened and the idle speed seemed to jump up. Is this normal? It idled at about 800 on no map the same as it did on the old ignition system and that seemed about right. I could move the idle screw but it seems I might just need to sort a proper map out? What power does yours run at? My email address is g at int0rw3b dot com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammy Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 I used the default "safe x/flow" map to start with then adjusted that over time to get the car running at its best ( mainly changing the part trottle map). The idle speed will depend greately on the ignition timing and you can adjust it to give the idle speed you want - Bear in mind with the old dizzy the carbs may have had to be set a bit more closed than ideal to get the idle rpm. ( what you really need to do is get the butterflys in the correct position to ensure good progression, then sort out the idle speed with the ignition timing. ( you can be a smart a** and set a cell at 500, 800, 900rpm then set the 500 at say 12 deg 800 at 7 deg, 900 at 6deg then go into the map you want fro higher rpm -this will help stablise the idle speed as the extra advance at 500 will push the revs back up !). Fro now just use your lap top to alter the timing and pull the idle speed down . Before you do tho calibrate the throttle pot to ensure you are on the right part of the map Mine is about 115bhp ( from NMS rolling road) I've sent you a couple of maps -have a look at them. I think full advance is 33 deg (wide open throttle) - I would not go past that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 17, 2008 Author Share Posted August 17, 2008 Yeah I've calibrated the TPS but the rest of it is pretty foreign to me at this stage. Thanks for the maps though - which one are you running at the moment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammy Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 none of them ! The map i'm using is at work on the laptop ! -Its basically the safe map with extra part throttle advance. Just get it running then try different maps or adjustments - problem is to aviod pre-ignition, which is hard to hear in a westfield, hence don't increase the total advance. I tinkered with the part throttle map to get the best runnig and pick up. I played with the map over a period of time to see what made a difference. Really it needs aroling road set up but thats hard/££. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 17, 2008 Author Share Posted August 17, 2008 Man it's good to be out and about again. It's knocking on a year since I last had a proper drive in it and even then it was troublesome so it's going to take a while to get back used to it but it feels b****y fantastic anyway. Still not sorted the idle problem out cause I figured taking advantage of the lack of rain was more important. I'll try and tinker with it over the next few evenings and see what I can achieve. I definitely think it's going to be worth a rolling road session though and there are a few other tinkering's I wouldn't mind getting someone else to do. Think I might enjoy it as it is for the rest of this year and get it booked in somewhere next spring while keeping my fingers crossed for a trouble-free and sunny 2009! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stussysoil Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Great news mate, I bet you are delighted to get it running, Bring on some sun and we can meet up for a blat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichP Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Does the crank position sensor have to be pointing at the missing tooth on the trigger wheel at exactly 90 degrees btdc or do I only need to worry about getting it pointing at the trigger wheel properly with a ~1mm gap? Cheers Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cng1 Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 As long as you are close you can trim it on the ECU once you have confirmed the position with a timing light. The sensors are pretty tolerant both of gaps a lot smaller and somewhat larger than 1mm as long as the wheel is concentric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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