Hammy Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Where would you suggest I read about the ignition advance etc? I had a good nose round the autosportlabs site and got a better idea of what's involved with the install but I didnt see anything about how the system actually improves things. You can can get maps for your engine as downloads from the MJ site. Improvements to performance are mainly due to the fact the ignition is now mapped. With your existing dizzy, I expect you do not have vacum advance which would otherwise give the extra advance you need on part throttle. Wthout vac advance you only have a single curve of advance at different revs. (as its mechanical in operation the advance curve is crude too and often wrong for a tuned car)) MJ takes a signal from throttle position and also engine revs - this allows part throttle advance to be added via a map or set of curves of different advance for different throttle opening and revs. This results in smoother part throttle operation, better pick up, throttle response and economy. As its all electronic the advance curve is accurate, what your engine needs, and consistant. The spark quality good, giving better performance at high revs. And don't forget the easy shift light options!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jago Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 just to add my bit a firm called bestek do a kit for a xflow which includes sports coil bosch dizzy and electronics for£135 its a nice bit of kit easy to fit as well ,hope this helps you in your choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 Right guys following pay day I've gone for the Megajolt kit from Triggerwheels - i thought I could ponder it forever but hopefully since I've put my money where my mouth is I'll get round to fitting it. I've a feeling it's going to stretch me but hopefully it will be worth it in the long term and to be honest i'm quite looking forward to playing around with ECU Maps etc Would absolutely love to get the thing up and running this weekend if the weather is going to be anything like the last one...is there anything I should be doing now in preparation? (bearing in mind the car is off the road anyway) p.s. My offer of a beer/bbq/cash still stands if anyone fancies dropping by and giving me a hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 1, 2008 Author Share Posted August 1, 2008 Evenin' all. Megajolt kit arrived today - step 1 mark up 90 BTDC on the trigger wheel...easy. Step 2, mount the trigger wheel on the car....hmmmmm. What's the best way of undoing the crank pulley bolt? I've read in other threads that I need to put a wedge in somewhere, stick it in 4th, and get plenty of leverage - where exactly do I put the wedge and what are the chances of me breaking something else in the process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 You need to jam the "wedge" in to the flywheel teeth. I use a big pry bar to keep the engine still. Make sure you have good engagement. You don't want to snap a tooth off the flywheel. Get a *good* socket on the crank pulley and use as long a breaker bar as you can find, and extend it with a piece of pipe/scaffold pole/whatever, and ease it undone. No sudden movements, as they may shake yer mate loose at the flywheel. Gradual pressure is what's required. It's very much a two man job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 2, 2008 Author Share Posted August 2, 2008 How do I get at the flywheel teeth? Is that a case of removing the starter motor? I suppose another question is - how on earth do I get it done up so tight again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnson Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Yes easiest way is to remove the starter. When doing it up just wedge it the other way . It also depends if you have any of the stoneguards between the engine and box as you might be able to get in that way. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 2, 2008 Author Share Posted August 2, 2008 Hmm. I devised an alternative method of getting it undone but I think I'll have to resort to the flywheel method to get it back on. Now I just need to get a bracket made up for the sensor. I bought the universal one from triggerwheels but it looks like the one Hammy made up for his install will be a lot neater so I think I'll copy it... Any hindsight advice? Would you mind taking a few closer pics if possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammy Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Method that usually works is to use impact. Put car in gear with handbrake on and hit the socket extension bar used on the pulley with a hammer. I'm not happy with wedging against the ring gear as breaking a tooth off is a big disaster. I don't have any more close up pictures and the engines back in the car now! The trigger wheel has a small spacer behind it - between it and the pulley and I used a longer bolt to hold it in place. It doesn't need to be b****ked up that tight. The hole in my trigger wheel was just a tad too big and I shimmed it with a bit of tape around the bolt (sounds a bodge but its effective in centrering the wheel). The angle bracket for the sensor picks up on a water pump bolt and a timiing case bolt - a couple of washers here. I scribed a line at 90 deg to the missing tooth on my wheel, painted the wheel and fitted it just before it was dry to lock in place - aligning the scribed mark with the crank sensor, when the engine was at TDC. Run the motor on EDIS only ( with Megajolt unplugged) and check it is firing 10 deg BTDC if not adjust the wheel position. After fixing rotate the engine by hand to check the gap between the toothed wheel and the sensor is consistant all the way round - I set it about 50 thou ish by eye. My tape had worked and it was spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 OK After a few evenings work I've managed to fashion a bracket for the crank position sensor: to my eyes that looks like less than 3mm and pretty well in line with the trigger wheel. Does it look suitable? I've not checked that the gap is the same all the way round but the bolt is the ideal fit for the hole so it aught to be... Then I need to get it lined up correctly for 90BTDC and I should be golden? Am I right in thinking that now I can put a wiring loom together and connect up the EDIS and the coil pack and it should start up? Does anyone have any examples of where they've mounted these 2 items? Where can I take a 12V ignition feed from on the crossflow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenko Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 It looks a little too far away to me..I would aim for around 1-2mm.......... For the 12v you need it from the switched side of the ignition - and you also need to make sure MJ sees 12v while cranking. Should be easy to buzz out a suitable place to connect to close to your fuse box........ When I did mine I mounted it on the rear of the scuttle on the passanger side of the car - That way, it's out of the way of heat from the engine. Then drilled a hole through and put a rubber gromit in to protect the wires going through.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammy Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 My WWW has some pics of mounting positions. I took the live feed for the lot from the LT supply that used to go to the coil -on my car there was a connector with live and rev counter connections linking to the lucas eletronic system that I replaced. I just made up a new connector and went from there. Yes should go on EDIS and coil pack only should fire at 10Deg BTDC. EDIS on the bulkhead and coil pack on bracket off the bell housing top bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 Well I've taken the old coil off and there's a pretty ideal space for the coil pack and there's even room above that on the bulkhead for the edis module so fingers crossed I can get it all in nice and tidy. I tried a multimeter on the spade terminal which used to connect to my coil + and it seems to give a steady 10-12V feed on ignition and cranking. Thumbs up! Is the coil - cable a suitable ground? I think it's connected to the old distributor somehow so it might not be? Presumably I can just ground out onto the chassis otherwise? I'm just looking at the wiring for the EDIS module. According to the diagram on the autosportlabs site it should work like this: however mine seems to go like this: 1 - PIP 2 - Not used 3 - SAW 4 - also goes into the shielded cable containing PIP and SAW but I dont know what it's meant to do... 5 - VR Sensor (unshielded) 6 - VR Sensor (unshielded) 7 - Seems to be the shield for 1,3,4, not connected to anything else. 8 - +12V 9 - Ground (but doesnt seem to connect to 7 shield) 10 - Coil A 11 - Not used 12 - Coil B Has anyone else found theirs as above (i.e. VR sensor not shielded as expected and ground not connected to shield)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cng1 Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 What you've got sounds pretty normal. The VR shield is asingle overall braid that goes round both the VR sensor connections rather than an individual screen round each one. The shield is often connected up to the other ground connections a little way upstream from the connector. Just connect the sheild from the twin core cable you are using for the VR sensor up to pin 7. All the grounds are connected up to a single plane inside the EDIS module so it doesn't really matter which one you connect it up to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted August 9, 2008 Author Share Posted August 9, 2008 F*CK ME IT ACTUALLY WORKS! Just put the loom together for the VR sensor/coil pack/edis module and plugged it all in. Turn the key and vroom it jumps into life. After 12 months of not running I'm absolutely gobsmacked!! It's like having a proper car! No idea why I didnt do this 3 years ago.... Still got to hook up the megajolt and tidy everything up but I'm seriously happy right now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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