Richgm Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Timing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJD Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Hi, Just read the post, Have you def got those leads on the right plugs? it may be worth popping the dizzy cap off and turning the engine to TDC \ No1 firing etc etc to check. Also, check the dizzy cap for cracks that may cause a poor spark and that the point gap is OK. Are you running DCOE's? If so are you letting the chambers fill with fuel before firing and giving the loud pedal numerous good pumps. I've read posts that claim 3 pumps of the pedal will be enough but my xflow on 40's fires first time from v.cold after a whopping 12 (no signs of flooding either). Are the connections to the starter solenoid nice n' tight as well? Sure you'll crack it soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammy Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Agree plug leads worth a triple check, with engine at TDC for No 1 cylinder AND both valves closed on that cylinder ( rockers "Up"), then the rotor arm should point at the plug lead for number one cylinder; others then follow as per the firing order around the cap in the direction it rotates ( can't recall hit the starter and watch!). My money is on this as you've seen smoke. If thats right, the basic timing is about right and you are getting fuel (can you hear a slight spraying from the accel pump and smell fuel with the air cleaner off when you pump the throtte, and you've a spark (crank with a plug lead off connected to a spare plug resting on the engine ( away from the carbs!) - then it has to go ! If you are not too sure about fuelling drop a 1/2 tea spoon full down the chokes and see if it fires. Whilst you are there take the oil cap off -hit the starter and check you can see the valves opening/closing. worth a check and easy! [3 pumps aren't enough for me either- 6 at least ! ] * Checking the basic timing depends on your dizzy type - probably easiest for now is to fix a spark plug and lead to the coil HT connection , rest the plug on the engine and turn the motor over with a spanner, see if it sparks about TDC or slightly before ( I say use the coil connection so the motor wont fire and break your arm), "about" is near enough for it to run. If you have points you can measure the voltage across the points as you turn the motor over and watch for them opening and compare with the timing marks. Brave & desperate people have been know to twist the dizzy back and forth whilst cranking, not recommnded but I have done it ( can get soem nasty back fires). still no go? Have you removed the dead mouse that was hibernating up the exhaust - use a bit of wire to check it nots bunged up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted April 10, 2008 Author Share Posted April 10, 2008 Crikey...lots of points to consider here I might have to print them off and run through them when my head's stopped spinning. Idiots question first: how do i turn the engine over manually and how do i know when it's at TDC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
congorobot Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 QUOTE how do i turn the engine over manually and how do i know when it's at TDC Put a socket onto the crank bolt and shift it with the ratchet. Also remove no. 1 plug and use somethink like a long screwdriver to feel the top of the piston and its position. You could try swapping the plug leads round 180 deg. and seeing if that works first?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted April 10, 2008 Author Share Posted April 10, 2008 Well I'm about 99% certain the plugs are in exactly the same order as they were for the whole of last year. Where's the crank bolt? (N.B. I've not actually looked at the engine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankczechbook Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 time to phone a friend? the crank bolt is in the middle of the crank pulley which will be driving your alternator and water pump...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammy Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Where's the crank bolt? (N.B. I've not actually looked at the engine) In the centre of the crank pulley - the pulley on the bottom front of the engine. If run your fnger around the edge you will find a small notch. If you align this notch with the marks on the crank case then you have TDC. looking from the front of the car, these "marks" or ridges are in the 2 O'clok position if you stna in front of the car lookinging at the engine. If you look at my WWW and megajolt upgrade page the first picture is of me holding a toothed wheel in front of the crank pulley of the engine. Just above my hand ( first finger knuckle) are the marks that show TDC in the alloy cover- if you look closely (on your car!) they have stamps for 4, 8, 12deg Before TDC too You've asked the audience, I agree it might well be time to ring a friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted April 21, 2008 Author Share Posted April 21, 2008 Well here's some progression.....it started!! Following the 'give it a good few pumps' advice i pumped it 8 or so times and turned it over and off it went. I'd always thought 4 was a bit of a special number (4 cylinders n all that) so I'd avoided doing it more so as not to flood it. So anyway it runs with a few good coughs and splutters for maybe a couple of minutes and then gives up. Is this likely to just be general grumpiness after not running it for 6 months or is there something else I should look at based on this behaviour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu999 Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 Will it start again instantly, or do you have to give it a few gos to get it running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshalla Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 How fresh is the petrol ? Mine is always a bit sluggish until it gets some fresh fuel - even after only a couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted April 21, 2008 Author Share Posted April 21, 2008 Aye the petrol has aged slightly by now I'd guess a few weeks out - I'll get some more tomorrow.. It usually starts fairly soon after but not immediately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted April 22, 2008 Author Share Posted April 22, 2008 Right well I got it moving tonight and it took me up to the petrol station and round the bypass quite nicely. Haven't pushed it too hard and it's still a bit warm at low speeds but at least it runs which is a massive step in the right direction. I'm going to check the fan connections etc and swap the thermometer and see if that improves things. I'm also quite tempted to book it back in at the bogg bros so they can cast their expert eye over things and make sure it's all hunky dory - i'd feel much more confident if they'd said was ok than me. Chris - I've swapped my own coil plugs and leads back so I think I should be able to drop your stuff off when I get some spare time... have you got your car back yet? Thanks for all the help and guides guys - fantastic as usual. It does seem that after all that all it needed was a good battery charge and a few more pumps on the throttle though!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stussysoil Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Hi Gerrard, That is good news, westie not back yet but getting there slowly. Give us a bell when you want to drop the stuff off. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minisweeper Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 Right then - would someone just mind clarifying the following for me please? I've had a look in the haynes but as it's for the standard engine i guess they dont normally have this exact cooling set up: Pipe 1A is the other end of pipe 1B. What does this pipe do? Pipe 2A is part of pipe 2B. This pipe also runs into the engine block between the cylinders. What does this pipe do? Am I right in thinking that 3 controls the fan? Is 4 an 'expansion tank' or a 'header tank'? Are these the same thing? Should it have coolant in or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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