Gavin Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Your making me all jelous playing with your new upgrades. Not got mine yet !!! Westfield have still not got my ECU and expect it to take around another 10 days before it arrives from MBE !!! If you don't remember I had to purchase an ECU aswell, as my car currently has the stadard Ford one. Really is starting to drag now, how long does it take to manufacture/post an ECU !! At least 10 days.. I guess But it's well worth it, or it will be. I did order it over 2 months ago !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikpro Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Matt, the problem is definately with your TPS voltage; it's way to high if 0.71 is the lowest you can get. Make sure you have slack in your throttle cable and check TPS voltage rises as you open the throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 RR curve as received from WF (soon to appear in the magazine too I believe) There is a good torque curve IMHO with good low-end torque, but the wiggle, as has been seen before, does not seem right, though I notice there a bit of a wiggle in Jack's curve too but at 2700 and not as pronounced. Power difference will in part be the cams. Good to hear what Nobles can do though. Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAT1800 Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 Nikpro, I wasn't clear in my post, but the tps was correct, it was only part way through fiddling with various bits that I was unable to adjust the tps back down to .71. When the butterflies fully closed I can get the .71-.69 but then it was idling far too slow. I'll set it back to this then try opening the idle bypass screws to improve idle. I haven't checked the tps voltage rises with throttle, would this be the case with the engine not running, or would it need to be running to notice the rise? As far as the graphs go, if it's a smooth line thats needed then IMO, the first graph looks slightly better? But this may be more down to the actual graph looking better IYSWIM. I know we've discussed that you can't beat an individual RR session for set up, and if I can get mine running at least, I think it'll be the first thing I do. As even if I get mine all running propperly I'm a little confused why both mine and Jack's should be running so Rich? I'll give it another go tonight...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Rich is safe. As I'm sure I mentioned on the original bulk buy thread, whilst the map supplied may be OK, each one will need to be tweaked to suit each individual car. The map supplied may well be 90% there, but it's the final 10% that will transform the car, and it is usually well worth chasing most of the minor tweaks... IMHO of course... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvezdochka Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Due to work commitments I haven't started fitting my upgrade yet, but anticipating that I will face the same challenges, and that Nobles involves a trip over the Pennines from Cheshire, any recommendations on Rolling Roads in the Manchester Cheshie area which are MBE literate? The way things are going, it'll be Spring before I get mine fitted, so a trip to Chesterfield might be OK if I can get it running! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikpro Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Mat, you can check TPS voltage without the engine running but ignition on; the TPS voltage should go down to at least 0.4. When you fit the TPS there is a raised centre section that looks like it fits into the recess in the TB's - this is incorrect! The raised centre section fits into the hole in the holding bracket. Westfield had fitted mine wrong causing the engine to idle very roughly at 500rpm and as soon as I applied throttle the engine died. Start from scratch! (1) Remove TPS (2) fit throttle bodies to inlet manifold (3) Close the butterfly by adjusting what looks like the idle screw (4) Check the butterflies of all the other TB's are also closed; if they are not adjust linkage so they are the same as the butterfly nearest the 'idle screw' (5) Close all air bleed screws fully (6) Turn the 'idle screw' so it just touches the throttle lever on the TB's then turn one turn more so it fractionally opens the butterflies. (7) Ensure all other butterflies look like they are at the same opening as the one nearest the Idle screw (8) fit TPS; ensuring raised part fits in hole in bracket. (9) Adjust TPS to give a voltage of 0.69 and ensure voltage increases as you open the throttle; if it doesn't you have fitted the TPS the wrong way round! (10) Once running, balance the throttle bodies (How to do this is described here) DO NOT USE THE 'IDLE SCREW' TO ADJUST IDLE AS IT ISN'T REALLY AN IDLE SPEED SCREW (Controls initial airflow only) Idle speed is controlled by the fuelling & Ignition timing etc in the ECU map. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAT1800 Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 Cheers Nick, I will check the tps, although it did seem right to me. The bad idle and the engine dying when the revs are applied does seem similar, this was the case last week although I did get it to idle for a while this weekend it was rough and I couldn't get the revs up. Mat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 I couldn't get the revs up. Just to check, it is the engine we're talking of here Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAT1800 Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 I was talking of the engine, but admit the most likely part to be causing the problems is me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Podmore Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 As far as the graphs go, if it's a smooth line thats needed then IMO, the first graph looks slightly better? Make sure you note that the graphs from Nobles doesn't start until 2,000rpm, so you can't see what is happening below 2,000rpm where most of the uneveness of Kerry's torque is. The Nobles plot is also for an engine on 130 cams, whereas Kerry's isn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack T Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Hi all Without trying to critersize (spelling??) i think that the original map for the factory is going to be pretty conservative making it run very rich as noted by Blatman so as not to damage anything. After having mine re-mapped Nobles noted that it was *heavily* over fueling lower down the rev-range but at the top end it was fine. The original map is ok but if you really want to get the best out of the engine a remap is the way to go, and IMHO it has made a noticeable difference. Before the work when ever mine was running it smelt like it was pouring un-burnt fuel through the exhaust but now all you can smell is the cat and the fuel economy is much better. Before you could almost feel it bogging down at lower revs which may have been a result of the above. Thats my 2p's worth anyway Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Sounds reasonable - Nobles tell me they're open Saturday for a chat so I have been given permission to go on way to look at kitchen worktops Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 As far as the graphs go, if it's a smooth line thats needed then IMO, the first graph looks slightly better? Make sure you note that the graphs from Nobles doesn't start until 2,000rpm, so you can't see what is happening below 2,000rpm where most of the uneveness of Kerry's torque is. The Nobles plot is also for an engine on 130 cams, whereas Kerry's isn't. Exactly - need to be an Engineer to point his out Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flappa Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 DO NOT USE THE 'IDLE SCREW' TO ADJUST IDLE AS IT ISN'T REALLY AN IDLE SPEED SCREW! Idle speed is controlled by the fuelling & Ignition timing etc in the ECU map. What is it for if not adjusting the idle position? How can you adjust the idle from within the ECU My brain hurts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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