KugaWestie Posted January 16, 2021 Author Posted January 16, 2021 To allow me to bond the main nose mesh in position, I removed the radiator from the car. It slides out through the bottom of the car. The scissor lift came in very handy for this work. Before removing the radiator I measured the clearance gap at the back of the radiator. This was because the front mounted fan was bothering me, and I wanted to see if I could find a really slim fan to mount on the rear of the radiator within the room that I have. The gap was 60mm, and I manage to find a nice 16” Spal puller fan with an overall depth of 52mm, so I bought one. This week I have been busy mounting it onto the back of the radiator. Once mounted I refitted the rad and fan combo into the car. I am much happier with this set up now. Fan mounting complete. Back in the car viewed from underneath And the view from the top
KugaWestie Posted January 16, 2021 Author Posted January 16, 2021 With the radiator back in position, I pushed on with fitting the heater. I had previously fitted the heater in the engine bay, then realised that this is an IVA fail as the heater must not pull contaminated/fumed air in. So I checked clearance behind the dash and there is enough, so this is where it has ended up. On top of the tunnel. I removed the windscreen and fitted the vent trims as well as the ducting under the scuttle Then refitted the screen Finally I plumbed in the heater I have two bigger ducts that you can see are hanging loose at present, these will eventually throw some warmth into the footwells
KugaWestie Posted January 19, 2021 Author Posted January 19, 2021 EPAS connected up tonight and tested
KugaWestie Posted January 19, 2021 Author Posted January 19, 2021 3 minutes ago, Rush Motorsport said: Needs some WD40. That’s my nice rubber floor tiles 😉
KugaWestie Posted January 19, 2021 Author Posted January 19, 2021 3 minutes ago, Rush Motorsport said: I thought it was your old man aches! No they are far louder than that
KugaWestie Posted January 23, 2021 Author Posted January 23, 2021 Dashboard wiring almost complete. Resistors soldered in over the LED Alternator/Charge and Brake/Handbrake warning lamps. I insulated these after the photo was taken
Captain Colonial Posted January 24, 2021 Posted January 24, 2021 17 hours ago, KugaWestie said: Dashboard wiring almost complete. I see you’ve taken up drinking Gary, I know wiring can be a challenge but you can do better than white spirits.
corsechris Posted January 24, 2021 Posted January 24, 2021 Are those 7.5 Ohm resistors Gary? If yes...are they going to see a full 12V, because if so, I don't expect they will last very long as they look to be about 1/2W rated. If all the above is correct, they will (briefly) get very hot before going pop.
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted January 24, 2021 Posted January 24, 2021 1 hour ago, corsechris said: Are those 7.5 Ohm resistors Gary? If yes...are they going to see a full 12V, because if so, I don't expect they will last very long as they look to be about 1/2W rated. If all the above is correct, they will (briefly) get very hot before going pop. Yep, surely they need to be in series with the LED?
corsechris Posted January 24, 2021 Posted January 24, 2021 There’s a need to have a parallel load across an LED when used as an alternator charge indicator/bootstrap indicator, usually something around 5W worth will do, so a 27 Ohm would do, but would need to be rated at 5W continuous dissipation. ETA Those LEDs do look as if they are probably already ballasted to work on 12V
KugaWestie Posted January 30, 2021 Author Posted January 30, 2021 I am still working on the dash electrics. @corsechris I dismantled one of the LED warning lamps as it had a loose connection and they definitely don’t have ballasts fitted.
corsechris Posted January 30, 2021 Posted January 30, 2021 They could have a regulator on the chip too. I thought I saw what looked like “12V” on the body in one of the pictures.
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