Kingster Posted April 26, 2019 Posted April 26, 2019 Excellent build Gary. Looking forward to seeing and hearing this one day!
KugaWestie Posted April 26, 2019 Author Posted April 26, 2019 35 minutes ago, BCF said: Exciting times Gary!! Scary more like, you haven't seen the state of the body!!!!
KugaWestie Posted April 26, 2019 Author Posted April 26, 2019 29 minutes ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said: Excellent build Gary. Looking forward to seeing and hearing this one day! 2020 Mate
Quinten Posted April 26, 2019 Posted April 26, 2019 55 minutes ago, KugaWestie said: I have also earthed the fuel tank Am sorry to go a little off-topic, but is this required for something? Only asking because my fuel tank itself is not grounded in a special way, and am just wondering if I have left myself open to some sort of risk?
Captain Colonial Posted April 26, 2019 Posted April 26, 2019 I used to fit this to the top heater hose under the bonnet on the V8 muscle cars I owned in the States, got one on the Westfield as well, might be of interest to you. Bleed Tee
KugaWestie Posted April 26, 2019 Author Posted April 26, 2019 1 minute ago, Quinten said: Am sorry to go a little off-topic, but is this required for something? Only asking because my fuel tank itself is not grounded in a special way, and am just wondering if I have left myself open to some sort of risk? It is to satisfy IVA as the tank is sat on rubber So not technically earthed. But in my case it is earthed already through the fixing tabs, so this is just belt and braces
KugaWestie Posted April 26, 2019 Author Posted April 26, 2019 2 minutes ago, Captain Colonial said: I used to fit this to the top heater hose under the bonnet on the V8 muscle cars I owned in the States, got one on the Westfield as well, might be of interest to you. Bleed Tee Thanks. I already have one in stock ready for the heater hose once the heater is fitted
Kingster Posted April 26, 2019 Posted April 26, 2019 1 minute ago, KugaWestie said: It is to satisfy IVA as the tank is sat on rubber So not technically earthed. But in my case it is earthed already through the fixing tabs, so this is just belt and braces Yes, best to be sure for IVA
KugaWestie Posted April 27, 2019 Author Posted April 27, 2019 This afternoon I had a good tidy up, bled the clutch slave and then put the car back on the ground. My next job was to test the operation of the clutch. To my despair the clutch plate must be bonded to the flywheel, as I cannot engage a gear with the engine running. I jacked up the rear of the car and put it on axle stands to get the rear wheels off the ground and then started the car whilst in gear. I let it tick over for a few minutes to get things warm. I then revved the engine up with the clutch depressed and stamped on the brake pedal hoping to free it off, but no joy. I am not sure what to do next as the method described above has never let me down before! The clutch pedal feels really light as well
corsechris Posted April 28, 2019 Posted April 28, 2019 Last ditch attempt before taking the engine or box back out...... on the floor, securely chocked and ideally a bit of space in front(!), in 3rd or 4th gear, foot on clutch pedal, handbrake and foot brake applied, bounce the key to crank it a gnats. If that doesn’t shift it, as you can’t drive it I guess your only option then is open it up again The Xflow in the Westy used to get “rusty clutch” every winter layup and it always responded to either the crank in gear or drive it until warm then press the clutch and jump up and down on the throttle technique. I do recall that getting the two pivoting blocks on the clutch fork into the slots on the release bearing could be a mare though. Hope it isn’t that!
KugaWestie Posted April 28, 2019 Author Posted April 28, 2019 I spent another couple of hours today getting the car nice and hot and trying everything I could to free the clutch, but to no avail. So I have resigned myself to the fact that the engine and maybe the box will have to come back out for investigation Gutted does not come close to how I am feeling right now
corsechris Posted April 29, 2019 Posted April 29, 2019 No consolation I’m sure, but I ended up taking the ‘box out of my fake snake 3 times to sort out oil leaks. I’d had it “professionally “ rebuilt and it leaked like a sieve from both ends initially. Took it back, tried again, no better. Took it back again and had a proper moan. This time they’d fixed the leak at the output but input still leaking at the input. Did it myself in the end. bl**** “experts”.
AdamR Posted April 29, 2019 Posted April 29, 2019 That's a shame Gary 😕 At least you will become proficient! Hope it can get sorted out without too much work mate.
KugaWestie Posted April 29, 2019 Author Posted April 29, 2019 31 minutes ago, AdamR said: That's a shame Gary 😕 At least you will become proficient! Hope it can get sorted out without too much work mate. Its really dissapointing Adam, but hey ho it will have to be done. I am currently just having an "in head discussion" about what will be easier, leave the engine in place and drop the box out; leave the box in and pull the engine out, or pull the engine and box out together!
Captain Colonial Posted April 29, 2019 Posted April 29, 2019 That sucks Gary, sorry to hear this. I’m amazed the method both you and I have used to free the clutch hasn’t worked. Is there an inspection plate on the bell housing you can remove to look in and see what’s happening?
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