Lincolnshire Newbie

[si_salisbury]

4 hours ago, daveclow said:

I tried charging the battery overnight to no avail, but I’d the battery is knackered I don’t suppose charging it would do much anyway?

 

Love the warning sign 😂

 

One unexpected bonus of ownership is the sheer amount of kudos you get from people on the street. They go out of their way to congratulate you on the car. 
 

Thanks for the warm welcome everyone.

Could the clicking be the starter motor solenoid clicking and not powering the gear that shoots out to turn the flywheel.

some times a little tape on the solenoid while some one is turning it over will bring it back to life, if that works then the issue is the starter motor. Image is not your starter but will help explain.

[AndrewBClarke]

@daveclow

Thanks for your video posted on another tread. Logic is that your issue is either not getting enough power to the starter or the starter itself. Nothing mechanical as a bump start is effective. You can try jump leads from another car to check the effectiveness of the battery.  If it starts this way then it is the battery and time for a new one. If not check the positive and negative leads and connections There is a connection on the starter where the positive joins and is a prime candidate for a clean and reconnect. Earthing is another point to check. If all of this doesn’t help, probably time to think about changing your starter. This isn’t too expensive or difficult. Think of an upgrade at this point to a high torque more modern type. They draw less current and are more powerful. Another thing to check (I can’t see from the video) is the sizing of your positive and negative leads. You loose power through a lead and you loose less through a bigger lead. 
Good luck

Andrew

[BillyPee]

I've just watched your video and your solenoid is separate from your starter motor (rather than combined in the photo above). The solenoid is the squarish block on your bulkhead with the thick wires going to it. It is basically a switch that is activated by your ignition key and allows power to flow to your starter. Check your cables (and any grounds) and work through the system methodically and you will work out where the issue lies. If you can't get the starter motor to work when you power it directly then I have a spare (yours looks like a Lucas that I had on my xflow) that you can have for free (its heavy so probably best couriered via the Peak District group, sorry @AndrewBClarke 😀).

[AndrewBClarke]

No apologies needed@BillyPee:). You are the Xflow expert - not me!!  

[daveclow]

Wow, I’m genuinely blown away by the help guys. Thanks so much to you all.

 

I’m a complete newb to all this and not a mechanic, but I could build you a nice website 😅

 

Collecting the car was 20+ years in the making and a bit emotional. I was going to build a kit with my late father but we didn’t get time unfortunately. He was a mechanic with a lifetime of knowledge so in his absence I’m extremely grateful for the help.

 

I’ll keep you posted.

[daveclow]

5 hours ago, BillyPee said:

I've just watched your video and your solenoid is separate from your starter motor (rather than combined in the photo above). The solenoid is the squarish block on your bulkhead with the thick wires going to it. It is basically a switch that is activated by your ignition key and allows power to flow to your starter. Check your cables (and any grounds) and work through the system methodically and you will work out where the issue lies. If you can't get the starter motor to work when you power it directly then I have a spare (yours looks like a Lucas that I had on my xflow) that you can have for free (its heavy so probably best couriered via the Peak District group, sorry @AndrewBClarke 😀).

ok this makes sense. I did wonder why this started appeared not to have anything attached to it resembling a solenoid. I’ll work through methodically and would definitely swap that starter motor for some beers 🍻 if it’s the starter! Thanks 🙏🏼 

[Euan Hoosearmy]

I'm a few months ahead of you in this game, using a Westfield to build some mechanical knowledge/skills. I've a Zetec engine so there's a few differences but the principals are the same. So far... I've changed the starter motor, re-plumbed the cooling, fixed some of the issues with the carbs and am about to repeat the plumbing as a pot-hole broke the thermostat housing so I'm now fitting a water rail. (Think the thermostat housing issue is Zetec specific, so don't worry about that... :-)) If I can help, I will, but there's lots of really great knowledge on here. 

 

In between the fixes... I've had a few hundred miles of pure enjoyment blatting this thing round the local a and b roads.

 

Steering wheel - there was a thread on this a couple of weeks ago, there's a few images of what people have done. I used a 60mm spacer, it was surprising how much it raised the wheel. It also stopped the driving with arms straight out effect which was really tiring. I was in your situation with legs fighting for the same space as the wheel, there's now a good few centimetres between wheel and legs.

[daveclow]

1 hour ago, Euan Hoosearmy said:

I'm a few months ahead of you in this game, using a Westfield to build some mechanical knowledge/skills. I've a Zetec engine so there's a few differences but the principals are the same. So far... I've changed the starter motor, re-plumbed the cooling, fixed some of the issues with the carbs and am about to repeat the plumbing as a pot-hole broke the thermostat housing so I'm now fitting a water rail. (Think the thermostat housing issue is Zetec specific, so don't worry about that... :-)) If I can help, I will, but there's lots of really great knowledge on here. 

 

In between the fixes... I've had a few hundred miles of pure enjoyment blatting this thing round the local a and b roads.

 

Steering wheel - there was a thread on this a couple of weeks ago, there's a few images of what people have done. I used a 60mm spacer, it was surprising how much it raised the wheel. It also stopped the driving with arms straight out effect which was really tiring. I was in your situation with legs fighting for the same space as the wheel, there's now a good few centimetres between wheel and legs.

Sounds like you’ve been busy with it. I realise now that the fettling is all part of it. I also feel like I should have opted for breakdown cover 😂

 

Good tip on the wheel spacer. I’m going to look into this. 
 

Tonight I think I found that the radiator cap is the likely source of the leak as there is residue and stains all around this area. Once I manage to get it started I’ll let it get warm and monitor.

 

I popped it on charge again tonight even though it was only on charge 2 nights ago. Tonight the charger read that it was 2/5 bars charged again so it could also be the battery.

 

Cheers all.

[BillyPee]

On 04/06/2022 at 22:48, daveclow said:

Today, during my second drive in it, it leaked coolant out on the road and started getting hot. It’s also done a wee on my garage floor, so I need to look into that. Not the best start, 2 drives and 2 issues. Here’s hoping the problems don’t pile up too quickly for my novice mechanic status 🤦

I have learnt quite a bit about cooling a Crossflow in a Westfield so if you have any questions just fire away. However, starting with basics and minimal cost.

• How do you know it is getting hot? Is it just the gauge or can you smell it/boiled over. The wee on the garage floor might just be from an overflow pipe.
• Where is it leaking from? Hopefully, it just needs a hose clamp tightening. Or the overflow pipe during expansion. Might be the water pump (hopefully not). The bottom hose goes to the water pump on the front of the engine. Does the water pump look old or new?
• Drop your coolant into a washing-up bowl or similar from the bottom hose on the rad. Is it 100% water, or some coolant (coloured)? Is it a rusty sludge?
• If a rusty sludge, then do a coolant flush. You can find products on eBay. I have used Wynne's in the past.
• Refill with coolant designed for a classic car. This is important as modern coolants are designed for modern engines, i.e. not an iron block. I use Miller's Alpine blue coolant. A bit pricey but you don't need much.
• Make sure it is full and avoid trapped air (depends on your specific set up).
• Monitor your coolant temps (make a note with the ambient temp and driving conditions, i.e. stuck in traffic).

See how that goes and hopefully that will be fixed. If you still have cooling problems then there will be plenty of advice on here to help you spend your money on upgrades 😀

[daveclow]

On 06/06/2022 at 13:55, BillyPee said:

I've just watched your video and your solenoid is separate from your starter motor (rather than combined in the photo above). The solenoid is the squarish block on your bulkhead with the thick wires going to it. It is basically a switch that is activated by your ignition key and allows power to flow to your starter. Check your cables (and any grounds) and work through the system methodically and you will work out where the issue lies. If you can't get the starter motor to work when you power it directly then I have a spare (yours looks like a Lucas that I had on my xflow) that you can have for free (its heavy so probably best couriered via the Peak District group, sorry @AndrewBClarke 😀).

Hi @BillyPee I took the starter motor off tonight and tried bench testing it from the battery, and nothing. It’s lifeless unfortunately (providing of course I did everything correctly)

 

It is indeed a Lucas M35J and looks in pretty decent condition on the outside atleast.

 

 

Is this the same as the spare you have?

[BillyPee]

On 07/06/2022 at 22:06, daveclow said:

Is this the same as the spare you have?

 

Yes, that's the one. I will bring it to the next Peak District meet that @AndrewBClarke attends 😀

 

[AndrewBClarke]

That will be this Sunday then. Always try to go as they are brilliant. So your replacement starter will be a bit closer but Lincolnshire is a big place. I’m basically in the middle just North of Woodhall. I’ll drop you a note to confirm collection from Billy and then try to arrange for you to visit. 

[daveclow]

Evening team,

 

Big respect goes out to @BillyPee. The starter motor he kindly gave me works a dream and I’m so happy to be able to start the car again 😅

What are the odds of the starter motor going for a crap on the drive home from collecting it 🤦

 

I got her up to temp and found the radiator cap to be the culprit of the leak. Easy fix:

 

 

 

She does seem to run quite hot imo, but I’m not an expert. I didn’t drive it due to the leak but it sat idling on the drive just shy of 100 degrees. At this stage it had lost about 50-100ml of coolant so I turned it off. The fan didn’t kick it either.

 

Another observation is this smoke(?) (see video) coming from the catch can. Perhaps it’s normal, I just don’t have the experience with this car to know, any opinions welcome:

 

 

sorry moderators if it’s getting a bit tech heavy for The Start Line.

 

As always, thank you, legends.

 

cheers

 

Dave

[daveclow]

On 07/06/2022 at 09:02, BillyPee said:

I have learnt quite a bit about cooling a Crossflow in a Westfield so if you have any questions just fire away. However, starting with basics and minimal cost.

• How do you know it is getting hot? Is it just the gauge or can you smell it/boiled over. The wee on the garage floor might just be from an overflow pipe.
• Where is it leaking from? Hopefully, it just needs a hose clamp tightening. Or the overflow pipe during expansion. Might be the water pump (hopefully not). The bottom hose goes to the water pump on the front of the engine. Does the water pump look old or new?
• Drop your coolant into a washing-up bowl or similar from the bottom hose on the rad. Is it 100% water, or some coolant (coloured)? Is it a rusty sludge?
• If a rusty sludge, then do a coolant flush. You can find products on eBay. I have used Wynne's in the past.
• Refill with coolant designed for a classic car. This is important as modern coolants are designed for modern engines, i.e. not an iron block. I use Miller's Alpine blue coolant. A bit pricey but you don't need much.
• Make sure it is full and avoid trapped air (depends on your specific set up).
• Monitor your coolant temps (make a note with the ambient temp and driving conditions, i.e. stuck in traffic).

See how that goes and hopefully that will be fixed. If you still have cooling problems then there will be plenty of advice on here to help you spend your money on upgrades 😀

Ill work my way through these points. The coolant I’ve seen is indeed rust coloured. I’ll try and get a proper photo of the exact setup. I don’t have a header tank, there’s a pipe coming out of the neck of the thermostat going back into the rad. I’ve read this was normal practice  once upon a time.

anyway, you’ve given me all the info I need to address the cooling issues with these engines, so many thanks 🙏🏼 

[BillyPee]

Glad you are sorted with the starter.

 

It's not uncommon to get oil vapour out of the breather. Just check your oil level on the dip stick and ensure between min and max. If you empty the catch tank and record the date you will be able to establish how quickly it fills. I've plenty of experience here too but I'd focus on your coolant issue first.