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BillyPee last won the day on July 11

BillyPee had the most liked content!

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About BillyPee

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    Average Joe Driver

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  • Car Details
    1993 SEiW 1700 Crossflow with Weber 40DCOE
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  1. BillyPee

    Sending a gearbox by pallet

    Done a bit of this over the past few months. Invert the gearbox for 24 hours to get the oil out. Ours have all gone in cardboard boxes.
  2. BillyPee

    Replacement Fan Temperature Switch

    I can't identify it but you could simply replace it with one from Burton that has 2 spade connectors on (and remove the plug on your wiring).
  3. BillyPee

    No Spark - Intermittent

    Me too. It's not 100% that we have fixed this but fingers crossed we have. Time will tell.
  4. BillyPee

    Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    The mystery regarding the gearbox has been solved. BGH received the jammed gearbox yesterday, stripped it down and discovered that they had left off a circlip which made first jump out and then all the gears moved forward locking it in 4th. I know that it would have been better to have been correct in the first place but I have been impressed with the way in which BGH have gone about correcting this and their attitude on the phone. There was no shirking of responsibility, they sent a replacement down at their cost and included the oil and gasket so that we were not out of pocket. Sometimes stuff goes wrong but it is how a company goes about redressing it that marks them out. As a result, I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. So this weekend (and probably next), there is the sump to regasket and fit then reinstall the gearbox and engine. Hopefully there will be no more surprises and we can be back on the road very soon.
  5. BillyPee

    Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Still not back on the road. It seems to be one step forward, two steps back at the moment. The engine was running on the drive last Saturday and Sunday. Tried moving forwards and backwards on the drive but the gearbox would not stay in first. Second and reverse were OK but a bit hard to find. Eventually got it to stay in gear but then the box jammed in gear and couldn't get it out of gear. The clutch was engaging/disengaging OK but the box was stuck firmly in gear. Spoke to BGH who were really good about the whole situation. A replacement box arrived on Friday and our old one is going back to them on Monday. They want to check the box over before we install the replacement as they are scratching their heads on what the problem could be. As you can guess, yesterday was spent taking the engine and gearbox out but we are now practiced at it so other than the weather it was not too hard. I can see light at the end of the tunnel (mainly because the engine and gearbox are out) Going to take this opportunity to refit the sump as it has been weeping a little oil. Hopefully it will all be back together in a week or two! Cheers, Bill
  6. BillyPee

    No Spark - Intermittent

    Thanks again for the input guys. I checked over the suggestions but couldn't find any of those issues. A working theory was that our old starter was being lazy and drawing too much change (not leaving enough for the coil pack to spark). We had the new Brise replacement sitting there so did a temporary fit (the wiring all needs properly lengthening) but the car started first time and really quickly. You can hear that the new starter is turning the engine faster. That was both last Saturday and Sunday (only on the drive, not on the road) so while that might have been pot luck I am going to assume that its the fix and have already started to order the wiring parts I need. Fingers crossed.
  7. BillyPee

    Cheshire & N. Staffs monthly meet, Thursday the 5th July

    Sorry I missed this one guys. I was planning on coming but something cropped up which meant I could not. Will see you at the August meet, hopefully in the Westfield.
  8. BillyPee

    No Spark - Intermittent

    Thanks for the responses everyone. Sorry, I should have said earlier. As Dave says, it is a Ford Kent Crossflow on carbs (Weber DCOE 40). When I plug the laptop into the ECU and view Map 4000 while cranking (but not starting), I can see that the ECU knows the RPM of the engine so I have assumed that the CPS must be working OK. There is no distributor, ignition is handled by an Omex 200 ECU. There is a Ford EDIS coil pack (3 pin) in place of the separate coil and distributor. The sensors are throttle (TPS), crank (CPS), coolant and air temperature. It's been a couple of years since I fitted the ECU and that has been working flawlessly until now. I haven't checked the ignition switch yet, thanks for the advice. Thats a good shout. Not something I have specifically checked. Will check and report back. Yes, good and solid and checked a few times. Thats a good shout too. I checked the fuses (once) and couldn't see anything blown but I could easily have missed a hairline crack. Yep, I can go over the loom again and check for continuity. Thanks again everyone.
  9. BillyPee

    X-Flow - Electric fuel pump replacement

    Pretty much the same advice as Chris. I have put a Facet square pump at the back near the tank over the winter. You will need to fabricate your own bracket but if you buy the pump as a kit if will come with bobbins and tails, etc. There is just a single wire to run to power the pump although you will want to consider if/how it is controlled if you have an ECU. Up near the carbs I have a Malpassi FPR and filter combo item. I set this to 3 PSI although I think this is at the top end of what is acceptable for 40 DCOEs.
  10. BillyPee

    Radiator to bracket spacers....what size are using?

    Sorry for being late to this thread. Those in the first picture are on my car. I got a number of sizes of them off eBay. Search for "Stand Offs". Maybe work out the depth with a stack of washers and then order up the right size?
  11. BillyPee

    No Spark - Intermittent

    Still not back on the road following the winter upgrades but I am getting closer. However, I am struggling with a problem that is really hard to diagnose. I am trying to problem solve an issue we are having where some days the car starts fine (and continues to idle/run fine) and other days it refuses to start. The car is stationary at this point, so this is just on the drive. Perhaps someone has some insight into what might be the problem given the symptoms below? When the car won't start, it turns over fine as though it wants to start but removing spark plugs to spark against the block shows that none of the plugs are firing. I double-checked the HT leads with the multi-meter set to Ohms and they are fine too (given that all 4 cylinders were not firing it seemed unlikely that they would be). I connected the laptop to the ECU (Omex 200) and even when it does not start it can see 13v (drops to 9v after cranking for a while). Just to be sure we attached a battery booster and can see 13.25v dropping to 10v after cranking for a while. This appears to discount the battery/not enough voltage. When the engine is running, I can tell that the charging system is working because a bit of throttle raises voltage on the battery above 14v.. I can see in the software (MAP 4000) that the ECU reports readings from TPS and CPS so I have discounted a sensor problem. According to the ECU, it turns over around 200 RPM which is within the cranking conditions (50 to 400 RPM). I suspected the coil pack (Ford EDIS, 3-pin plug) after a bit of diagnosis (I checked that the plug had 12v at the middle pin and that the pins 1 and 3 had continuity to the pins on the ECU plug and they did). All the connections look sound. So last week, I got a new coil pack from Omex and fitted on Saturday and it started first time (and a few more times while we were sorting out the last few jobs). Job done we thought! Not quite... On Sunday, the car would not start (no spark) even with a booster attached. Monday it started. I know it sounds strange but on the days the car starts once, it starts again and again. On the days it won't start, no amount of fiddling with the wiring will get it to start (which makes me think that this is not wiring related). I'm struggling with what to do next. Might it be the ECU that is (for whatever reason) not giving the signal to spark? Anything else I should be checking? Cheers, Bill
  12. BillyPee

    Cheshire and N. Staffs Monthly meet, Thursday 7th June

    I'll be there too (still not back on the road but, hopefully, it won't be long now).
  13. BillyPee

    Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Long, long, story but the Westy is now running as of last Sunday. The engine sounds amazing, even at idle. To save time on the re-wiring, I got a replacement Lucas alternator and kept the wiring as-is. Well that was the plan but the 3-pin Lucas plug did not fit so needed a new plug. The new starter and alternator can wait a wee while. The rewire down the trans tunnel took more time than you would credit, especially re-routing the brake pipe. But that is all done now. Filling the gearbox with fluid required gymnastic skills to get in the passenger footwell, remove the access panel, etc. All credit to BillyPee Snr for that. The old water pump decided to leak out of the seals (not the gasket). A new pump and elbow fixed that. Still to do, the engine is sitting too low so the bonnet won't fit so a bit of fettling required. The mounts are slotted so shouldn't be a big issue. The gearbox is on a new mount which has raised it up about 1/4" and means the trans tunnel cover touches the gearbox extension which needs some more fettling. Brakes to bleed, and clutch to alter as although I can get first and reverse on the drive it's a pig to engage and a really heavy clutch pedal. At least we are closer to getting back on the road.
  14. BillyPee

    Xflow waterpump replacement

    When in situ, put a screwdriver between opposite bolt heads to stop the pulley from spinning. Hold the screwdriver with your left hand and undo a different bolt with a spanner in your right hand. As Justin says, some gaskets are separate. Looking at your photo I would say you will be able to use a separate gasket. You do not need to remove the timing chain cover. You need to clean away all the crap from the block with a window scraper tool. Clean the surface so it is grease free with brake clean and or IPA. Use Hylomar blue on the surface of the gasket and new pump and you will get a good seal I'm sure. That hole is for the pump. Make sure it is clean of crud. Make sure you don't block it up with Hylomar blue. The new pump will come without an elbow. The boss is 3/8 NPT I believe (search for a thread about 6 months ago from Vogalogue). You can get the elbow from Burtons. A swivel elbow will help but the tapered thread is designed so that the elbow can point in any direction. P.S. Don't forget to fit the alternator tensioner bracket when you bolt up your water pump!
  15. BillyPee

    Cheshire and N. Staffs monthly meet Thursday 3rd May

    I'll be there too. Westy not back on the road so I might be up for a passenger seat too (don't want to put anyone out of their way going back to the Golden Pheasant).

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