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BillyPee

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BillyPee last won the day on July 11 2018

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About BillyPee

  • Rank
    Average Joe Driver

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  • Car Details
    1993 SEiW 1700 Crossflow with Weber 40DCOE
  • My Location
    Stockport

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  1. Sorry, can't make this one as I will be working on the Westy. Sounds like a great event though, so I hope to be along to one of these later in the year.
  2. I will take this please Julian. PM sent.
  3. Use the four outermost studs (two intake and two exhaust) through the chains hanging off a load leveller. Use penny washers and then the nuts back on the studs.
  4. You certainly got lucky with the weather yesterday. Sorry I couldn't make it but I was working on the Westy. See you soon.
  5. Thanks @Julie Hall - AO Representative, Peak District AO for another well organised day out in the Peak District. Great roads, food, and people. I'm itching to get the Westy back on the road and looking forward to the next already.
  6. Thanks for the information @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary. I expected the connection to drop in tunnels and near high rises but wasn't aware it'd be a problem with tree-lined roads too. I can live it being a bit unreliable but I hadn't realised it was as bad as you described. With the Smith's gauge already returned and the GPS one turning up tomorrow I am rather committed to using the GPS one now. I perhaps would have had a go with the Smiths gauge had I known as I was thinking of fabricating the brackets so that the sender pointed backwards at the prop bolt heads (rather than downwards) so that if there was deflection the sender would not make contact (just misread). I haven't seen anything to suggest that they are not. The instructions are here: https://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1931.pdf The MOT doesn't test the speedo anyway so I really cannot see it being a problem. That is the reason why I am changing from gearbox driven. The gearbox speedo drive does not turn anymore and I didn't fancy removing the engine and box to get at it to fix it. I thought it would just be easier to replace it with a digital one but that is proving a lot more complicated than I originally thought. The other added advantage was that I could replace the non-matching gauge with a Smiths Classic speedo to match all the other gauges. However, as you know, that benefit has also disappeared too as its a Stack gauge that I am using now. As long as it works 99% of the time then it'll be fine and better than the inop gauge I currently have.
  7. Thanks for the responses everyone. That is similar I have on my tunnel top too. When I got the car, the tunnel top panels were attached with self tappers and repeated removal meant that not all of them bit as much as you'd like. So I fitted rivnuts and M5 domed stainless bolts. I works okay but rivnuts do stand proud by 1–2 mm so, if I were doing it again, I would just drill and tap the threads. I would also go down a size to M4 as M5 is bigger than necessary. Sounds like a good idea. Just need to find some that is very thin (1 mm like you say) to avoid wavy lines. On the outer interior panels I used counter sunk and cupped washers as it gives you more room for error when transferring holes to the new panel (I wanted to avoid putting new holes in the chassis).
  8. Thanks for the responses, I really do appreciate it: I worked on the Westy yesterday (still cleaning silicone off the chassis rails in prep for the new panels) and took the opportunity to double-check the sender mounting situation. I could not see any suitable mounting point on the diff for a bracket that would allow me to pick up from the prop bolts. It would mean bonding it in place which I am not too keen on. I did bounce the rear end up and down and I could not see any deflection in the prop relative to the chassis. However, with the earlier comments about destroying senders I am not keen to find out the hard way. I cannot see a bracket for mounting a sensor to pick up from half-shafts either. It would mean making a bracket and bonding nuts/magnets on the the half-shafts which sounds like a lot of work and additional complication. I have decided to avoid the problem completely buy returning the Smiths Classic speedo/sender and replacing it with a Stack GPS based speedo instead. Should be a much easier installation (famous last words) as the GPS receiver can live anywhere. Plus there is no calibration to worry about either. I will feedback on whether this proves to be true.
  9. Sorry for the late notice @Julie Hall - AO Representative, Peak District AO but I can make this now. See you there!
  10. I have got a new speedo and electronic speedo sender. Previously, the speedo was analogue and driven from the gearbox. My first thought was to point it at the prop bolts by making a bracket from the handbrake mount. I had a search to see if I could find a photo to get inspiration for a bracket and where best to mount it and came across this thread. Looks like the prop bolts move relative to the chassis. Its not a live axle so I wasn't expecting the prop to deflect that much but it seems that it can from that thread and so perhaps that isn't the best idea. Having the sender reading from the prop bolts seems to be more convenient/neater than having to run wiring to the front hub or diff bolts. Is there a trick or any other advice on offer to using the prop bolts for the speedo sender?
  11. Thanks for the replies everyone. I used rivnuts on the outer interior panels because there was a mixture of materials to go into (tub and chassis) and I thought it would be a good idea. They stand proud by 1–2 mm so I used adhesive foam sealer strip between the rivnuts to avoid it going wavy when I tightened the screws. Its okay but I would prefer something that sits flat against the chassis. Plus it took way longer than I anticipated fitting all the rivnuts (and marking/drilling the holes). I am tempted to do this as it would certainly be a lot easier than accurately drilling out all the holes on the new panel. And it would be a neat, flat finish. However, once they are on they are on. Thanks Dean, thats a really good idea that I had not thought of/considered. I am still unconvinced that there will be much water ingress, except for the very front and even then I doubt there will be too much. Exactly that. At the moment I am using the lack of panels to fit a new speedo sender and I know that we really struggled to fill the gearbox through the inspection hole last year. Fuel hoses don't last forever either, so being able to remove and refit the panels (or probably just one side) is worthwhile, even if it is only once a blue moon that it needs doing. Thats a very good point. The holes you need for an M5 rivnut are big. Also, the existing 4 mm pop rivet holes are not centred (they are on the outside edge of the chassis) so enlarging them would not be simple. Good shout on drill and tapping, though I have already bought 500 pop rivets so I think I will be using them.
  12. I have removed the aluminium transmission tunnel side panels as I am replacing them with carbon fibre ones from Carbon NV this winter. After drilling out a few hundred pop rivets, I have been spending hours removing the silicone sealant and thinking that I would rather not have to do this again. Is the sealant needed just to stop water ingress or does it contribute to the strength of the structure of the chassis? I doubt there will be much water ingress as the panels are above the floor panels for the most part as the tunnel is only open at the front-most portion. I don't have carpets to worry about and when it rains the footwells already fill up with water. Having the panels non-bonded will make it easier to remove should I need access in future, i.e. speedo drive, gearbox oil renewal, replacing fuel hose, wiring loom to the rear. I am tempted to forego the sealant and just pop rivet them on. Can anyone see an issue with doing this?
  13. The car is in bits at the moment. However, take a look at this thread for pictures @nice_guy Essentially: Replace PCV with an elbow from Burtons and connect to one input on the catch tank. If you have blanked off the fuel pump, check you have the blanking plate with a deflector on it. Make your own paper gasket and use Blue Hylomar to seal it. Vent the rocker cover to the second input on the catch tank. If you have the alloy rocker cover, solder up the pin hole in the filler cap. The silicon hose from the crankcase breather gets hotter and is more discoloured than the one from the rocker cover which I conclude means that it is breathing through that much more than the rocker one. I used to have a catch tank mounted to the bottom chassis rail near the front suspension but it never caught any oil. I only ever got oil/vapour coming out from the dipstick tube or the oil filler cap with a low mounted catch tank. That is why I now have it mounted on the scuttle. The Mocal tank looks nice but is overpriced IMHO and the vented cap that comes with it collects oil and allows this oil to dribble down the outside of the tank. It is not ideal but it does the job. I don't get oil or vapour out of the dipstick tube or oil filler cap anymore. Hope that helps.
  14. Yup. I have used Hylomar Blue to stick the gasket to the rocker cover but left natural on the cylinder head side. Much less leaky than either the cork or Cometic gaskets.
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