Wood door frame hinge screws

[wizzer]

1 minute ago, SootySport said:

How do you drill them out?

With my Manchester screwdriver haha

[wizzer]

No joking I'd drill a hole down the side of the screw then punch it sideways, pull it out and put a timber peg back in the hole.

If you've ever snapped a screw into a polished oak door you'll find a way to get it out. You can put a new screw in oak quite easy you could try to take it out after a few days and they just snap off.

Tony 

 

[Mole]

I was talking to our cabinet maker at work last week..I was after some stainless screws for my oak doors..and intact he said exactly the same as wizzer has said...

[Lyonspride]

Had a similar problem in my new house with screw heads rounded off, primarily caused by the previous owner using a philips screwdriver on pozidriv screw heads........ As a manufacturing engineer it's one of those things that annoys the hell out of me, you give people the right tools for the job and they use the wrong one at the wrong time regardless!

[Paul Hurdsfield - Joint Manchester AO]

I have hung a door or two in my 47 years as a joiner 

[wizzer]

I seem to turn my hand to anything these days

8m medieval crane worsley delph

Horse and cart at Leyland 

Betting pod royal ascot 

And one or two doors😉

Tony

[Hemsley]

Thank heavens my doors are smaller than those Paul.

 

I will try your advice about drilling a hole alongside the decapitated screws, and then belt them sideways etc. I've several more doors to remove and refit, so I'm going to become more expert at this over the coming weeks.

[Blatman]

1 hour ago, Hemsley said:

Thank heavens my doors are smaller than those Paul.

 

Pauls only 2ft 3 tall...

[Paul Hurdsfield - Joint Manchester AO]

On 11/05/2020 at 14:42, wizzer said:

I seem to turn my hand to anything these days

8m medieval crane worsley delph

Horse and cart at Leyland 

Betting pod royal ascot 

And one or two doors😉

Tony

 

Wow some nice jobs to work on there Tony 

[Paul Hurdsfield - Joint Manchester AO]

19 hours ago, Blatman said:

 

Pauls only 2ft 3 tall...

 

Just watch it Longfella 

[Paul Hurdsfield - Joint Manchester AO]

21 hours ago, Hemsley said:

Thank heavens my doors are smaller than those Paul.

 

I will try your advice about drilling a hole alongside the decapitated screws, and then belt them sideways etc. I've several more doors to remove and refit, so I'm going to become more expert at this over the coming weeks.

 

Those doors were for an office block in London.

The address.

No1 Piccadilly 

[Blatman]

3 hours ago, Paul Hurdsfield said:

 

Those doors were for an office block in London.

The address.

No1 Piccadilly 

 

Queues of Londoners ducking to get through the doors can be seen on any normal workday...

[SootySport]

On 10/05/2020 at 21:18, wizzer said:

No joking I'd drill a hole down the side of the screw then punch it sideways, pull it out and put a timber peg back in the hole.

If you've ever snapped a screw into a polished oak door you'll find a way to get it out. You can put a new screw in oak quite easy you could try to take it out after a few days and they just snap off.

Tony 

 

That’s a good method, I’ll remember it next time.

[Hemsley]

So I've been trying a few of the suggestions today, with a high success rate. A combination of whacking the screws then heating with a soldering iron. I will have to be a little less enthusiastic with the hammer on the other doors which still have the double glazed unit.

 

In the photo you can see the old soldering iron which I inherited from my Dad. It takes a while to heat up, but the large tip helps and after 5 minutes or so I found that the screws would turn with relatively little effort - almost as if they had been greased.

 

I used some flux and little bit of solder to improve heat-transfer contact with the screw head. When I removed the iron and inserted the screwdriver bit, I noticed some solder was pushed out. This might have also helped with the damaged cam-out screw head which I thought was probably a lost cause. 

 

I'll turn my attention to the broken screws this afternoon, and how I am going to plane down the sides of the doors. This is something I need to get right first time, as while my doors are much smaller than No1 Piccadilly, the glass is 1.8m x 0.4m and with the hardwood frame it is very heavy. The old rule of thumb, or a penny gap all round, is what I am aiming for. I'll remove 2mm from top and bottom of both doors, and 1.5mm from the hinge sides (and the hinge recess by 1.5mm). 

[Jim RS]

One of the things my Dad taught me was to run candle wax on the screw before fitting it so that it would go in easier and reduce the risk of splitting the wood(50years plus ago). I know that modern screws are coated to replicate this and maybe the wood retains this lubricant and just needs a bit of heat to liven it up, could also be just the expansion of the screw widening the wood slots.

For the broken screws we usually used a hollow plug drill bit over the screw to remove, then glued in some dowel to replace and fixed with longer screws.