BugMan Posted February 23, 2018 Posted February 23, 2018 I'd pretty much echo the sentiments from above, and I think you have taken the right approach. Defiantly join up here, probably the best thing you can invest in here is the community here who are fully supportive. Don't get hung up on the word "BLOG", just start a build diary, and post lots of pictures, we love pictures, and if you read through any of the currently running build you will see people spotting errors and things that could be done better. Saved my bacon on 3 occasions I can remember. Don't bother with the wet-weather gear, as general advice is not to get this until post IVA, less small thing to catch the testers eyes. If you think you might change it later, don't buy it now as it will be a lot of work to change at a later date, at which time the extra £££ will be payed back. This applied to me as I took my kit without tyres, as i was not keen on the T1R's or r888. I took my kit in 2 stages as to me there was no point in the bodywork sitting around for 6 months+, you just need to let the factory know 6 weeks ahead, which is just about when you get the engine in. Options lists really depends on your intended use, so for me as its aimed at a road car, it made no sense to go for Anti Roll Bars, but with my engine I went for the Limited Slip diff (LSD). I would go for the heater as I also have a financial controller to keep happy, get the best brakes you can afford. Get the wheels you really want, pointless buying something new you then intend to change. Defiantly wide-track. Best advice I could give would be to get along to your local group meeting and have a chat and look around what other people are driving before you make a decision, it was one of the VERY best things I did before I put my order in, most local AO's seem to run stuff every 2 weeks or so, and my local team regally come around to my build to have a butchers at my build. If not a local group, find somebody local. And by the way Welcome 2 Quote
DonPeffers Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 Welcome to the club and good luck with the build. What ratio steering rack have you specified? You want a quick rack; mine's 2.4 turns lock to lock. I had been hoping to be back on road 01 March after Winter SORN but with Spring delayed, plenty snow on the way and temperatures not exceeding 3C during the day until after 08 March I will delay putting the car back on the road and I do have a heater, although arthritis means I no longer use the hood as can't get in when it's on. Club membership will pay for itself with Insurance discounts as well as technical advice etc. Quote
6carjon Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 Wise words indeed from all. The tonneau cover is invaluable to me. When you park it or leave it outside in the day it stops dust, bird poo and rain spoiling the car. Its relative security is good as it stops people reaching in or more likely things being blown out when it's parked. For transporting your car on a trailer it's perfect to keep it dry and dirt free as it doesn't billow like a car cover does. I use it on a track day. You dont want to come back to your car after watching the other drivers and get a wet bum from the summer shower you just didn't notice ! It lasts all the way home..... Good luck and hope to see you at the next Cheshire meeting Jon Quote
B.RAD Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 Welcome! Widetrack is an unnecessary extra, standard will do you just fine (works for me and my use is predominantly track, so for road you really don't need that upgrade). Would suggest a fast rack if that's not in your list already though. Quote
Thrustyjust Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 19 minutes ago, BCF said: Welcome! Widetrack is an unnecessary extra, standard will do you just fine (works for me and my use is predominantly track, so for road you really don't need that upgrade). Would suggest a fast rack if that's not in your list already though. Having had both standard track and now wide track, I can say I am glad to have wide track. Not only for 3 point turns, but also the suspension seems plusher. I would forget all weather gear for now and when parts dont turn up on time, then the factory will give you a discount for buying them. Quote
CraigHew Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 Plush adjective comparative adjective: plusher richly luxurious and expensive. "a plush Mayfair flat" Quote
CraigHew Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 So I think Thrusty means it makes his care feel like a flat? 1 Quote
Thrustyjust Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 It means it falls through its travel in a more smoother and progressive way with longer wishbones and longer shocks, so dont take the p155 Quote
TAFKARM Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 Did you change the shocks at the same time? 1 1 Quote
DonPeffers Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 2 hours ago, Thrustyjust said: It means it falls through its travel in a more smoother and progressive way with longer wishbones and longer shocks, so dont take the p155 With the number of potholes I've seen lately it will be needed. Roads breaking up after bad weather and more here today. Quote
Thrustyjust Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 Plusher is a term used in mountain bike suspension, so thats where I got it from. From rebuilding and setting up full suspension bikes for friends and competitors. Plush suspension is suspension that will travel smoothly through its designated length absorbing the load transmitted through it. The longer travel you have, then smoother and 'plusher' the suspension will work. By using a longer travel shock, which a wide track suspension utilises, means that the larger the arc of movement by the wishbone will create a better suspension . It is also more controllable on rebound , due to a larger oil chamber . Having been in Westfields where 'people know how to set them up' and find that the need to have the rebound set on max and springs too harsh makes it crap. Allegedly thats what a Westfield should be set up like Its amazes people on how comfortable the car should be 'on the road' and not set up for spinal explosions. Setting up a car sensibly rather than rock hard is actually faster on the roads. It doesnt load the suspension up from one bump to the next because of slow rebound. From 25 years of Westfields and owned early, normal track and wide track cars, I can feel how the cars have changed . My Zetec car, I put rose jointed Avo alloy shocks on it , so not that much different to the latest car I have with pro tec shocks, although the Zetec car was a standard track car. The wide track does feel far more composed on the road and stable . So, before people want to question , then that's my overview on it. if others want to add to it and have the years of knowledge as well, then crack on. At the end of the day , the OP can buy what he wants , but later changing to wide track would involve shock changes ( or adaptors , not as good though) wishbones, brake hoses. If I was to spec a 'modern' westie again, wide track everytime. Quote
B.RAD Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 All good theory, and it's totally cool to share your opinion, noone is challenging that. It's just that other people have opinions too. I'll just reiterate my point of view since it kicked all this off; my personal opinion based on my experience, is that widetrack is unnecessary. My car is very nicely set up as far as I'm concerned, soft spring rates and rebound adjusted to suit the weight of the car and the front/rear grip balance. It is definitely soft and people do comment on this when comparing set ups in paddocks. This set up was developed over a few years of road use, trackdays and competition. Alongside a number of class and "on the day" wins, it set the class D record at Rockingham last year (as well as being the fastest Westfield overall), won the novice championship and still drives beautifully on the road. I deliberately started off without all the fad upgrades so I could learn what the car was like to drive "basic" and then make changes as necessary. This resulted in fitting a quick rack as one of the first and most impactful mods. Then a new set of shocks and springs, then a front anti roll bar, etc etc, but all of this based on how my car behaved to my driving style, not based on internet advice. I have never felt that widetrack would offer me anything beneficial to the characteristic of my car, hence sharing my opinion that it isn't necessary, if you are trying to manage a budget as the OP said. Is that fair? Quote
Kingster Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 I agree with wide track. I much prefer it to standard especially for road use and manoeuveralability (try typing that on a mobile!). Although as Barny says, for track it’s no doubt unnecessary. As for “plush” I find the suspension pretty comfy and compliant compared to some other sporty cars like the Elise for example. Quote
Thrustyjust Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 7 minutes ago, BCF said: All good theory, and it's totally cool to share your opinion, noone is challenging that. It's just that other people have opinions too. I'll just reiterate my point of view since it kicked all this off; my personal opinion based on my experience, is that widetrack is unnecessary. My car is very nicely set up as far as I'm concerned, soft spring rates and rebound adjusted to suit the weight of the car and the front/rear grip balance. It is definitely soft and people do comment on this when comparing set ups in paddocks. This set up was developed over a few years of road use, trackdays and competition. Alongside a number of class and "on the day" wins, it set the class D record at Rockingham last year (as well as being the fastest Westfield overall), won the novice championship and still drives beautifully on the road. I deliberately started off without all the fad upgrades so I could learn what the car was like to drive "basic" and then make changes as necessary. This resulted in fitting a quick rack as one of the first and most impactful mods. Then a new set of shocks and springs, then a front anti roll bar, etc etc, but all of this based on how my car behaved to my driving style, not based on internet advice. I have never felt that widetrack would offer me anything beneficial to the characteristic of my car, hence sharing my opinion that it isn't necessary, if you are trying to manage a budget as the OP said. Is that fair? I dont disbelieve anything written and yes the original poster is asking if the spec is good and what to change. He also sates he wont be using it on a track, so roll bars and competition this and that is obviously not required. As widetrack is, it allows better lock for maneuvering and stability at speed ( obviously in my eyes) , so for a 'road car' I do believe its a benefit that is worth the outlay. Quote
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