" I HAVE RECENTLY BEEN....."For members who just want to share what they have been doing

[Kit Car Electronics]

That's tidy, Mike. You might as well do the edge beading yourself, too- just make sure the screw heads are below the level of the bead

[Geoffrey Carter (Buttercup)]

Have you missed some screws on the right hand side board.

Those boards are for dry lining hence the recessed edges. 

Why don’t you have a go as it’s basically like car filler with some sanding.

Looks very tidy work.

[Valentinik]

Thanks Mike and geoffrey,  yes i did miss some screws, i've since put them in after i took the pictures. I've also got the edge beading on, just no up to date picture.

I did think about having a go at the filling but i know a very good retired plasterer who would do the whole thing for £50, and from what i could see, id need to spend £30 in materials.

 

Mike

 

[CraigHew]

Spending an unreal time on the bog this morning singing Johnny Cash songs after last night's chicken phall

Sweet Jesus......

[Geoffrey Carter (Buttercup)]

1 minute ago, CraigHew said:

Spending an unreal time on the bog this morning singing Johnny Cash songs after last night's chicken phall

Sweet Jesus......

Without a picture......

[Kit Car Electronics]

Repairing a 36V electric bike battery. I've converted 2 bikes so far - would like to do another as it's good fun.

[Thrustyjust]

Not a very good photo, but extension all finished this weekend. Man jobs in the house almost concluded 

[gparker]

It's wildfire season in California. Last week:

[Hemsley]

That must be very worrying. Good luck

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

My heart goes out to anyone involved in these. The threat to lives, pets and if you manage to get out safely, the loss of all those memories should the worst happen to the house and contents...

Fire is a terrible, terrible thing.

stay safe and hopefully it stays where it is while they get it under control, it looks way to close for comfort.

[DamperMan]

I seam to have poor running issues after I start from hot and it’s been sitting for a few minutes. . Slow to start, splutters and won’t tick over.  Or if the car is idling in hot weather for ages it does the same.  It corrects its self after a short  blast.  Mostly it makes no difference but in trackdays it’s more of an embarisment than hinderance.   Omex throttle bodies, on zetec.   My thought has been that maybe the heat sink from the head into the bodies causes the butterfly’s to become sticky.   But once there’s a good influx of air passing it cools them.   Another thought on a similar elk is there’s an air leak which only happens when it’s hot.       Winter tinkering yesterday I have addressed the issue but I guess it might be summer before I know it’s fixed.   I removed the inlet inlets and fitted a full gasket.   The theory being it should insulate the bodies from the head, also overcome if I have a heat related air leak.  

While off it proved a good time to remove the 4 rib pully and replace it with a 6 one on the diahatsu alternator.   Also an opertunity to align the alternator a little better on my home made brackets.  

I now feel inspired to do some more winter tinkering.  Rear bushes from polly to nylon,  and diff from 3.6 to 3.9 , maybe some tidying of the body work. 

 

[Kit Car Electronics]

1 hour ago, DamperMan said:

I seam to have poor running issues after I start from hot and it’s been sitting for a few minutes. . Slow to start, splutters and won’t tick over.  Or if the car is idling in hot weather for ages it does the same.  It corrects its self after a short  blast.  Mostly it makes no difference but in trackdays it’s more of an embarisment than hinderance.   Omex throttle bodies, on zetec.   My thought has been that maybe the heat sink from the head into the bodies causes the butterfly’s to become sticky.   But once there’s a good influx of air passing it cools them.   Another thought on a similar elk is there’s an air leak which only happens when it’s hot.       Winter tinkering yesterday I have addressed the issue but I guess it might be summer before I know it’s fixed.   I removed the inlet inlets and fitted a full gasket.   The theory being it should insulate the bodies from the head, also overcome if I have a heat related air leak.  

While off it proved a good time to remove the 4 rib pully and replace it with a 6 one on the diahatsu alternator.   Also an opertunity to align the alternator a little better on my home made brackets.  

I now feel inspired to do some more winter tinkering.  Rear bushes from polly to nylon,  and diff from 3.6 to 3.9 , maybe some tidying of the body work. 

 

It could also be fuel vaporisation in the injectors/rail - particularly if your pump has a leaky non-return valve as the likelihood of fuel boiling depends on the stored rail pressure during the soak. This would clear itself only once the rail has been purged of vapour which can take up to a minute or so.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

It’s not uncommon to get things similar if the air temp sensor is mounted directly in the air filter backplate. Heatsoak and increased underbonnet temps while an already hot engine is idling while stationary can cause a really big spike in the temperature the sender is reporting to the ecu. This in turn can be enough to trigger fuel and/or ignition compensation maps to kick in, incorrectly, as the ecu thinks the intake air is much hotter than it is.

Some setups seem way more prone than others.

[DamperMan]

 

Thanks guys.  The fuel rail vaporisation is a possibility again should be helped with the insulation of a gasket between head and throttle bodies.  Pump and pressure valve do appear to hold pressure.   Removing a hose days after it has run does cause a squirt of fuel.     I’ve moved air temp sender several times last year without any difference. It is now in the foam rather than the back plate.   I also notice in the map there’s only fuel adjustment up to a temp (a can’t remember about 40!  ) after that there’s no change.    We’ll see how it goes this year.  

 

[Kit Car Electronics]

Fuel vapour handling improvement was a main reason for Ford changing from 2.7bar to 3.8bar in the '90's.