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DamperMan last won the day on March 22

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About DamperMan

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    Advanced Motorist

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  • Car Details
    95 SEIW 2.0 zetec.. zoom
  • My Location
    Milton Keynes

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  1. Powdercoating can vary massively...I've done so much changing our Powder coating in the last few years. 20 years ago with little pre-treatment we could single coat and get pretty good results . All the good stuff in powdercoat has been removed by HS meaning we was seeing more corrosion than I'd like to admit. Naturally in LAB conditions I was told the new formulations are just as good but the reality was they are simply less forgiving to real processes. All steel needs a jolly good degreasing as as you know from handling lengths steel its always nasty. Something like a chassis is too large to go in your typical parts washer. Sand blasting to create a rough surface, remove weld scales, remove sharp edges, the shinny edge of laser cuttings and so on again a really methodical approach not to miss faces/ edges/welds. Chemical etch / Phosphate to bite into the surface. Rinces to clear off any salts left. Proper drying to avoid surface flash rust. Base coat of proper base powder coat. Behaves differently to achieve a better key, and has a lower surface tension so does not flow away from sharp edges in the same way as normal top coat. Finally a top coat. When finished it looks no different than just wacking top coat on un-prepaired surfaces yet has cost a lot more. I've looked at Zinc powder primer options in powder but the reality is the Zinc is locked in the polymer so has little use. It's Adhesion which is the main thing to achieve. Wet paint base coats with zinc or self phoshating/ etching are options but require different person protection, oven requirements etc not over cured before powder is put on the top... not under stoved or the solvents make the powder full of holes. Its not hard to see how a chassis's protection is sometimes not a great as you'd have hoped.
  2. Dampers only slow the movement. If one of the dampers or even both where not working in compression it would allow the the suspension to bottom out ++++more often++++ than if the dampers are working correct. The key bit is more often!... The damper + bump-stop lengths should always be such that the tyres never contact. Naturally it's a kit car and many of the cars are simply different! different wheels, offsets, builds, geometry, positioning of the body etc meaning the contact points can be different. Example... not real figures just an example... If the tyre is catching on the edge of the arch reducing the possible travel by ~2" compared to if the tyre can go up in the arch. Saying there is also 2" of tyre to arch lip to wheel travel then reducing 4" of travel to 2" to carry the same amount of load in half the distance the springs would need to be twice as stiff!.. . That would make a seriously hard ride. It's best to sort out as much as possible the clearance challenges, then set the block length of the dampers and bump-stops to bring the suspension to a controlled stop before nasty contact and then finally work on the ride with the springs and dampers. People like the look of there vehicles with filled arches and often not keen on compromising the look so throw stiffer springs and adjust the dampers up to reduce the rubbing but still it does not take away the possibility. I'm afraid without looking at the car we're all shooting in the dark.
  3. Sierra rear and indeed cortina fronts are m10x1.0.
  4. Some heavy braking works to bed in. But with my mintex 1144’s it does not take much nanny driving before the squeal starts to return. Any excuse of a quick bedding in.
  5. That’s the advantage of real road mapping over Rolling road mapping. I can see precisely what revs and what throttle i’m Using . And with true under bonnet conditions for the engine.
  6. Rebleed the brakes for 5th time, this time with the rear calliper unbolted and orientated around so the bleed screw was the highest possible part. Bingo.. Solid peddle. Win .. happy days
  7. Cars all mobile again and i’ve Enjoyed this bit of mild dryish weather for 3 commutes in the MidlifeCrisis car this week. Lap top on passengers side and watching the wide band lambda gauge. I’m fairly close to getting where I want to be. Close to 14.7 most of my commute following traffic and up to just over 70 in 5th light throttle. Higher revs and more throttle it’s getting down to ~12.5 where it sits fairly uniformly over the Rev range at WOT. There was all sorts of little weak spots and rich spots at normal driving pace. It feels nicer and doesn’t hesitate at certain revs as before. Although i’ve been tweaking for most of a tank of fuel it did 17O miles from not fully full to not fully empty.. so I conclude it does appear to have drunk less fuel. Better than the usual 25mpg... As don’t think i’ve Ever gone that far on one tank Interesting to see how much it does on the next tank as I think i’ll be making very small changes to the map. I’ve really enjoyed tweaking the fuel map and feeling the difference. I started off not really having a grasp of how much to change the figures in the fuel table. But a bit of mental arithmetic seams to be fairly close let’s say AFR targets 14.7 and it’s running at 12.5 that’s about 15% so the number in the fuel cell i’d decrease about the same %. The visual graph is really good to smooth things out and avoid big jumps and changes.
  8. Clearly the clutch needs to completely separate drive from the engine. Cars which have been sat about can get some surface rust on the metal surfaces causing the clutch to drag a bit but that usually wares off quickly. Oil contamination can cause the pressure plate to stick to the metal surfaces but also will cause slip. old tired cables and outers can be less direct acting so you loose some throw. Is the problem worse when the cold? Begining of a drive? Changing down gear does require the synchros to work harder than going up gears. Then the oil warms it gets thinner so the synchros have less oil film separation and work quicker.
  9. That’s quite a lot of extension! You’ll need that with the ‘Mini me’. Yes when digging like that you could find all sorts. Ww2 bombs, Roman remains, covered wells, unexpected pipes or drains.. out of interest what happens to the drain cover in the middle of the extension?
  10. After adjusting up the cable make sure with the clutch released the clutch arm is free and cable not under tension or the clutch thrust bearing will not thank you.
  11. Bleeding the brakes yet again...Sierra rear cortina front, I changed the braided hoses Friday. The old ones looked ok but at an unknown age no idea how good the hose was inside. Anyway 3 out of 4 hoses easy. The difficult end of the rear OS one on the chassis needed angle grinding. Complete system must have been quite emply the time new hoses where all knipped up. Anyway pressure bleed the system twice. The peddle is soft compared to before. I’ve driven it 50 miles and let it stand. Hoping any bubbles would group together. And any air around the pistons would rise up.. Just bleed it though twice around again. No change at all. I’m wondering if the new hoses are a little more expandable with their plastic sheaf over the Brade. So far pumped about 4 l of fluid though it.. struggling to believe there’s anything much else in there. Might loosen the rear callipers to get the knipple right at the top to be sure.
  12. Voting does not feel like i’m Voting for the one I believe on and think deserves my vote... more like voting tactically to prevent the one I like least from getting in. ... oh I feel that Tourette’s coming on again... Corbin you’re a TW*t. I say that about trump... he was less hated than Clinton.. She was very very unpopular.
  13. Appriciate your desire to keep it pure. CVH was never a sexy or iconic engine. But it was a good work horse and could produce power. For pure drivability you could efi it with escort bits. There’s a thread on here from last year about that. I started off with a 1.6 cvh with down draft. Started off with some running issues but once the engine was running right I realised it was not enough for me. You could spend a load on that engine and get minimal gains. When ford developed the cvh they ended up with the cvh16v is a good way to go. (Silvertop zetec) . Same engine mounts...
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