Ianboom Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Hi I'm seriously thinking of building a Westfield MX5 SDV-the wife has given me the green light (although I have to move a radiator this weekend and reinforce the floor joints so I can install the 500+ litre marine aquarium I'm going to buy her!!!), the garage is nearly clear and I've started making a list of tools I need. I want to use the car for the occasional track days, drifting days and the odd trip away for the weekend with the wife. My plan is to decide on a complete spec for a car before the Stoneleigh show, so if the are offering a discount, I can place an order. From then I'll be looking for a donor (probably not the best time of year to buy a convertible) ready to start the build at the end of the year when the nights are dark and the weather is pants! Any advice will be appreciated, If you think an MX5 isn't right for what I want, let me know. Also any advice on what to order and what not to order! Thanks Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy (Sycho) Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Welcome, there's no right or wrong in what you buy, its all a personal choice! Just build it as you want it as it will be cheaper in the long run, rather than changing it later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Not entirely sure how suitable it will be for drifting days, but the MX5s are plentiful so a cheap crusty one should stay cheap and crusty over the summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhett Turner - Black Country AO Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 You probably have not got to finalize the spec before ordering, having a very good idea will help though. I know I changed some things between ordering and delivery. you will probably talk to various club members look at and sit in different cars at Stoneleigh and that may help you firm up your spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onliest Smeg David Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Welcome.... Stoneleigh will be a great time to have a looksee at all the Westies on display, chat to owners and get a better idea on where you want to go with yours spec wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6carjon Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Hi Ian Good advice so far - here is mine My car is my personal project and only does one thing - driving pleasure and a big adrenaline rush for me only My wife came once with me once and although she still married me (had the car a while) she likened it to being on a fairground ride where you cant get off and made some large indentations in the dash with her fingers... If you are considering taking better halves then some niceties such as windscreen, half doors and half hood or full hood will keep the relationship positive. For track days and drifting they wont hold you up much and you will still be faster than most! It depends what you drive now as to what engine you choose. They all go quick but adding weight (second person) has a big effect on the lower powered ones and aerodynamics limit top speed unless you have limitless power Choose a car engine (for road use) and size/spec it right in the first place so you don't waste too much cash. You will still upgrade as there are so many talented people on this site who show you what is possible with cash and their imaginations :-) cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ianboom Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Hi To answer your replies and ask a few more questions (I feel I'm going to be parting with £30 for full membership soon!). I think I'd prefer the standard dash, I need to look at the MX5 curved one though. Drifting wise, I've done it in an MX5 mk2, so it should be ok in a Westfield, I wondered whether a mk2 torsen would fit, but I've read there's a mk1 torsen? I'd planned to by all the wet weather gear, I assumed the came with the kit until I started looking at the price lists! I currently drive a Focus ST, I had a Nissan 350Z before that and also a string of Clio sports, but had to buy a sensible car as I changed jobs! I was into bikes for years and used to hill climb them but gave up riding 2 years ago. To be honest, I drive like miss Daisy according to some friends, but do the odd track day! Are there any items in the starter or completion kit worth deleting? Are separate rear arches worth it? What MX5 is best to buy? I read the 1.6 is lighter than the 1.8 but can come in 90 and 118bhp versions, so which markets sell what. Is the VLSD any good? Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Where to start? The good thing about the Mazda SDV is there's a lot of interchangability of parts from the mk1 through to the mk2.5. Plenty of diff ratios around and all bolt right up. I think the torsen is the preferred LSD but if you were handy with the spanners you could take one of the open diffs and put an Ashcroft ATB in there. 1.6 vs 1.8 is a great question. When I built mine, I went for the 1.8 because it had more power. But, with both engines standard the 1.6 makes a very good showing of itself. When comparing mine and Mike's (Mooch), we found mine was ever so slightly stronger on the long straights but his seemed happier around the corners. It sounded nicer too. When we both had the Westfield 4-1 manifold and induction kit style air filter it was again too close to call. A turbo fixed this problem. If you wanted to drift it, I expect the extra grunt of the 1.8 would be more useful. For road/track purposes, if I didn't want to progress past mild tuning I'd give the 1.6 strong consideration. In terms of weather gear, is that just in case you get caught out in the rain? If so, a half hood and wind deflectors (or doors) would be a good, cheap compromise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin (Mr T) Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Welcome and see you at Stoneleigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Welcome Ian, your requirements for the car is exactly what I built my Mazda SDV for and i don't think you'll be disappointed. My use is predominately touring, however I also sprinted it for 4 years in the speed series and did the occasional drift and track days. The argument for and against the 1.6 / 1.8 engines will probably never be settled, however the 1.6 is lighter and more freely revving whilst the 1.8 offers a bit more torque. In standard tune there really isn't that much difference between them to be noticable. Mine is a 1990 1.6 which with some light fettling to the engine is now making around 135bhp. The lighter engine, diff and brakes from a 1.6 donor will result in a weight saving of around 30kg compared to an equivalent 1.8. Any donor for a Mk1 through to M2.5 can be used although the VVC cars may be tight with bonnet fit. If going for a 1.6 avoid the automatics which were detuned with lower compression pistons and cams, the Mk1 was also detuned in 1994 when the released the 1.8 so as to give a greater perfomance gap to the 1.8. The Mk2's had almost standard power again but you loose a little because of the CAT etc (110bhp for a mk2 compared to 115bhp for a mk1). For differentials IIRC the Mk1 1.6 had a 6" crownwheel and the 1.8 was 7". After 1995 they all used the larger diff. The smaller diff limits your choice to either an open diff of the Viscous LSD (VLSD) both of which would normally be a 4.3 ratio whilst with the larger diff these were available either as an open diff, Torsen LSD and the Tonsig? Fuji. Ratio's typically were 4.3 for a 5-speed 1.6, 4.1 for the 1.8 and 3.6 and 3.9 for the 6-speed transmission. In a Westfield the standard ratios and gearing work well, however if tuning the engine its worth changing to a different diff ratio, 3.6 or 3.9 on a 1.8 and 3.9 or 4.1 for a 1.6 depending on the level of tune. Diffs can be swapped at later date if you upgrade, however if swaping from the smaller diff you will also need a different prop and shafts. I'm sure there's loads I've forgotten but if you're at Stoneleigh I shall be in the Marquee on Sunday doing meet and greet duties from 2-4pm or catch me after the AGM. i'll be easy to spot in my committee grey shirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ianboom Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Thanks for your replies. So am I correct in thinking if I go for a 1.6 I need to get a on pre 1994 as it has more power? Otherwise i should go for a 1.8. Mk2's I'll need a cat. Will a mk2 1.8 torson diff (these seem the most popular) and driveshafts fit the westie and the mk1 box? Are the detachable arches worth it? Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Hi Ian, for a 1.6 pre-1994 is best although it would be remiss of me not to briefly mention about the short nose crank 1.6 from 1989/90. with this engine the correct torqueing of the bolt for the crank pulley is important as too slack or tight can lead to damage of the keyway. on the 1.6 the pulley doesn't need to be removed to change the cambelt so in many cases it will never have been touched so should be fine. I've owned two of these engines, one of which is in my westfield and that likewise shows no signs of wear or damage. A SNC 1.6 can be identified by having 4-slots in the crank pulley rather than 8-slots as on the later engines. A rough running engine with a fluctuating idle could be a sign of keyway damage. any donor after August 1995 will need a Cat. All the gearboxes are interchangable from the Mk1 right through to the Mk2.5 A Torsen diff (both the Type 1 and Type 2) will fit a westfield. Depending on your donor you may also need a prop and driveshafts when you buy the diff, but these are only a few £££ extra to buy. You might even find another builder (such as me ) who has a spare set in the garage that they don't need and are for sale Detachable arches are worth while if you can stretch the budget that little bit, as they're much cheeper and easier to replace in the event of damage than a whole body tub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ianboom Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Hi This bring me to another question-buy a donor or buy individual parts. What diff and parts do you have? Mk1 or 2? Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 If you go for a single donor you can get an age related plate upon registration. Individual parts will equal Q plate. Personal preference on that front but I single donor will certainly work out cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ianboom Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 (edited) That makes sense! So, at the moment, the list looks something like this; Starter kit with separate rear wings and flat dash and powder coated chassis/susp parts Completion kit Heater Roof and side screen kit Mk1 donor 1.6 pre 94 or 1.8 (gets me out of catalyst fitment) Mk2 torsen diff/frive shafts/prop shaft Clocks and switches for dash (or second hand dash) Wheels and tyres (although donor stuff will work temporarily) Colour wise I want white with black wings, but the wife wants orange with black wings! Anything I'vve missed off Edit; spotted a mk2 1.8s for £500 so would fit the bill. It has ABS does this stop me from using the hubs? Do all mk2 1.8s have an issue with bonnet clearance or is the VVC a later engine? Edited March 19, 2016 by Ianboom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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