car lifts

[pete g]

that's my back up. mark I still prefer the max jax

[SEiGHT_Steve]

I'm still considering a Max Max-installation doesn't worry me too much as I have a friend who installs two post ramps for a living so he can take care of that side of things.

 

The other option I am thinking about is a mid rise scissor lift. Something like this from Automotech:

 

http://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7530d-garage-scissor-lift/

[Man On The Clapham Omnibus]

I'm still considering a Max Max-installation doesn't worry me too much as I have a friend who installs two post ramps for a living so he can take care of that side of things.

 

The other option I am thinking about is a mid rise scissor lift. Something like this from Automotech:

 

http://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7530d-garage-scissor-lift/

That's interesting - it allows access down the middle.

[SEiGHT_Steve]

That's right, it gives full access underneath and allows all the wheels to be removed without the need for a separate jacking bar.

 

Strongman Tools also make something similar which I've seen in the metal and looks like excellent quality but is more expensive.

 

http://www.strongmantools.co.uk/mid%20rise%20scissor%20lift.html

[Norman Verona]

Personally I'd be happy to jack the car up on high axle stands than spend money on a mid height lift.

 

This is what I do and it works OK for me even though it's not as easy to get up and down on the floor these days.

 

I'd invest in a two post full height lift if I thought it worthwhile.

[AdamR]

Central access is a bit of a 'must' IMO, and being free standing means no worrying about floor thickness for the anchor bolts too... so that looks great, thanks for the heads up!

[Dommo]

For those with a lowered floor, wouldn't that negate the option of a scissor lift? You wouldn't be able to get it onto anything structural

[Marto303]

That's right, it gives full access underneath and allows all the wheels to be removed without the need for a separate jacking bar

Strongman Tools also make something similar which I've seen in the metal and looks like excellent quality but is more expensive.

http://www.strongmantools.co.uk/mid%20rise%20scissor%20lift.html

One very important consideration with any of these mobile or scissor lifts and your Westy is ground clearance, if the lift is around 100mm high to drive over you'll have problems with ground clearance.

I have a single post lift in the workshop which sits 100mm on the floor and we struggle with many production cars let alone anything remotely sporty or the Westfields.

[Man On The Clapham Omnibus]

Strategically placed wooden blocks might sort that lowered floor concern.

 

Norman, the problem I have with at least one of my cars is that jacking and then following through with a stand is difficult on even one side because there's only one jacking point per side/end. I use the trolley jack to lift it but there's nowhere to put the stand! A jacking beam might be a cheaper answer I suppose. Jack it centrally and put the stands at the ends. Sadly, my newly acquired trolley jack (and my old Eversure one) have a 25mm saddle socket and the beams I have found have a 300mm diameter central spigot.

 

Oh, and my garage has a 2.4m ceiling so a two post lift is not going to work unless it protrudes up through the floor of my sitting room!

[Norman Verona]

Motco, and what's wrong with having a car sized hatch in the living room? You must get priorities right.

 

I jack on the chassis end on one side (at the front) and, whilst the car does rise higher on the jack side than the other it does go high enough to get axle stands under the wheel end of the wishbones. 

 

IF I'm removing the engine I jack again with a wooden block (this time with the jack in the centre of the front cruciform) so I can relocate the stands along the chassis rails just in front of the footwells. This leave the space clear for the legs of the engine crane.

 

Of course the Westfield chassis may be different.

 

The point I make is that to spend money to get the car not much higher than a jack and axle stand would and then have the lifting equipment in the way doesn't seem a good idea to me. I would think the main problem with two posters is the height of the legs. If the central beam is too high to get over a couple of permanent wood ramps will solve that.

[peet]

Just my two penneth but in my last self employed job as a Vw van restorer my 2 post ramp could handle a 2.8 tonne motorhome at max height (5') with me working inside at the engine end through the hatch. That is a heck of a lot more loading than a Westfield!!

It was a used ramp installed by a dealer and cost £1200+ vat fitted and never let me down. I checked it weekly and was as sound as when first fitted when I changed jobs.

[pete g]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=kHzIkfy3I4w

 

https://www.facebook.com/maxjaxlift

[Man On The Clapham Omnibus]

He's got some seriously well made pads on his drive there.

[pete g]

well if I had a drive like his I think its wise to fit new pads in . :d :d

but I like the idea use inside or out depending on the height of job

 

 

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/faqs/common-concerns.html

[Barry Ashcroft]

The more I look at this the more I like it