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Finished fitting the fuel filler cap tonight. I chain drilled the hole undersize, then expanded it out with my rotary tool and a sanding drum, which allowed for some fine-tuning of the position. I was also wielding the vacuum cleaner at the same time, which immediately removed 90% of the dust.
Check which way round you want to put the cap before choosing the orientation. I found that in one of the four directions, the cap was near impossible to remove from above as the friction was too high.
My cap kit (from MLR) came with washers and nyloc nuts, but the plate has captive nuts and I don't think there's enough thread for the nylocs. Should I just add some thread lock here?
My left top damper mount is a little obscured by the rear tub, so I won't be able to use a socket on this. I can probably use a normal spanner at an angle... Can I torque up this one now or should it be done at the same time as the other suspension bolts?
Before fixing the rear tub bracket I need to make it level, and mine isnt even close; the right side sits much lower than the left. It is visibly bad when viewed from the front - attempted photo:
I used the trolley Jack to lift the RHS and got it much closer to level. However the wheel arches are then not really centered very well around the wheels... Any thoughts?
Lifting the tub in this way also seems to improve the annoying joints at each end of the top chassis rail The height from the bottom edge of the tub to the lower part of the chassis is approx 48mm vs the bracket which is ~60mm tall. I will have to shorten the bracket as I don't really want it to be visible from behind.
Also crimped on new terminals for the S2000 handbrake.
I might well be wrong, photo angles like this are notoriously tricky to judge, but gut reaction is you may have a tad too much spindle sticking through the fillet, if you can loose the outer rubber washer. (Perhaps bed the metal washer on silicon, if you’re worried about scratching the fillet), but also try and space the shaft of the wheel box down as far as it will go.
Ideally, when the splined top hat bushes are fitted on the ends of the spindles, you want as small a gap between them and the threaded bush as possible, and as little a gap to the fillet as possible.
Aren’t there legality issues now with 21’s on the road, or is that an internet myth? I know they were always the go too road tyre for wet and dry use before the R1R came along.
Will have a look at the Yoko 008’s and the V700 too.