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Posted

b******* I swore I wasn't going to try and help again on this after the sarky comments last time, but here goes...

:)

First off, SD card compatability is a bit of a lottery, there's no guarantee a cheap as chips low speed huge card won't work, it's just the odds of trouble are higher!

Class 10 cards aren't needed for ordinary day to day HD filming, it's only some of the time lapse still photography that requires that fast a card. Class 6 seems a happy compromise.

HD filming generates lots of big files, so larger cards help. Fewer issues have been found by those using 16 GB cards or less. Some have had the odd problem with 32 GB cards. (Though my 32 GB Sandisk has been OK)

Stick with the big name brands, Sandisk, Kingston etc, and be very wary of cheap fakes - especially if buying on EBay.

Format, (use the Delete All command) the card in Camera. This does a number of things, including writing the correct folder structure to the card.

Hero 2 and Hero's are in lots of ways two very different cameras that just look a bit similar. Don't assume that what's been fine for one will be OK in another. It may be, but test first!

USB as far as these cameras are concerned is the work of the devil! Try to avoid it if you can; a USB mains charger will give much better results than trying to charge it through a computer. Likewise, a card reader is better for transferring recordings to your machine. (I've found the same when transferring photos off my Canon too, so it's not just GoPro)

Lastly, in a harsh, vibrating environment like some of our type cars, shutter speed is king; high frame rates will cut ally look sharper and more detailed than higher resolutions! (they also minimise the rolling shutter effect that sees horizontal "wobbles" and shimmying on the footage). On anything more than a gentle blat these days, I use 720 at 60 frames per second. Gives rock solid images.

If using an external mic, it needs to be powered. I was recommended to use an Audio Technica Lavellier type, they're only about £25, it's worked really well - I normally tuck it in the boot box, seems to get a good balance between exhaust and induction there.

Posted

Howard20GoPro20Remote20and20AV20out.jpg

this shows you can make it take an audio input

Howard20GoPro20USB20PWR20and20Remote20Only.jpg

thought this might be usful to people i built one for use on the westy so you can put it in random places that are out of reach

Had originally planned to have a go at this, so that I could have an external mic and a remote control. Then GoPro announced the Hero 2 and WiFi BacPac, never did get round to building the wired version. :(

Posted

Ive bought the camera this morn and if thats the right card will pay for it this morn his feedback is very good so cant see there being an issue. :t-up:

Posted

b******* I swore I wasn't going to try and help again on this after the sarky comments last time, but here goes...

:)

First off, SD card compatability is a bit of a lottery, there's no guarantee a cheap as chips low speed huge card won't work, it's just the odds of trouble are higher!

Class 10 cards aren't needed for ordinary day to day HD filming, it's only some of the time lapse still photography that requires that fast a card. Class 6 seems a happy compromise.

HD filming generates lots of big files, so larger cards help. Fewer issues have been found by those using 16 GB cards or less. Some have had the odd problem with 32 GB cards. (Though my 32 GB Sandisk has been OK)

Stick with the big name brands, Sandisk, Kingston etc, and be very wary of cheap fakes - especially if buying on EBay.

Format, (use the Delete All command) the card in Camera. This does a number of things, including writing the correct folder structure to the card.

Hero 2 and Hero's are in lots of ways two very different cameras that just look a bit similar. Don't assume that what's been fine for one will be OK in another. It may be, but test first!

USB as far as these cameras are concerned is the work of the devil! Try to avoid it if you can; a USB mains charger will give much better results than trying to charge it through a computer. Likewise, a card reader is better for transferring recordings to your machine. (I've found the same when transferring photos off my Canon too, so it's not just GoPro)

Lastly, in a harsh, vibrating environment like some of our type cars, shutter speed is king; high frame rates will cut ally look sharper and more detailed than higher resolutions! (they also minimise the rolling shutter effect that sees horizontal "wobbles" and shimmying on the footage). On anything more than a gentle blat these days, I use 720 at 60 frames per second. Gives rock solid images.

If using an external mic, it needs to be powered. I was recommended to use an Audio Technica Lavellier type, they're only about £25, it's worked really well - I normally tuck it in the boot box, seems to get a good balance between exhaust and induction there.

thanks for the input again :t-up:

Posted

dont understand what you on about the card being formatted , :blush: :blush: :blush:

can I not buy a card that just plugs in and works. :suspect::oops:

No.1 son's card is a 16Gb Fujifilm one that he ahas been using in a still camera. It wouldn't work in his GoPro 2 until I formatted it in the camera. I have no reason to believe that it would fail if it were new straight out of the packaging though.

Posted

That Amazon card is the same as the ones I'm using Jeff, not had any issues with them, touch wood!

Posted

thanks all just ordered the amazon card.

was also considering getting a 12v car charger for when im away what was the problem with charging ?

Posted

I've got thes car charger too, handy things.

I use the mains plug in USB charger from an iPad, higher power, much faster charging, and more reliable then laptop/PC USB sockets.

Posted

That Amazon card is the same as the ones I'm using Jeff, not had any issues with them, touch wood!

Thats the one I have as well

Posted

Jeff, I have the GoPro HD Hero 2 Motorsports edition, which comes with a skeleton case, as well as the standard waterproof case. The sound quality is quite good in the Lotus using the skeleton case, wind noise might be more of an issue in the burgervan ???

The card I use is a SanDisk Extreme class 10 32Gb 45Mb/s. As already said the class 10 type is only required for the still cameras multi-shot mode, but you might has well have all the trick modes available?The limiting factor is the battery life, so it might be worth having a spare battery or a quick charger. A car USB charger should charge as fast as a main USB charger.

Happy filming, they are a fantastic bit of kit. :cool:

Mark

Posted

Jeff, I have the GoPro HD Hero 2 Motorsports edition, which comes with a skeleton case, as well as the standard waterproof case. The sound quality is quite good in the Lotus using the skeleton case, wind noise might be more of an issue in the burgervan ???

The card I use is a SanDisk Extreme class 10 32Gb 45Mb/s. As already said the class 10 type is only required for the still cameras multi-shot mode, but you might has well have all the trick modes available?The limiting factor is the battery life, so it might be worth having a spare battery or a quick charger. A car USB charger should charge as fast as a main USB charger.

Happy filming, they are a fantastic bit of kit. :cool:

Mark

Posted

The Mic needs to be powered. The camera would normally be run img off its internal battery.

When I started looking into, the main mic recommended again and again, at the budget end was the Audio Technica Lavalier type for about £25 or so.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343142127&sr=8-1

Posted

Just been to Costco and got a a 32gb scandisk class 10 card for £25. More than eBay but atleast it's genuine

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