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The New Westfield Project - one year on......


fatbaldbloke

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Quick update on progress this week, and the answers to a few technical issues raised previously.

Nothing too photogenic, hence no photos, but I've made a neat exhaust bracket and have the silencer nicely fitted with plenty of ground clearance (bearing in mind this will be a road car), although it will have to come off again to fit the bodywork.

I gave the engine a good long run this morning, set the idle at a steady 1200 rpm. Checked the output voltage from the regulator and it was a steady 13.8 - 14V across the rev range, so pleased with that. Power Commander and Geartronics stuff all working fine.

The electric water pump has the older electronic controller, so more than a switch but not the latest digital version. I couldn't really find out much about how it works, so monitored it carefully. I've set it currently at around 80 deg C and I've managed to get the sensor right into the block between numbers 2 and 3 cylinders. At around 60 the pump starts to pulse, maybe 10 seconds on and 30 seconds off, which is fine as it gets the water circulating before the engine gets too warm, and then it runs continuously at 80, so all seems fine there. The fan cuts in at around 80 which may be a bit low (I'm currently using the standard polo sensor in the rad) but I'll wait and see how it runs when it's used in some anger first. It may be fine when it's working a bit harder.

As Jeff wrote a few posts ago, the oil pressure drops off at idle as it warms, so as expected there!

As suggested in another earlier post the electric reverse does indeed cut the engine. It will have to run off the battery. The battery drop when the motor is engaged is just too much for the ECU and it goes into cutout.

I've bled the clutch and I had a little test sitting on the floor. Good news, the clutch disengages and I can get gears. I did manage to get it moving slowly as well but as I was only a few feet from the garage wall I didn't like to try too hard. I did manage to stall it a couple of times though, this is going to take a bit of practice!

Meanwhile I'm making some flat carbon sheet so I can start panelling out the inside. Not much mechanical left to do really.

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I've managed to get the sensor right into the block between numbers 2 and 3 cylinders.

Did you feed in past the thermostat housing? I think I may need to move my sensor to a better location so interested in the route you have taken.

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I fed the wires in through where the hose joins the thermostat housing, using the shaped bit of foam that comes with the kit. I also used lots of rtv (permatex copper) to help it seal. Removed the thermostat (actually I think I cut the centre out as I recall there's a rubber seal around the periphery that seals in the housing that needs to be left there) and bent the wire more or less back on itself so the sensor went through the thermostat housing and into the block. Using the stiff-ish bit of copper wire supplied with the kit I supported the sender (which on mine is a tube about 3 inches long) well into the block. There's not a lot of space but you can get it in there if you fiddle around a bit. It seems to work really well, pulsing from about 60 degrees until it gets to the set temperature. I've also left a positive feed connected (from the FIA cutoff) after the ignition is off and the pump continues to pulse as it cools down to around 60.

I haven't driven it in anger (in fact it's moved about 6 inches under its own steam in total) but the early signs while I've left it running on the drive all look pretty positive.

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Thanks

Mine is in the same location. Perhaps I'll try and feed it in a bit further

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Quick update on the sensitive clutch. The pedal had been modified to move the clevis point, which is a standard fix to reduce the sensitivity of the clutch, but the master cylinder pushrod clevis had in fact been fitted back to the original hole. So a quick tweak to refit the pushrod clevis in the lower hole, a bit of fiddling to get the pedal height comfy and the stop in the right place, and the clutch is now much more manageable. Simples...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Over the last few weeks I've been mostly working on the carbon internal panels. I'm making them myself using a wet layup. I had to do a bit of development first to sort out the method for making these quite large panels. I'm using a glass panel as the mould, a chemical release agent and a low viscosity resin.

It's quite time consuming, so I'm limited to around 2 panels a week, plus the trimming and fitting.

So, here's the first panel, it's the inside to the passenger footwell. You can also see the battery installation and the cables clamped out of the way.

panel01.jpg

The next one shows the footrests I've fitted to give the passengers something other than the battery to steady themselves against. I've fitted two as my plan is to fix the passenger seat directly to the floor without any runners.

panel02.jpg

And here's the view from the passenger compartment showing all the stuff in the footwell. I'll fix the extinguisher pipe when I have the next bit of panelling in down the side of the tunnel.

panel03.jpg

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The next panel is the one under the scuttle. The photo doesn't really do justice as the flash reflects off the weave of the carbon. Anyway, you can get a feel for the look I want with absolutely nothing on this panel, it's all concealed either in the engine bay or under the scuttle.

panel04.jpg

Here's another couple of views. The fuel pressure gauge is only fitted temporarily, it will be removed when I've had the Power Commander tuned on the rolling road.

panel05.jpg

panel06.jpg

And finally I've bled the brakes, so everything mechanical really is done now. I reckon I've another 4-5 weeks making the internal panels, then I can get onto all the external bodywork and at last it will start to look like a car. Still looking at June sometime to get it on the road.

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I wish behind my dash was that tidy, looks really good

Aidan

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Think I would be tempted to move the regulator/rectifier so it sits in some airflow, mine is bolted to the drivers footwell panel just to the outside of where the steering column comes through.

Very envious of your carbon panel making skills, will have to learn how to do that one of these days.

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Think I would be tempted to move the regulator/rectifier so it sits in some airflow

Yep, that's a fair point. There's a good area of aluminium in contact with the bottom which will help with radiating the heat but I know it's one to watch. I've the option of dropping it down into the gearbox tunnel if I need to.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Fantastic job ! :yes:

Cheers.

Jos

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great project - V envious.... :-) cheers

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