fatbaldbloke Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 QUOTE Its fine at idle rpm but as soon as you increase the revs the unit defaults into test mode as the charge voltage is too high for the unit. My pump just runs at full whack now - its a EWP115. The other thing is you don't really need a power commander as the Busa ECU is remappable assuming you have the later (post 2001 from memory) engine although thats easily sorted by changing the generator rotor and sourcing a 32 bit (2002) ECU. Interesting stuff. This is my first venture into bike engines (always done Zetec's before) so always learning. I'd hope to have the engine running in 4-6 weeks, I'll post how I get on with the pump controller. I guess if there's a problem I could stabilize the voltage (fortunately I've some friends in the electronics department at work who'll help me out). The engine is a 2000 spec, so uses the older ECU. I'll persevere with the power commander as I have it but also read up about the later units for future upgraditis. (I'm fairly conversant with ECU's having built and set up my own megasquirt from scratch on the last Zetec). My plan is to get it tuned at Radical when it's on the road (the tricky bit is going to be getting it through the MOT - I think the option is to wind down the fuel pressure until it scrapes through). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnson Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 I squeaked through the SVA with the fuel pressure wound down,I am sure that come MOT time they will be more interested in the car than the emissions . Mine is decatted now and I have just unified the fuel map and removed the retard setting in gears 1 through 4. I built the ECU interface myself was dead easy and also allows you to read the fault codes without needing the bike clocks (sure you probably know that anyway). I have my first MOT in April so will probably just pop the original can back on or just chat them up as I know the MOT testers anyway Oh yes something else I just thought of regarding the EWP I was originally advised to use the EWP80 and to gut the internals from the thermostat. Don't even bother. I upgraded to the 115 and put the stat back in with a 3mm hole drilled in it which was my original plan. I guess what I was advised would work on a sprint car but not a road car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmick Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Absolutely essential to run a thermostat in a Busa for the road. The compensation for fuel enrichment works up to 60 deg C. If you leave out the stat, it will take ages to reach 60 on a cold day. Also, condensation will build up inside the crankcase if the engine takes a long time to warm up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Appreciate the advice about the water pump. Like most bits on the car I've given it a bit of thought and come up with my solution. I'm going to persevere until I can test it, then if it doesn't work I've some other options now. I'll detail what I've done if it works... Someone famous once said, it's better to say nothing and be thought a fool than open your mouth and leave no-one in any doubt....so that's what I'm doing until I see if it works or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smegablade Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 FBB when it comes to MOT time I can highly recommend The Jet garage in Rushden. Not too far away from you and they will take very special care of your car as they love Westys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Been busy preparing the new carbon dash. I didn't make this one, it's made by a chap called Mick.... First job, after much planning, was to trim it. Here's a detail showing the neat edge trim, painstakingly glued on with superglue (and without sticking myself to the dash...) Here it is with most of the switches and instrumentation fitted. I've gone for flush Savage switches for most functions. (The water bottle isn't part of the dash!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 To ease the wiring I've made a couple of temporary brackets to hold it in position so I can get to the back easily. And here it is from the back of the car (the marks are just reflection from the flash, it looks ace in the flesh). Next job is to complete the wiring (about 2 weeks I should think). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 My aim with the wiring is to make it neat and tidy, with the minimum lengths possible. I don't really want any to show if possible, so it's under the frame in and around the engine, and the vast bulk is under the scuttle. So, firstly here's most of the stuff I've removed from the original looms: And here's the engine bay, hopefully with not much wiring peeping out: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Next is the wiring that will be under the scuttle. There's a lot of stuff here: 12 fuses, 6 relays, ECU, Power Commander, Water Pump Controller, Starter Solenoid, Regulator, Geartronics Controller, AIM datalogger....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 And finally, from the business side: Next, I've the wiring at the rear of the car to tidy up and the battery leads to fit, then I'll do some testing to check it works OK. Then it's fit the fuel tank, top up the vital fluids, temporarily fit the exhaust, and see if it starts.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Very tidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Lovely neat job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thos Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Brake bias adjuster? Do tell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 in am seriously impressed with the tidyness of your wiring mate, fairplay thats how I want mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 Spent a few hours testing today, one fuse at a time powered by a battery charger. Pretty successful really. There was an early issue with a short somewhere in the panel lights where a loose wire filament, probably from all the cutting and crimping was resting across a pair of terminals, which was easily fixed. I'd somehow managed to cross over the feeds to the main and dipped headlamps so when main beam was switched on I had dipped, and vice versa, easily rectified by swapping a pair of leads. And as mentioned in an earlier post the water pump sensor does indeed seem very sensitive to supply voltage with it switching on if the voltage wanders outside what appears to be a quite narrow band. There's a 50-50 chance here, either it will be fine when I get a more stable voltage supply with the battery connected and the engine running, or I'll have to sort out some other control circuitry, or maybe a voltage stabiliser in the controller feed circuit. Other than that everything seemed to work as it should. I was particularly chuffed that the dash/ datalogger and geartronics all appeared to work correctly, and the ECU seemed to power up fine, with the fuel pump supply coming on for 3 seconds before cutting out, which is exactly what should happen (particularly pleasing as I'd replaced all the bike pump circuitry with a more robust relay circuit). So, looking good I think for an attempt at starting in a week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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