John Loudon - Sponsorship Liaison Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Google "Chassis Black paint" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 Did that John and thats how I came up with that paint As you can see the gearbox is going to foul the clutch master. Has anybody removed this lump of bell housing without causing issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammy Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 That bit below the engine is for the cable clutch, so that should be removable, but I wouldn't want to loose the bolt hole above for connecting the engine to the bellhousing, it could maybe be thinned back a bit where it might foul the reservoir connection. Would it be possible to mount the clutch slave cylinder to the other side of its mounting plate and shorten the push rod ?or if not possible mill a bit off its mount face to move it back a bit ( the clutch and brake M/C have the same bodies, so the clutch side will be over engineered for what it needs to do) Only other option is to move the engine a bit -which might not be too hard as long as enough propshaft engages enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 Thanks Paul yes I am happy to remove the clutch cable part of the bell housing but that in its self is not going to be enough. The engine still needs to come back further. I have found a shorter master cylinder which may also help. The photo does not show the pedal box in its proper position at the moment it would be 25mm closer to the box that it is shown in the photo. Even using the remote reservoir and a banjo bolt fitting things are still too tight for my liking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 Right I am now going to fit a smaller master cylinder so will order one tomorrow. So next job weld on mounts for rear anti roll bar. A cross brace was needed across the rear of the chassis to which two mounts had to be fitted. I welded some nuts to the rear of the mount to make installing the roll bar easier when the panels are on. Next job to fit the race tank. TBC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Right to the fuel cell. Seeing as this is a sprint car and only minimal amounts of fuel are required I have been using a 15l plastic fuel cell. It is lighter than an alloy fuel tank and is more upright so will run the car on much less fuel without serge. I can run it as low as about 5l of fuel at the spart of a sprint without trouble. So some brackets needed to be made up and welded to the chassis. The cable you can see next to the filler cap is to earth out the steel part of the filler neck so static does not build up and case a spark when filling the car up with more fuel. The tank was then offered up and an ally cross bracket made to hold the tank in. I will have to get some more angled alloy as I have now run out for the top mount. This will be run diagonally from the top mount down the the bottom rear mount to hold the tank in. This will hold the tank secure and is also nice and light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Matt, use this stuff.. use a good zinc undercoat and then the chassis black. Ensure all the corners and joints are well covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Thanks Norm will look at that. I was wondering if anybody was still following this thread May be I have bored everybody to death Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Wow, small fuel tank. Just enough to start my engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I keep dipping in - good work and keep posting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell O'Neill Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I was wondering if anybody was still following this thread May be I have bored everybody to death more please.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Thanks Norm will look at that. I was wondering if anybody was still following this thread May be I have bored everybody to death I'm watching quietly from the side lines getting ideas and shall be starting my own rebuild thread real soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Wow, small fuel tank. Just enough to start my engine I drained it today before removing it from Buttercup after it's last sprint. There was only 2l left in the tank with no serge at the last sprint. So works quite well to keep the weight down. I thought you would approve of that Adam. On full tilt I can empty the fuel tank in about 12 miles at race pace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mud Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 just read it from start to finish and have one question .Has Mark had a shave yet ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted May 20, 2011 Author Share Posted May 20, 2011 No! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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