o/t - garage design

[Asterix]

Have had planning and build regs approval for a new build single, rectangular, brick and brick cavity walled, longitudinally pitched roof with hips to each end, garage with internal dimensions of approximately 7440mm x 3220mm.

No windows to be fitted (this may change to high level, narrow but wide double glazed units along one side - which will be resubmitted for planning/ regs considerations) Double opening barn doors at one end (what security is suitable? ), am expecting to rely on portable devices for heating when necessary. Will not be fitting a pit.

Ultimate use will be to build future kit cars but for now is restricted to servicing current Westfield and tintops.

Have engineered a situation where normal non-car garage "s**t" (e.g. lawnmower, bicycles, kitchen freezer overspill) will not appear in garage   .

Am expecting garage to be able to be able to be locked from the inside in addition to the outside and be equipped with: -

- Shelving/ racking

- Tool racks

- Hand tools

- Compressor kit

- Engine crane

- Engine stand

- Welding kit

- Bench, vice and drill

- Parts washer with mains water

- Levo Artis ramps (if I get a job soon)

- Beer fridge

- Flat screen TV and dvd player (hmmm...damp )

Am expecting to leave rafters open to half of roof space at least in order to store long items.

Lots of strip light/ portable lighting and mains electricity points.

Am expecting external PIR-sensored lights over barn doors.

Would be interested in opinions from those who've been there before about what I have or have not planned for, where it will all go and any garage gizmos or gadgets that would be useful.

[Mark (smokey mow)]

I find a well placed RSJ in the roof fitted with a chain hoist and stropped around the roll bar invaluable when it comes to lifting the Westfield on/off axle stands.  if you put a pair in then you can get the whole car up without the need for jacking or also handy for getting a half built car off build stands.

Is the only door into the garage through the barn doors?  I wish I'd fitted a personnel door on my garage in addition to the roller door, it's a pain in the if you only want to pop in/out quickly and in winter I loose so much heat out everytime I have to open it.

As an asside why did you go for building regs? at 24sqm floor area it would be exempt when built from brick and block.

[Bryan C]

I built mine similar in size but with the door off-centre so that there was one entire wall capable of taking 600mm wide benching / racking unaffected as the car was driven in.

Much regret not putting an rsj across the garage to take a small engine chain hoist cos those mobile ones are so heavy, takeup a lot of storage space and not used that often are they ? ( fingers crossed mode now I've said that ).

Oh...and mine also has a small fridge for a Stella or two and a small TV.

BryanC

[frubpato?]

Architect missus asks if you have thought about flooring? Also drainage for parts washer and making cups of tea. She also mentioned putting in a roof light velux style which would be better at delivering daylight. She also thinks that having points for slinging a hammock would be cool but I suspect she is taking the p1sh at this point!

[Nick Algar - Competition Secretary]

Side door is definatley a good idea. Also worth leaving acess to the roof as you suggest, definate advantage for strorage.

I wish I had built my'n bigger, but also put in a cavity wall for insulation and foam insulated floor. The better you insulate now, the easier to heat later, when you get thrown out of the house      

Offset door for workbench is a good idea and you MUST put a RSJ beam in for a hoist, so much easier.

[RichP]

How about some clever sorage / hanging space for Westy bodywork (scuttle / bonnet / nose cone / arches / whatever) so you have somewhere easily accessed and safe to put them while you work on the car.  Drives me nuts - mine all come off easy enough but I've no-where to put them once they're off.

[Crazy Eddie]

Check the height you can get away with.

2 years on and I want a car lift but not that the garage is built it looks like the lift isn't really an option which is a massive shame.

Looks like our only option is a pit now which isn't quite as good IMHO.

We borded the whole roof to carry tyres, wheels etc and also better at keeping the heat in but again this hasn't helped with the lift idea  

Had running water placed in it aswell which is a great benefit for the cups of teas whislt deciding how best to tackle the next job

this is a bit minging but the sink doubles up as a urinal      

[Paul Aspden]

Insulate the garage to meet the building regs demands for a dwelling, IE insulate cavity, floor etc and take lots of pics so that you can prove this at a later date.

My thinking is you get the thermal efficiency for your use as a garage, and in the event that you or someone ever wants to make it an extyension to the house then most of the hard work is done & the floor slab doesn't nedd breaking u to insulate it!

You just never know, might as well make it as future proof as pos.

[Asterix]

As an asside why did you go for building regs? at 24sqm floor area it would be exempt when built from brick and block.

Good question.

It was part of a whole plot planning app (extension/ outbuildings/ etc), which did need approval.

Also, is close to neighbour's boundary, could've caused issues with view etc, etc and I didn't want any comeback at all at any point down the line.

[Asterix]

Thanks all for suggestions. Regards: -

"RSJ" - this is probably a stupid q but please confirm that, as BryanC stated, these are lateral (i.e. not longitudinal). What spec RSJ? What wall reinforcement provision did you have to make? Piccies of installs would be appreciated if at all possible.

"Personnel door" - was thinking of not having this and due to other issues may not get one in a side wall, but will investigate whether the barn doors can incorporate a personnel door.

[Main] "Door off centre" - no option here as garage width is defined by house on one side and boundary on other

"Flooring" - was expecting a painted floor initially, and will upgrade later, unless anyone can argue the case for a "better than painted" floor initially (this would hinge on cost)

"Drainage" - have thought about this, but haven't specified it yet - well reminded, thankyou

"Velux/ roof lights" - good spot, better than my solution

"Cavity wall insulation" - cavities provided though am wary about insulating due to build up of condensation on cold surfaces (unless I'm going to get a dehumidifier and then that'll cost in terms of unit and electricity). Will leave cavities empty for now and insulate them later if required.

"Floor insulation" - good spot, will include

[langy]

"RSJ" - this is probably a stupid q but please confirm that, as BryanC stated, these are lateral (i.e. not longitudinal). What spec RSJ? What wall reinforcement provision did you have to make? Piccies of installs would be appreciated if at all possible.

This should be designed, but if it's for an engine, something along the lines of a 125 to 150 deep should suffice. It may depend on the type of hoist you are using. You will need a concrete padstone under each end to ensure the vertical load is distributed equally, rather than crushing the 'breeze block' below.

"Flooring" - was expecting a painted floor initially, and will upgrade later, unless anyone can argue the case for a "better than painted" floor initially (this would hinge on cost)

Post just over 1/2 way down

HTH

[John Loudon - Sponsorship Liaison]

My garage also has no windows but has 4 sky lights instead and they let in plenty enough light. Worth considering as they arte quite cheap - less than £100 each from Screwfix

[cast iron]

get your builder to make the floor float flat (sod the drop for drainage) It will make it superb for set ups

[Jack T]

Just my 2p's worth

Personally i would put as much insulation in as you can affort! Do the cavities as you build it a lot cheaper than doind it afterwards!

You said about having an open roof, i would go for tri-iso (Spelling?) insulation. This is the foil stuff and is excellent, used it my self. Counter-battening the roof and putting it under the felt works well.

Being a sparky I would reccomend some decent quality strip lighting, not worth buying cheap ones it will cost more in the long run.

I would use the new technology 5ft 2x80 T5 micro fittings the are great have them in my garage. Much smaller than T8 6fts but higher output.

Outside sockets are always a good idea for various uses unless you already have some on your house.

Decent alarm is a must with all that gear too, I have my garage and shed all alarmed.

HTH  

Jack

[Asterix]

Post just over 1/2 way down

ta - summer job then