Animal Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Yup. The baffle prevents oil surge during braking and cornering. Westfields are capable of much higher cornering and braking forces than the standard Zetec sump (or a non baffled modified sump) can withstand. The baffle helps keep the engine supplied with oil. You will find it very easy to kill your engine without it, so put it back in. If it's a new sump from Westfield, send it back for modification/replacement. If it's not new, then you'll need to send it to somewhere like Westfield or Plays Kool to modify it for you unless you fancy having a go yourself. Remember though that if there are any problems with the oil (or water) system, damage can occur quickly and it's rarely a cheap fix... Its only the engine baffel thats been removed,not the new sump from wf.Can't see the point of two. Regards. Yellow does'nt work!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Engine baffle? Whats that? Two baffles? If you mean a metal plate (or two) that was fixed inside the sump, then everything I posted was correct. You *will* lunch your engine without it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Engine baffle? Whats that? Two baffles? If you mean a metal plate (or two) that was fixed inside the sump, then everything I posted was correct. You *will* lunch your engine without it... no i mean the funny shape thing that fits to the bottom of the engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Curved plate that seems to hug the bottom of the crank? If so, it's a windage plate. My posting still stands. It wasn't fitted just in case, it is performing a useful function, if that's what it is. In general, if you have a well performing oil system that gives no cause for concern during high performance driving, removing bits generally makes them worse, not better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melt Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 I had the same problem with the windage plate when fitting my Scholar sump, the tray was catching some parts of the sump. A bit of work with the angle grinder on the tray soon sorted it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevip6 Posted October 3, 2005 Author Share Posted October 3, 2005 Hi, I have just ordered a sump from Scholar. Is there anything i should replace whilst the sump is off? I've hard ARP bolts mentioned quite often in relation to the con rod? I'm going to be running with the webcon alpha platinum kit on the engine. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Yup, might as well do the rod bolts while the sump is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelcoombs Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 This place will do you a set of ARP bolts for less than 60 pounds delivered (the cheapest I’ve found) I am assuming that you have a zetec seeing as you are purchasing a sump from scholar, if this is the case you will need to know what type of bolts to get. If your engine has 'DOHC' on the cam cover i believe you need the 1600zetec bolts if you have 'zetec16V' on the cam cover I think you will need the 2L zetec ones (unless you have a 1600 zetec with zetec16V on the cam cover then you will still need the 1600zetec ones) I suggest you confirm this with someone who knows for certain before buying to make certain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevip6 Posted October 3, 2005 Author Share Posted October 3, 2005 Hi, Thanks for the advice, and the link. I have the balck top 2 litre Zetec, anyone know which ones i would need for this engine? Also is it just a straight swap of the bolts already in it? Thanks Again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Yup, straight swap. Do one at a time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perksy Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Hi, I have just ordered a sump from Scholar. Is there anything i should replace whilst the sump is off? Thanks Don't Forget to Use ThreadLocking Compound when Re-using the Bolts that Secure the Shortened Oil Pick-up Pipe, You Don't want that coming Loose.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevip6 Posted October 3, 2005 Author Share Posted October 3, 2005 Thats great, thanks for the advice guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelcoombs Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Hi, Thanks for the advice, and the link. I have the balck top 2 litre Zetec, anyone know which ones i would need for this engine? Also is it just a straight swap of the bolts already in it? Thanks Again i am reasonably confident that you want the 2L (9mm) ones... but try to find someone else who knows about these things or do a search to confirm it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrustyjust Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 looking through my paperwork,the previous guy fitted ARP bolts and I have the installation paper for the 1.6l part #151-6003.Mine is a 2 ltr Black Top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wood Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Its only the engine baffel thats been removed,not the new sump from wf.Can't see the point of two. Regards. I had a fouling problem with this plate when I first built my car. I can vouch for the fact that it does a very important job. Without it I got oil surge at anything over 4000 RPM even in a straight line and oil rapidly exiting via the breathers. Made for a very boring trip to Le Mans that year. My Raceline sump has a flat baffle just under the curved one but the curved one is there to strip oil off the crankshaft and drain it into the sump rather than into the cam cover. Also, it helps prevent the crank from whipping up oil in the sump, aerating it and heating it up. And to answer Justin, my ARPs were marked 1.6 and were fine on my 2.0 MK 1 Zetec. Raceline assured me they were the correct ones. I can't remember what application the other ARPs marked for the Zetec are. Maybe one of the later Zetec engines or the Duratec. HTH Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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