Carl Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 However be careful if you have a live axle. The pipes have to be right in the corner other wise on max compression the prop / diff flange will contact and wear away the pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Top Cat Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 I have just routed mine through the tunnel. I would strongly reccomend you trial build the rear end first just to see exactly how much room you have with diff and handbrake cables in place(mine is an SEiW).Although that is the process I used there were still some anxious moments when everything was built in and bolted up for the final time.Oh, and I used stainless steel self tappers just in case any thing needs replacing in the future. You would be hard pushed to drill out a pop rivit when its all in place. Happy building! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 I have a narrow SE and I put my brake/fuel/loom through the tranny tunnel, there is plenty of space. Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VX2L16V Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 I fitted my lovely tunnel side panels, then decided to route the fuel pipes & brake line down the tunnel But then I'm an idiot when it comes to such things! Anyway, had to borrow a compressor & a right angle air drill to be able to get in there (didn't fancy turning the car over again - done it twice or three times already) Had to wheel it home for power though... ...twice! First lot of clips (like rowers rolloks ) for fuel lines (5/16 copper brake pipe) were RUBBISH so rivenutted pclips all the way along like so: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pingu Posted May 24, 2005 Author Share Posted May 24, 2005 Thanks all, lots of useful replies. Like many of you I did not think of brake pipes until I had fitted the tunnel side panels. May be Westfield ought to take on board WSCC member comments and spend an afternoon updating the build manual.. However, i'm still hard pushed to find a reason to go under floor so will put through the tunnel - my first worry was SVA maybe, but if many have done this already should be no problem. Just need to find a right angled drill..... Thanks Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tucka Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 I'm using a live axle and put all of the fuel, brake and wiring loom down the tunnel. I messed up putting them way too high and the handbrake compensator was too close for comfort. This was after my gearbox and prop were in so ended up running the brake line under the floor. I'd try to work out where everything in the tunnel and at the back end needs to go and then start drilling. Would definately try through the tunnel first though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikpro Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Im purchasing an 1800 speed sport modular build; where do westfield place the pipes as I believe these will be fitted already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Unless they have changed very recently, Westfield run the pipes under the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Pingu You're welcome to borrow my right-angle drill if you want. I had same debate as you about pipe runs but in the end ran them as per WF below floor. Second trip out there was this enormous"ding" from underneath going over speed bump - omigawd - what's broke....!!! The chassis hoop had grounded that's all. I was actually more worried about the sump than the pipes. I shall change the sump before too long (boggo standard Zetec type) but feel less worried about ground clearance now. HTH Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geofff Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Hi, I'm running my brake (drivers side), loom (passenger side) and fuel line (braided cable - passenger far side - but not until after SVA) through the car. I did this on my Hot Hatch racer as well and the 750MC scrutineers thought it safe. I'm not going through the transmission tunnel with the brake pipes because if the prop lets go at high RPM and thrashes about it'll definitely go through the brake lines - then I've got no brakes and possibly a momentary rear lock up as the prop lets go. Worst case scenario of course Anybody have any comments on this? Ta Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Fit a prop guard... If I was racing (as opposed to hillclimbing and sprinting) or a *serious* track dayer, then I think a prop guard would be higher on my list of needs than it currently is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geofff Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Hi Blatman, Effectively we already have that with the diagional bracing down the tunnel. It would probably be better if you had ali sheet on the inside of the tunnel as well. I think this would be better at deflecting a thrashing prop rather than it digging and then snapping through the bracing bar. What do you reckon? Also when is max pressure put on the prop? Starts? I must admit I've always thought hill climbing / sprinting more dangerous than circuit racing. Higher chance of "knocks" from other competitors during racing but MUCH higher chance of an off on those undulating / tight / twisty 'tracks' with tree stumps awaiting you on sprints / hills. Therefore higher need for safety kit / build / prep. Ta Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Mack Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 fwiw a friend of mine had his prop go just before christmas. This was a fireblade engined locost and the flange to the engine had fractured. The point being that it was on the way back from a trackday (so plenty of stress) but actually failed at 80mph on the motorway- not a high stress situation imho. a bit of a brown trowser moment I am told but yes, the tunnel did a fine job of containing it, despite the fact it was thrashing around for the time it took him to get onto the hard shoulder and stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geofff Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 hmmmm, I've bought a flange off ebay for my Blade car Now I'm worried I'm just wondering where / how do props fail? I mean I've seen the Martin Schanke "I twisted my carbon fibre prop because I've got a Cossie Turbo nutter motor" - where the thing is just fibre lengths - looks like a Xmas decoration tube thing. But on "normal" cars is it the bolts or the flange (as per Toby Mack's mate) or does the prop fracture or does the splined connection to the gearbox wear & spin / split? Ta Geoff P.S. Toby Mack - did you see the tunnel afterwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Mack Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 I haven't seen the car but I have seen pictures and I have seen the flange that failed. As far as I know it was a turned down bike sprocket with a flange welded to it. not great construction! The replacement (used on all cars by that supplier now ) is a one piece part. Not much chance of that failing I think. Personally, if the ebay flange is welded I would bin it. Rumour has it that my mates was not the only one to fail.... The pics of the tunnel showed a lot of surface bashing but not real damage- ie a bit of paint and it was ok. The only damage was to the wiring (got a bit shredded) and a chunk knocked out of the gearbox housing (araldited back in) so I reckon he was pretty damn lucky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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