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SVA today and she failed :down: ,but nothing too serious

Exhaust clamp - 'Not blunted'. This needs its edges smoothing, or covering I guess.

Engine continued to run after turning ignition off. This happened after running at speed (i.e. speedo and emmissions test). The engine ran on for a couple of seconds. I'll be speaking to the factory about this one.

Uninsulated terminals on starter motor. They want to see plastic caps over the terminals.

Brake pipe feeding rear end too close to CV joint. Pipes installed on mine by factory. Hopefully I can just bend them a little to provide enough clearance.

Rear brakes unbalanced. Greater than 25% difference. This could just be bedding in, but I'll need to take a closer look.

All in all it went quite well, with several compliments from the examiner, especially when he drove it round the yard.

The speedo was 'spot on' so the calculation for the Smiths clocks was okay.

Emmissions :0 , first test was a fail. He then ran a second test which included a 3min warm up (for the cat). All was then fine and a pass.

Head light adjustment was not far off, a slight tweek and all was good.

(If you read this Mark, I'll call you tomorrow to discuss some of the above points).

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Brake pipe feeding rear end too close to CV joint. Pipes installed on mine by factory. Hopefully I can just bend them a little to provide enough clearance.

That's a new one.

Hopefully easily fixed as you say.

Should mean a retest and pass pretty soon. Good luck

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Do you have a heat shield on the exhaust?

If not, it's a sure fire way of getting over the clamp radiusing problem, and i know where you can lay your hands on one.

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:(  wot have you got to do to pass!

Rear brakes unbalanced. Greater than 25% difference. This could just be bedding in, but I'll need to take a closer look

I think you should check the yellow book from DVLA on this one.  I had a friend get caught with this with his DAX a few weeks ago.  Fortunately he had my DVLA manual with him.  The inspector checked it and found that the right to left brake balance only applies to lorries!

If you haven't got the DVLA Manual then I would suggest you get it as it costs less than a retest.

Uninsulated terminals on starter motor. They want to see plastic caps over the terminals.

I don't think mine had them. but not a bad idea.

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SVA today and she failed :down: ,but nothing too serious

Brake pipe feeding rear end too close to CV joint. Pipes installed on mine by factory. Hopefully I can just bend them a little to provide enough clearance.

A pic would be good if you have one of this problem.  How, exactly are either of them supposed to hit each other?

The solid pipe is either securely fixed or it isn't, yours must be otherwise it would fail on that.  If it's securely fixed then it ain't going to move nearer to the CV.

CV joints don movethe boot and shaft do but there's surely no way your solid pipe goes anywhere near that part is there?

confused Mike

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Uninsulated terminals on starter motor. They want to see plastic caps over the terminals.

How strange. My examiner only mentioned the oil sender terminals where there is next to no current flowing, he didn't mind the possibility of shorting out on the starter terminals.

Similarly with the front exhaust clamp, my examiner was a real ball breaker but still let that pass without having to blunt it.

Well done all the same, less than a couple of days to put that lot right, is your retest booked?

Stevo

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Thanks guys,

It just highlights the defferences with the whole thing between test centres. I guess you've just have to role with it as it's not worth trying to argue too much.

My biggest concern is the run on, which was a complete surprise and left me a little red faced :blush: although it did behave itself later in the test ???

All the other stuff will just take a couple of hours or so to remedy (assuming the brakes issue is just bedding in).

As a note on brakes I bought an 'Ezee-bleed' kit on Saturday as I was unhappy with the feel of the pedal. It was brilliant and the pedal is now really firm as it should be (with 4 pots on front). A definate recommendation for £18 :t-up:

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Re The engine running on, is it a duratec? I had my sva today  and mine did the same but only when it had been running on the rollers with no air flow through the rad (it's never done it before). could it be because the engine is getting a bit hot? The test examiner didn't fail mine for it so I think you were very unlucky there. Best of luck with the re test.

 :t-up:  :t-up:

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By running on I assume that you meant that the engine did not appear to immediately respond to switching off the ignition rather than a problem with detonation.

It may have changed now but on early Westfields you got current feedback from the engine cooling fan and the hearter fan which caused the engine to run on even when the ignition was switched off.  If your car had just been run and was very hot the radiator fan was probably operating.

Get it hot again and disconnect the fan and then see if it still happens.  Maybe worth a try.

Keith

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Thanks Redcar, that's really useful to know :suspect:

I've spoken to the factory and they have suggested that it could be the feed back from the fan as well. I'll try this out tonight. If I run it until the fan kicks in and then turn off, it should run on if that's the cause ???

If not then  :0

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Back from a week away!

Tough M8. Seems on average most fail on first SVA, that's what I'm working on anyway.

Can you give any details on front exhaust clamp, not too sure what can be done about it, bits of foam would melt.....

I have twisted mine round to be as benign as I thought possible but how can you put a satisfactory radius on it?

Kerry S

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On the Exhaust front, try lateral thinking - exhaust heat wrap stuff from the exit in the bodywork all the way down to the front of the silencer, covers all those nasty edges on brackets, Lambda bosses and what have you. It seems to have worked for a few people now. And when your through SVA, just sell the bandage stuff on - thats how I bought mine!  :D
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I asked the examiner about the front exhaust clamp yesterday I had filed off the edged to a radius.  He said it was not applicable because it was less than 5mm high.
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For info my understanding is that anything that protrudes more than 5mm must have a 2.5mm radius, where as anything that protrudes more than 1.5mm must be 'blunted'.

The front exhaust clamp in my case failed because of the 'edge' on the ring itself was not blunted enough. The bolt and lambda sensor were not an issue as they are on the inside.

What I have now done is to run a grinder around the clamp ring (after taking it off  :p ) so as to radius the edge. Unfortunately this also removed the anodising which would mean that it would go rusty pretty quickly, so I've sprayed it with some black smoothrite (which matches the body colour).

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