james grayley Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 plastic p clips in a variety of sizes available from maplin electronics - check on google. I used metal and rubber versions which came from europaspares i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VX2L16V Posted February 19, 2005 Author Share Posted February 19, 2005 sorry James, I meant the 'fuel clips' aka special jubilee clips for fuel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedricTheBrave Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 Don't use jublilee clips for the joints they will probably fail you on SVA for that use proper fuel line clamps they are similar to jubilee clips but pass SAV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VX2L16V Posted February 20, 2005 Author Share Posted February 20, 2005 Any ideas where I can get some though please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedricTheBrave Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 Find the hose clips section blimey and they are NATO approved does that meen they are bomb proof ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VX2L16V Posted February 20, 2005 Author Share Posted February 20, 2005 Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hilux Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I have *attempted* to solder 8mm olives onto the ends, I think I've done the right thing Looks erm how can I put it A MESS but should do the job? will I still need fuel clips & if so where can I get them from please? I dont mean to be a pain but it needs to do more than be a mess, it needs to be perfect not "should do the job" and if you`ve "attempted" something then it is not given that it is correct and you clearly are not sure........ ................are you? Ahem, this is a `kin FUEL line with highly volatile fluid under pressure.............still, its your life................ Note that you should `braze` copper if it is subject to vibration as solder work hardens and fails. No offence, I`m concerned that its done right thats all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Mack Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 but we are only talking about putting an olive on the end of a pipe to stop a rubber pipe pulling off aren't we? So it doesn't have to seal to anything and should not have any particular stress on it. Assuming "a bit of a mess" means too much solder blobing about then I don't see a problem. If "a bit of a mess" means dry joint or not enough of a joint then I would think twice. Personally I think I would (will! ) use a flaring tool though...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VX2L16V Posted February 25, 2005 Author Share Posted February 25, 2005 I dont mean to be a pain but but it needs to do more than be a mess Thought so you clearly are not sure........ ................are you? Ahem, this is a `kin FUEL line with highly volatile fluid under pressure.............still, its your life................ Having broken my tintops gear linkage last night on the way home & having admitted soldering exploits to local friendly mechanics on arrival & having seen the looks of concern upon their faces... I've decided to saw off the olives & get said local friendly mechanics to flare the ends of the pipes! Yes it really did look that iffy, if I'm daft enough I might take some photos for "how not to do it reference"! Note that you should `braze` copper if it is subject to vibration as solder work hardens and fails. I thought it was a bit tricky No offence, I`m concerned that its done right thats all None taken Hilux & thank you for helping me reach the right conclusion... I was trying to follow advise but having had a go I'll be getting an adult to do it properly. Local friendly mechanic did say If the rubber hose is a tight fit over the copper you shouldn't need to flare it, a hose clip should hold it on fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Mack Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 If the rubber hose is a tight fit over the copper you shouldn't need to flare it, a hose clip should hold it on fine... I would trust this for low pressure stuff (carbs) but tight hoses have a way of working loose and 50psi can spray a lot of fuel if it comes off...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hilux Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 only talking about putting an olive on the end of a pipe to stop a rubber pipe pulling off aha.......... Use a `yorkshire` straight connector capillary fitting. Simply solder to the pipe end on one end only. This is easier than soldering on an olive. Worked fine for me when teeing in water bleed hoses. If soldering ensure pipe is secure so as not to weaken the joint. This will prevent you having to `flare` the pipes. If you`re near north herts bring it to me and I`ll sort it for you (solder or flare) HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick A Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 does the central heating type microbore stuff go through the SVA it is marked with a british standard but does that mater on the pipe i know it matters for the hose it's a lot cheaper about £6 for 10m roll just bean quoted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hilux Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 This may be of use so might this I found this below also.............note that joints MUST be considered as a lot weaker. Bursting Pressures Subjecting tube to internal hydraulic pressures will result in stress half as much longitudinally as it is circumferentially. Hydraulic failure, therefore, usually takes the form of a longitudinal fracture, i.e. at right angles to the stress. Bursting pressures of heavy duty tubes are difficult to calculate. However, in the case of lighter and thinner wall tubes, a figure for bursting pressure can be derived from a formula utilising the relationship between circumferential or hoop stress to the dimensions of the tube, as in: Pressure = 2 x Hoop Stress x Thickness over Bore + Thickness By inserting the UTS value for the tube into this formula, the approximate bursting pressure can be calculated. Est. BP in psi Est. BP in psi 1/8” od x 22swg 18,100 4mm od x 0.6mm 11,060 3/16” od x 22swg 10,950 4mm od x 0.6mm 11,060 3/16” od x 20swg 14,855 4mm od x 1.0mm 20,900 1/4" od x 22swg 7,920 5mm od x 0.8mm 11,900 1/4" od x 20swg 10,210 6mm od x 0.8mm 9,650 1/4" od x 18swg 14,900 6mm od x 1.0mm 12,785 1/4" od x 16swg 21,580 8mm od x 0.8mm 6,970 5/16” od x 22swg 6,170 8mm od x 1.0mm 9,120 5/16” od x 20swg 7,890 10mm od x 0.8mm 5,450 5/16” od x 18swg 11,380 10mm od x 1.0mm 7,090 5/16” od x 16swg 16,150 10mm od x 1.2mm 8,550 3/8” od x 22swg 5,060 12mm od x 0.8mm 4,480 3/8” od x 20swg 6,455 12mm od x 1.0mm 5,800 3/8” od x 18swg 9,200 12mm od x 1.2mm 6,920 3/8” od x 16swg 12,900 15mm od x 1.0mm 4,480 1/2" od x 20swg 4,720 1/2" od x 18swg 6,600 1/2" od x 16swg 9,200 5/8” od x 20swg 3,800 5/8” od x 16swg 7,155 3/4" od x 20swg 3,160 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VX2L16V Posted February 27, 2005 Author Share Posted February 27, 2005 Thanks for replies & (jim) hilux thanks for offer to fix it for me! Should be ok I think after a bit of filing! I can't look at that table above - it hurts my (already hurting) head!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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