Blatman Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Well said Dave. It was looking much like they'd all assumed it's a plate diff when it could very well be an ATB. And for the sake of clarity, and ATB requires no "setting up", unlike a plate type LSD which needs alterations to the ramp angles and pre-loads to get it to work acceptably in a Westfield... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firecracker Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 Thanks guys. Pretty sure the driving style is OK. If I go cannon balling into a corner I get mass oversteer. Its the lower speeds on tight corners where I really notice the understeer. I like to enter a corner slowly and push the car harder through the corner to provoke its limits, rather than having to fly into it and try and learn it all before I end up in a ditch !! I wanna hillclimb the westie so I've got the lesson booked at Prescott hillclimb track in the summer. I want to go in to that with a lot more confidence so I can make the most of it. Just been out and bought a new tyre pressure guage so I'll check those in a sec.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 I think you'll find that we all suffer understeer in second gear corners when powering on. Curborough, anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firecracker Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 OK tyre pressures slightly down if anything at about 14psi. Don't think thats enough to mess up handling that much is it? If I change the ride height does this alter the geometry. I've not really done any suspension/steering setting up before. Today I have realised I know nothing about my car!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 You'd be surprised. Small differences can make a significant difference, mostly because the cars are so light. Yes changing the ride height will alter the geometry, by if you are only making small changes, it won't be critical. If you go for a ride height change, don't go up or down more than about 1cm at a time... What are the shocks set to? Are they adjusted to an even number of clicks each side on the damping setting. Are the tyres wearing evenly? Has the tracking be checked recently? Same for camber... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Stanton Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 and...................... get yourself a notebook and ensure you mark all changes down - so you can return to a base datum setting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Someone hasn't read everything that's been written so far, have they Mr Stanton? 3/10 See me after... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Stanton Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 read what Please not anymore detention and lines Eve'nin Mr B will you and BlatBros be at Autosport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custardtart Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 If you have CR28's then don'y go as low as 14psi. I've raced on them and they are excellent tyres. They really should run at 22-24 depending on how wet it is. (wet-24,dry-22). You can always call Avon for advice on this. Also, buy a book on suspension set up, it's not too difficult and has already been stated here the softer or lower then the less understeer or oversteer are the main rules and the best starting place but if you alter the front it will have an effect on the rear too. You can also begin to look at castor/camber & roll centres in time but don't worry about making it perfect instantly, it will take time and patience to try all the possible permutations. Your racing friend should be very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 will you and BlatBros be at Autosport Nope. There won't be any bargains, and there'll be virtually nothing new (that's relevant to either of our needs) to see... again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firecracker Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 Just blown the tyres up to 22 PSI Tried it once, its better but still not how I want. Ride height is next. Its bl**** raining now though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custardtart Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 Do you know what spring rates you have? You could start off with a ride height of 7" front and 8" rear if it's road use and work down, however for the road I wouldn't really recommend less than 5" front and 6" rear. On track I use 3" front and 3.5" rear. (all with a driver seated and car fuelled) See how you go with this and then look at what wheel camber and castor you have, this can have a huge effect on grip/handling/steering feel but get the ride height sorted next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 You could start off with a ride height of 7" front and 8" rear if it's road use and work down Forgive me for barging in , but I was lead to believe the front ride height should be set so that the chassis frame was in horizontal alignment with the track rod end centre , so the car will not suffer from Bump Steer ? this would set the front RH and then the RRH should be a little higher to give a tad of oversteer ? could be wrong though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartMackay Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 Still reckon your tyre pressures are still a bit high, try under 20 psi. FWIW I run 20 psi front and 18 psi rear...dropping the tyre pressure transformed ride and handling on road for me. Have since gone for softer front springs, AVOs all round and ARBs front and rear now with toe set to zero/ slight toe in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custardtart Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 Forgive me for barging in , but I was lead to believe the front ride height should be set so that the chassis frame was in horizontal alignment with the track rod end centre , so the car will not suffer from Bump Steer ? this would set the front RH and then the RRH should be a little higher to give a tad of oversteer ? could be wrong though No worries, I was just trying to keep things simple. In a track car then it's more important to have spot on handling but on the road it's gonna be a bit of a compromise with not grounding out the sump etc unless you want to get into replacing shocks, springs etc and can match it all up perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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