Dracoro Posted March 17, 2004 Author Share Posted March 17, 2004 Certainly not wheelspin! tends to be more apparent at low revs just after you let the clutch out and you notice it a tiny bit at higher revs. Probably take it to a garage to look at on saturday to be sure. Be handy to go out in another VX 2.0 to find out how fast it 'should' accelerate in case it's just my imagination. Anyone kind enough to give me instructions as to how to test the release mechanism etc? I'm not afraid to tinker under the bonnet but like to know what I'm doing before I try!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 OK, Dracoro, it's not wheelspin - not knowing how au fait you are, the question had to be asked. If the clutch "bite point" is close to the top of the pedal's travel then you might need to put a bit of slack into the system by either letting out the cable a bit (if that's the type), or with another adjustment mechanism specific to the design of clutch. My Pinto/Type 9 set-up has a return spring on the pedal (pendant, not floor mounted) and the more powerful clutch spring itself. If you press the pedal with your hand, you can feel the little bit of free movement against the pedal spring before the clutch release bearing makes contact with the diaphragm spring of the clutch. That's an ideal situation. If the clutch bites at a point roughly midway between top and bottom of the travel of the pedal and it still seems to slip, then you could well have a real problem. To test the condition of a clutch in a normal road-going tin-top, you can drive along at about 30 or 40 in fourth, press the accelerator to the floor then, very briefly, dip the clutch and release it suddenly. The idea is to let the revs rise a thou or so and to then ask the clutch to drag the engine speed back down. A good clutch will slip a bit and pull the revs down gently, or bite violently. A clutch on its last legs will fail to bring the engine speed down much or at all - the revs will stay too high and, as the clutch heats up, rise steadily. Release the throttle pedal before the cabin fills with smoke! This test in a Westfield might be risky 'cos you could end up fishtailing with wheelspin - real this time, not theoretical! Nevertheless, in fifth at about 40 on a dry (empty) road there shouldn't be too much of a problem and the clutch will have to work hard to pull the revs down. Just as a final thought, the friction plate might be contaminated with oil if the rear oil seal on the crank is leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oioi Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Another thought: if the speedo shows a speed increase when the revs rise, it's wheelspin. If the speedo remains at the same reading and the revs go up significantly, it's the clutch. only if the speedo is driven off the drive train. mines on the front wheel, which is disapointing as i used to enjoy being virtually stationary with the speedo reading 60 anyone got some new tyres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 That's right, oioi, of course. I was forgetting that some use that system. Nevertheless, dracoro is confident it's not wheelspin anyway so mine is a SABU (self-adjusting balls-up) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Loudon - Sponsorship Liaison Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 What sort of power does your engine have and friction plate material / clutch cover are you using? Maybe you need an uprated spring pressure for the clutch cover. My old X/Flow (165bhp) used to have the symptoms that you describe before I swapped the near standard clutch for a decent uprated clutch plate and cover. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracoro Posted March 17, 2004 Author Share Posted March 17, 2004 Thanks for replies. I'll try the tests you outlined. Not sure what friction plate material/clutch cover is. engine is producing 190 horses. Anyone venture a guess to how much a new clutch 'should' be for this engine? Also, where should I get it checked out (and fixed if need be)? Mr Clutch is nearby, worth a visit? I'm in croydon area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 I'd be VERY chary about going to a pile it high and sell it cheap clutch workshop! You need a careful and sympathetic motor engineer, not a school leaver. Just my cynical and humble opinion, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracoro Posted March 17, 2004 Author Share Posted March 17, 2004 Just taken it out for a little ride. I did all the tests you suggested and it seemed fine. Come to think of it, I'm not sure if it slips at all. Only maybe possibly at higher revs under full acceleration but maybe that's my imagination?? The only difference is that last night when I went out in it, I had a mate in the car with me. Possibly making a difference? It was also the first time in 10 days that it had been driven too. I'd still like to check if the release mechanism etc. is working correctly. I'll hopefully be at the next Surrey meet so maybe someone else who knows the VX 2.0 will be kind enough to come out in it and tell me if it's all as it should be. I just wanna be sure that all 190 horses are getting to the wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perksy Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Good idea to go to the Local Meet, take a couple of owners out with you and let them give a second opinion. Any New car takes a bit of getting used to and at first... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 If it's a cable clutch, make sure the areas where the inner meets the outer are clean. Oil is more viscous when it's cold, and oil/gunk/crud on the cable will make it's return to it's resting point harder when cold than whem warm. I've had many a bike clutch cable demonstrate slippage symptoms, and 5 mins with a toothbrush and some WD40/brake cleaner was all that was needed.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Good point, Blatman. My clutch cable moved to the point where it became tandooried against the exhaust and, as a result, the nylon cable coating melted. Only when it cooled, and the nylon set again, did the drag on the cable become apparent. Up to that point the molten nylon was sufficiently non-viscous to have no noticeable effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Yep. Done that myself too........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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