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DamperMan

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1 hour ago, Man On The Clapham Omnibus said:

I used 15mm spacers on the rear of mine when I bought some wheels and tyres that had an offset that much different from the originals. Longer studs were needed as only eight turns of the nuts seemed marginal. There was debate on here at the time about how many turns were required as minimum for optimum strength. There was no firm conclusion so I thought overkill would avoid any other 'kill'. If 'blind' nuts were fitted, though, bottoming-out of the nuts was a risk if not allowed for.


I just choose 45mm bolts as the originals were 25mm plus the 20mm spacers so my simple logic was that I would end up with the same amount of thread in the hub. What I haven’t been able to verify is how much was in in the first place but it should be all the way through I think, looking at the depth on the wheel etc.

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58 minutes ago, Stuart Davis (fatblokestu) AO - Devon & Somerset said:


I just choose 45mm bolts as the originals were 25mm plus the 20mm spacers so my simple logic was that I would end up with the same amount of thread in the hub. What I haven’t been able to verify is how much was in in the first place but it should be all the way through I think, looking at the depth on the wheel etc.

That makes complete sense, exactly how I would have thought it through myself if I were fitting them to my Westfield Stuart 👍

 

My Jag ones were specific to the model of car, made by Direnza. They really are excellent quality I have to say. 

 

https://www.direnza.co.uk/product-category/wheel-spacers/

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It's one example where bolts score over studs and nuts, of course. The only real drawback with bolts is with heavy wheels and trying to align the holes in the wheel with the hub holes. 

Something like these  will make this part much easier than getting a damaged back and a hernia fitting wheel to a hub with no rotational registers such as studs provide.

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20 hours ago, Man On The Clapham Omnibus said:

It's one example where bolts score over studs and nuts, of course. The only real drawback with bolts is with heavy wheels and trying to align the holes in the wheel with the hub holes. 

Something like these  will make this part much easier than getting a damaged back and a hernia fitting wheel to a hub with no rotational registers such as studs provide.

Yes I agree totally. Great idea that too!

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20 hours ago, Man On The Clapham Omnibus said:

It's one example where bolts score over studs and nuts, of course. The only real drawback with bolts is with heavy wheels and trying to align the holes in the wheel with the hub holes. 

Something like these  will make this part much easier than getting a damaged back and a hernia fitting wheel to a hub with no rotational registers such as studs provide.

 

I got one of those and they are very helpful - especially for the 19" wheels on our X3 which seem to weigh about 50kg 😊

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1 minute ago, Stuart said:

 

I got one of those and they are very helpful - especially for the 19" wheels on our X3 which seem to weigh about 50kg 😊

At my age all wheels feel like 50kgs 😂

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5 hours ago, Flying Carrot Steve said:

Yes I agree totally. Great idea that too!

 

Its standard equipment in Alfa Romeos (at least in 156 and 166) . Great tool.

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In an incredible act of automotive sleuthing 🕵️😉, I tracked down an oil leak which was from one connection to my oil cooler.

 

IMG_8127.thumb.jpeg.d9af6965fb989964cff66cd2d125f416.jpeg

 

 

After an equally fine piece of diagnosis at our meet last night, Malcolm @Wessex pronounced ‘Stu, your oil cooler is f****d!’ 🤣

 

IMG_8080.thumb.jpeg.f2785cb1382c5b4625eb93c35480f1a3.jpeg
 

IMG_8107.thumb.jpeg.08ef3c01e40884dfb8ac3e3a2edddb4e.jpeg

 

‘Nuff said, replacement ordered and hopefully will be fitted this weekend so I’m up and running again.

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Sorted. Just need to change the oil filter and fill him up and we are good. It was an almost perfect fit, just had to adjust a couple of the brackets.

 

EDIT Just found the invoice for the original and it was 23 years old, so hadn’t done badly at all!

 

IMG_8176.jpeg

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800 mile road trip with wife & daughter from Staffordshire to Fort William for the BH weekend to watch the Mountain Bike Down Hill World Series.......

 

 

Camping - What a view!!

PXL_20240503_194039505.jpg

 

 

The G.O.A.T (4 World Champs wins, 3 overall series titles and the most winningest rider of all time......) - 42 years old and still at the sharp end!!

PXL_20240504_124925789.jpg

 

sending it into the finish arena

PXL_20240505_131556905.TS_exported_11750_1714915041461.jpg

 

Fanboy mode engaged and autographs collected - Think there's 5 World Champions on there somewhere!!

PXL_20240506_211044729.jpg

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Started the Westie for the first time in about 6 months. All seemed fine for the first minute or two, while I let it warm up whilst sat on the drive.

 

But then it spluttered and stopped as I noticed a big pool of fuel under the front of the car.

 

Off with bonnet, fuel everywhere, including sitting on the top of the engine. So I assume a leak from around the carb.

 

Something to look at in more detail tomorrow. Hopefully just a broken clip or split pipe.

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Sticky needle valve(s) in float chambers. Been there, stunk the house out from my integral garage! 

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Following on from the above…

Just ventured into the garage and turned the fuel pump on. Petrol sprayed out of the flexi-pipe that feeds the carb, so I’m hoping that’s the only issue. Have removed that (to see multiple splits) and am now off to the motorfactors for a nice new one.

Fingers crossed the car will be up and running later today for its debut trip of 2024.

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1 hour ago, Ewan said:

Following on from the above…

Just ventured into the garage and turned the fuel pump on. Petrol sprayed out of the flexi-pipe that feeds the carb, so I’m hoping that’s the only issue. Have removed that (to see multiple splits) and am now off to the motorfactors for a nice new one.

Fingers crossed the car will be up and running later today for its debut trip of 2024.

Motor factors might not be the best place .. many still seem to be selling that generic hose that fails within a year of e10 use. Bite the bullet and go with cohline or gates ethanol proof if you can ?

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As someone who hates doing the same job twice, agree with @joolz, my last lot of of unbranded "supposed" Ethanol proof pipe lasted 3 years... Yes the named ones are more expensive but thats's for a reason - they work.

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