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Cutting Fiberglass......


Ric

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A question for you Dremel owners - did you have a battery or plug-in one ?

Plug in one. The attachments last a lot longer when spinning at their optimum rpm too..... :t-up:  :)  :t-up:

P.s. save yer money and get the cheapo version from B&Q instead. Just buy the Dremel attachments for it as required.....

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First choice for me would be the pad saw and fine blade.

Cut at an angle (around 30deg.) this gives a smooth edge.You can also lubricate with a bit of water,helps the cut and keeps the dust down. (G.r.p. cuts a lot easier than you might think).

If you have to use power then please watch for the dust /fall out. the very fine dust cant be seen but it can damage your health seriously, you can also get splinters which can penetrate the skin easily.

Use a good mask and outside if poss.

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I used the dremmel method when cutting my bonnet but found staying approx 5mm inside my line was the easiest way and then used a bobbin sander attachment on my drill to finish the job.

Tried em all and this is by far the easiest most accurate method. Use the drum sander attachment on a dremmel once rough cut.

To finish off, use ever finer grades of wet and dry and you get a polished edge too. No naff rubber trims required.

MASK AND GOGGLES A MUST

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black n decker power file to finish edges,fast and gives excellent results
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I used a jig saw with a metal blade (ie hacksaw type blade) no chips and a very neat edge. I had to cut around the RAC roll bar in my boot lid and it worked a treat. Also a flap wheel in a drill works very well for making nice rounded shapes in grp. ;)
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For drilling holes, instead of larger drills I use a taper bore attachment.  Makes holes from 6 - 24mm and no chipping at all.

David

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