Jeff67afc Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Hi All..... I have/had a few stone chips around the front end of the black box section/framwork. I started rubbing down with emery cloth...... then used a drill and wire brush attachment....... but ultimately ended up using paint remover and then a power wash to remove the loosened paint (yep, created a far bigger job than was really needed) Any way, I now have a bare metal front end frame section which I've treated with a rust inhibitor. So, my question is What should I use to repaint? Epoxy primer first? Then a primer? Top coat.... Polyurethane? Enamel? Any advice previous experience of doing the same would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy (Sycho) Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 I’ve just brought some chassis paint from buzzweld, I haven’t used it yet but it has some good reviews. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigHew Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 I have POR15, used it on a couple of treated chassis areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 If the surface is pitted and offers a good key I’d start with a zinc coat like Zinga... but if it’s smooth then acid etch to get a good key then the zinc coat. Then an over coat with a chassis black/ enamel. As with any paint the steel needs to be clean and free from oils etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard (OldStager) Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 I was going to post on this yesterday, but figured someone with more skills than me would post and they have, I do what @DamperMan has suggested and Zinc primer ( good quality one though) and then enamel or other suitable paint / spray over that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 20 hours ago, CraigHew said: I have POR15, used it on a couple of treated chassis areas. Did you bother with the UV clearcoat, too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigHew Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 29 minutes ago, Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO said: Did you bother with the UV clearcoat, too? Nope, just the chassis paint...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 22 minutes ago, CraigHew said: Nope, just the chassis paint...... Has it gone milky, or isn't it exposed to sunlight? I don't believe it affects the protection, just doesn't look good etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigHew Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 46 minutes ago, Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO said: Has it gone milky, or isn't it exposed to sunlight? I don't believe it affects the protection, just doesn't look good etc. It isnt visible unless you're under the car.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 1 minute ago, CraigHew said: It isnt visible unless you're under the car.... and you keep it black side down 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 I was kindly given a unused tin of POR15 by @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary when he moved house some time ago. I used it to touch up a few rusty areas on my chassis last year. I've just tried to re-open the tin, as I've been modifying the tow bar bracket on the 'broom pilot's' car and need to touch up a few bare metal places. I must have tried for over 10 mins (concerned if it goes wrong I might paint more than expected). I do recall it was tough to open the first time! However it's certainly put up a fight this time . Hence I strongly suggest that you clean the lid and the rim thoroughly with POR15 thinners before resealing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Oops, yes, clean the rim scrupulously! It sets by absorption of moisture, so you need a good seal, too. This is the reason I buy it in packs of mutiple small cans though, I've had that happen to big expensive cans with lots of paint still in there. Sometimes, storing the re-sealed cans upside down can preserve them a bit longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 19 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said: Oops, yes, clean the rim scrupulously! It sets by absorption of moisture, so you need a good seal, too. This is the reason I buy it in packs of mutiple small cans though, I've had that happen to big expensive cans with lots of paint still in there. Sometimes, storing the re-sealed cans upside down can preserve them a bit longer. The paint inside was fine. It's just the spillage around the rim from the first opening is as strong as a weld! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neptune Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 On 10/03/2021 at 21:55, CraigHew said: I have POR15, used it on a couple of treated chassis areas. I have found Por15 is not great on bare steel even when using their etch solution. have had much more success with @DamperManrecommendations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.